wolseley1800
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Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 16, 2017 20:01:31 GMT
The car is now on its wheels. All connected underneath even passenger upper swivel joint been re-shimmed. Engine bay being sorted. Bash panel will be sorted after engine is finished'
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 12, 2017 19:57:17 GMT
Eng mount adaptor. Seen here in action. and backend
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 11, 2017 20:55:32 GMT
Dip stick fine, just removed for painting. Engine bay before. First filler primer. You can see where a previous tart up has reacted on the air scuttle
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 10, 2017 22:38:59 GMT
Front and rear engine mounts acquired. Can possibly bob over on Saturday with more Hobnobs? Chris. Got the engine mounts but no Hobnobs. Interest is accruing especially now. Front eng mount mount on back plate too low. 6mm steel acquired and adapter plate being manufactured. Watch this space Think I have found primary reason for oil consumption. Oil filler cap was air tight so no through flow of air. A 2mm hole has been drilled through to prevent this on new engine
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 8, 2017 14:11:31 GMT
Do you mean the idle ignition advance is 25 degrees? What is the maximum advance (static plus mechanical)? David Fitted the 270 piper to my S. Did a rolling road to see improvement, got 63 bhp at rear wheels. Did some research and tuners recommend the MGB cam as best option. My ignition is set about 25 degrees to allow for the required advance for the cam. That's static because with a 270 cam the S engines are basically stage 2 tuned. The full advance at about 3000 revs is around 30 degrees is I remember right - Snoopy has the tuning bible. I have an early 123 ignition with 16 preset curves. The setting I have is for lower end torque. Later 123 ignitions are fully programmable so may be more suited to your needs. Snoopy also has a 270 but his was set up by a tuning specialist. Think I need to have a good look at the settings when we get the engine out.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 7, 2017 21:43:10 GMT
Sorry, brain is not working but I think you get the gist.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 7, 2017 20:17:11 GMT
Fitted the 270 piper to my S. Did a rolling road to see improvement, got 63 bhp at rear wheels. Did some research and tuners recommend the MGB cam as best option. My ignition is set about 25 degrees to allow for the required advance for the cam.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 4, 2017 21:49:31 GMT
From this to this After a visit from P45 he has agreed that I am right about the chain. Naturally I am, i'm a Tyke(Yorkshireman) and Tykes are always right = well known fact.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Feb 2, 2017 17:06:23 GMT
Hobnobs, forget the Hobnobs - I want shares in the company. Swap crank pullies he says. Both came off no probs except the timing marks are in different positions so now its the timing cover swap. Lo and behold,the new engine has a single timing chain. Well if you want the duplex fitting its a good job your coming over on Saturday. Use any tools you want.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 29, 2017 20:57:14 GMT
Change the engine i was told - simples. Yeh right
Nothing but problems
As we have later drive shafts I think we'll just ignore the groves.
The drive shaft diff caps are not interchangeable as exterior diameter of seals different. Found 2 stripped threads so now helicoiled. Alternator rear bracket had to be changed as well as thermostat, 2 studs and waterpump. Now Penguin45 has to decide, do we swap the crank pulley or get a longer fanbelt. Pulley on new engine is ~1.25" larger diam so need ~ 100mm longer belt. Also will need to modify alt lower adjust bar as new engine has different mounts.
Let you know what happens
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 18, 2017 23:28:46 GMT
There are many reasons for wrong readings Amount of oil on gauges Dirt in gauges The variation in the calibration of your hand Worn parts ect ect ect .......
If you use a spanner and screwdriver make sure you are pressing down whilst you adjust the gap, this helps to take some of the play out of the system.
As I mentioned before, get an auto adjuster - they do help
I personally wouldn't worry
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 17, 2017 21:04:02 GMT
It looks good. I'm impressed with the picture quality, do you have a photo of the camera? David Inside pot4 of the new engine using my new smartphone wire camera attached to PC Ebay pic of my camera. I have the 5.5mm black. Cost ~£8.00 Has a hook and magnet attachment plus a 45° lens (not good as cheap plastic)
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 14, 2017 21:54:23 GMT
Snoopy has confirmed that the ransom has been paid so spares are no longer available
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 14, 2017 21:47:57 GMT
That's what I like about this forum, you will be guided to the correct answer. In the 80s I had a Toledo, 1854 and sprint - at same time. Think I was trying to get the set. I actually preferred the 1854 For some reason I always thought that FWD were 1300 only and not 1500s as well. Looking at photos on google it seems to be the 1500FWD.
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