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Post by charlypm on Jun 17, 2020 19:06:04 GMT
I've done mine with shrink fit casing made for buried electrical wires. Its tacky inside to make a seal. I also doubled it up at the ends too make a clllar to exert more pressure. Been working for several years.
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Post by charlypm on May 4, 2020 17:31:01 GMT
Well, I was afraid this would happen sometime. My front displacer blew out. I changed the hose a year ago, so I know it's not the hose. What is anybody doing? I can't seem to find any around. What are the alternatives? Thanks,
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Post by charlypm on May 4, 2020 16:18:08 GMT
I want and need, but I'm in the USA and probably quite expensive to ship, I'm guessing.
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Post by charlypm on Jan 22, 2020 20:31:11 GMT
Good to know, I haven't taken the bump stop off yet, so I didn't know how they were attached. And even better, I have a TR6 and spare parts. Thanks
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Post by charlypm on Jan 14, 2020 3:23:03 GMT
Has anyone found the solutions/part/picture yet? I really need to work on a remedy for this. Thanks.
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Post by charlypm on Dec 23, 2019 19:36:26 GMT
I noticed my front suspension bump stop is just about completely gone. I've looked up the part # and it seems to be obsolete. Anyone know of a comparable part without too much modification? Thanks and Merry Christmas.
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Post by charlypm on Dec 6, 2018 6:00:32 GMT
Well, I found it. It appears to be a fairly common seal, at least at my bearing supplier, they had 100 of them. Thanks for any help.
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Post by charlypm on Dec 5, 2018 6:30:37 GMT
Hey, does anyone know of what the axle seal into the transmission/diff housing is? Is it used on another application/car? In the USA. these parts are hard to identify and locate. The parts book calls it a 22H383, I can't find a cross reference for it. Thanks.
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So sad
Nov 22, 2017 7:09:24 GMT
Post by charlypm on Nov 22, 2017 7:09:24 GMT
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Post by charlypm on Nov 7, 2017 3:39:54 GMT
Wow! Drove my Landcrab around Saturday with the new motor and the clutch working much better (it had been jerry-rigged before) and what a pleasure it is to drive. Much more comfortable and easier to drive than the Mini. Also a little better than the Austin America. I have a photobucket for it here. I'll add some more pictures of it later.
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Post by charlypm on Nov 4, 2017 16:55:03 GMT
it would be nice to know the original length, I've manufactured an adjustable pushrod and have it adjusted in quite a bit now..
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Post by charlypm on Nov 4, 2017 1:50:32 GMT
I don't remember if I posted any pictures of the car completed. Attachments:
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Post by charlypm on Nov 4, 2017 1:27:59 GMT
The master cylinder may be where the problem is. I think mine is 3/4", I replace the original (to me) a couple of years ago and it was 3/4". I think that my car was altered as the clutch quit disengaging, the slave cylinder pushrod had been lengthened by a piece being welded on to the end. When I took apart the clutch, the T.O. bearing was worn so badly there was no cup left that holds the carbon piece. Possibly also changed the MC to provide more throw for the tob. I installed a stop for the pedal inside on the floor and the seemed to work well. I'm cleaning and waxing the car and will be driving it around this weekend, exciting after several years being down for a rebuild. Wow, I just checked and its been 4 years since I started this project!
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Post by charlypm on Oct 29, 2017 1:42:22 GMT
So I'm back after a long hiatus, I've been working on many projects, house buildings, cars, racing, daughters house etc. As I was completing my work on the Landcrab a couple of years ago, I decided to pull the head and have a valve job done, this was precipitated by a leaky head gasket. when I had bolted the head back down and started the car it made a horrible noise. I pulled the plugs and found one plug electrode mangled. Upon investigation through the spark plug hole I could see a hole in the piston. This meant a large step backwards, so I pulled the motor and rebuilt it. I upped the performance a little, put on a lcb header, the tranny looked pretty good, put in a new clutch. Upon reinstallation and starting and breaking in, I found the clutch would not disengage. I assumed it was not a long enough throw and made an adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder and that didn't seem to help. Today I decided to take it to a muffler shop and have a new exhaust system made to fit my lcb header, 1 3/4" pipe. I was thinking about trailering it and I warmed up the motor and then started it in gear. I drove it around the block and discovered that the clutch was disengaging after about 2" of pedal movement and then re-engaging if I kept pushing down to the floor. This would be somehow overextending the clutch and binding it up. I had also put a longer pushrod on the clutch mc thinking I needed more movement, I'll be going back to the original on the mc. Has anyone experienced this situation with their Landcrab? My thought is to make some sort of stop for the clutch arm to keep it from overextending, This thread shows an arm with a stop and spring, but I think this keeps the clutch arm from receding to much. Also does any one have the proper length for the clutch slave cylinder push rod, the original one from my car had been welded on and I don't know where to start for the proper length.
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Post by charlypm on Feb 9, 2017 6:24:27 GMT
I'm trying to remember what I did on my clutch hydraulics. I think a Spitfire master cylinder is the same and I had to change the pushrod, I think. I'll look at it and report back.
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