wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Mar 1, 2017 8:09:05 GMT
Huh!!! I thought the radiator was bolted to the engine so the fan doesn't hit the cowling, Chris time to panic . I'm obviously missing something to do with rocking! David As you know the pipe is connected to the radiator one end and the expansion bottle on the other. Both these items are bolted to the same body so there will be no issueof rocking. Senior citizen moment, lots of other things on my mind. At least it proves people do read these and not just look at it. All under control - honest.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 28, 2017 22:07:00 GMT
Since Mr Penguin45 is so fond of sowing us all the carnage he does to other peoples pride and joy I thought he might like to see what has happened to his bonnet. Please note that the bluish/purple colour is rust converted. ind you, as it is such a nice colour may just leave it.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 28, 2017 22:01:30 GMT
Well done, you two. Brilliant effort. Does that pipe running round to the expansion bottle allow for the engine rocking? I mean, I know I'm just the bodywork guy, but I have seen these engines wobble about a bit... As you know the pipe is connected to the radiator one end and the expansion bottle on the other. Both these items are bolted to the same body so there will be no issueof rocking. And the other question for the engine Gods is what size is the thread for the head studs at the block end? I have a little issue I need to deal with which will probably involve a helicoil and a head gasket. Chris. The threads into the engine casting tend to be coarse. This, I believe was a time and money saving exercise. All to do with the amount of load you can apply and the strength of the material. A fine thread in a material can create higher loads than a course thread in the same material so a 'weak' material will just strip the fine threads is over tightened. If you use a helicoil then you can use a fine thread if you wish, especially as the head nut should be torque loaded. If you did not torque it down then there is a great risk of over torquing. Hope this helps
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 27, 2017 20:52:40 GMT
Well its up and running. Just needs a good tune-up. This will have to wait until it gets in the open. Short videoNot bad for idle - still cold though
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 26, 2017 21:04:40 GMT
Latest update. Cooling system now good. Old expansion tank pipe gone as it was cracked and brittle. Now replaced with a rubber coated brass pipe in white (actually cheaper than rubber cooling pipe - I am a Tyke ). Because the servo is directly mounted on to the bulkhead it is now above the fuse - normally where washer bottle sits(now attached to bash panel). Hence going across the bulkhead. Electric cables repaired (extended as appropriate), insulated and new alt plug fitted (did not have one). All self tappers replaced with locknuts and bolts (metric I'm sorry to say). Oiled and watered Engine turns but no spark. Dizzi came with engine but not touched. Spotted fur on points so decided to swap for known good original (when I eventually got it out). Will try again tommorrow. That just leaves the repair (had to cut 1 bolt off) and re-spray the under side of the bonnet. Spot the new water pipe.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 22, 2017 12:57:01 GMT
Think UK is classified as normal/ average as extremes of weather tend not to last long. As for your carbs, with the twins - no PCV valve just the carbs connected to the forward crankcase vent using a Y piece to connect them You can just see the circular oil separator canister attached to the crank vent panel. This is integral. There is another design, later models, that has the separator on the cover. You will need either of these
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 21, 2017 23:50:41 GMT
Might be worth checking the bottom rubber bushes in the front suspension housings. P45. An easy and quick way to check them is to spray them with WD40, its quite a good rubber lube.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 21, 2017 0:41:37 GMT
Hi Nick. I think you're going to hsve to make s few assumptions. Unless the car is ex-UK Forces, it will be high compression by 1973. Highly unlikely that you'll have other than standard gear ratios. Emissions - PCV set up is most likely (flat topped mushroom at the back of the rocker cover), or a hose feeding back to the base of the carburettor are the most likely set ups. UK cars neve used a recirculating air pump. Chris. Have done a little research on this. It is crucial yo get it right. As you have a single you will need a PCV. There are after market ones available. If you have a non original carb, with a 5/16" pipe into it then no PCV needed. In both cases a vented oil filler cap is essential unless you have a non standard rocker cover with a 90° tube. Found this for the MGB as mine has twin cards but gives a good insight. MGB PCV
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 20, 2017 16:59:41 GMT
Hang on a minute.... I haven't got an electric oil pressure gauge! It's a capillary one. Chris. I know, hence I said "no worries"
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 20, 2017 14:07:33 GMT
Taken from BL service manual. Circles show where I have seen them located. As shown on inner wing. Attached to the battery bracket near bulkhead Attached to bash panel facing battery Bottle shown is circular, mine - and a few others - have rectangular ones. Really depends on what you want. Good starting point
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 20, 2017 13:37:36 GMT
"Other half has been done and I'll see about flatting that back later." Oo-eer missus
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 20, 2017 0:41:38 GMT
I'm so glad you used yellow. I'm good at yellow..... I do trust that it's high build primer prior to a top coat? Where was that bit of wiring? I'd no idea anything was breaking up like that. Oh - I'm not an electrician. Never have been. I'm an appliance repairer. Oh, I weld up classic cars as well. P45. Nope, its gloss yellow, plant machinery yellow to be precise. Should give you a clue to who chose the paint scheme. Wire nothing to worry about, it's for the oil pressure gauge. I am having to extend the solenoid and red battery cables. Also fitting a proper alt socket.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 19, 2017 20:36:54 GMT
along with black duct tape. I find that a worrying comment in view of your current project..... Chris. No worries lad, i'm in charge of that. Don't use black duct tape - got grey.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 19, 2017 20:25:49 GMT
considering this car is owned by an electrician, the wiring is atrocious. Well will do what I can to get it working and safe. Getting there slowly. At least we dont have to do things twice with this car. Everything fits so well we only do things 4 times.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 17, 2017 20:23:43 GMT
Have you had the steering column apart.
It is possible to fit the outer tube too short into the bulkhead seal. This means that the cowling will be too high causing it to catch on the steering wheel. ave o look at the spacing for the stalk.
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