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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 20, 2020 13:16:35 GMT
A thread on the Bristol would be very welcome, if you feel the urge.
C.
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 20, 2020 14:01:31 GMT
Nice to hear from you Chris, but wrong bloke.
Tony S
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 20, 2020 14:10:14 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 20, 2020 16:00:42 GMT
Nice to hear from you Chris, but wrong bloke. Tony S End of page 4 - Dave and Andrew were having a natter.  Stripe's looking the business. Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 20, 2020 16:59:39 GMT
Ah. Missed that.
Tony S
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 20, 2020 17:47:09 GMT
When I filled mine with oil (had been standing for over 30 years) after putting refurbed head on, i followed the MGB routine.
I poured oil down the pushrod tubes and back filled the oil feed from the pump by filling via funnel. Easier for me as I have flexible pipes instead of the steel one having had an oil cooler on.
Then topped up oil after installing rocker cover.
oil light went out after a few revs with spark plugs out and coil disconnected.
Worked for me.
Tony S
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 22, 2020 11:44:06 GMT
 4111359C-D846-4773-ADB6-08A7D3DBD89C by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Had to do a little repair to rear seat. Tried with adhesives that purportedly worked on vinyl to no avail. Used this stuff and cracking job. Have to be well prepared as sets almost immediately this weather. Whatever you do, don’t squeeze the tube as the glue is quite runny. Best applied by using a spatula or piece of card. Do not apply directly from tube as it goes all over the place. Got mine from Zoro. Tony S |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 22, 2020 18:58:42 GMT
Looks like good stuff. Scotch Weld 1099. I have made a note. C. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 24, 2020 16:04:28 GMT
I am officially a happy bunny.
Finally got around to doing the tracking and whilst on my back noticed I hadn’t put on the two little brackets between the bumper and the wing. There’s always something.
Anyway, first run since refurbishing the steering rack and what a treat. No rattles and clunks and the steering was the lightest i can remember.
Beforehand i was struggling to turn slow corners and despite my advancing years couldn’t believe that my wife had passed her driving test in Muddy in the 1980s.
I was considering electric power steering, but that’s not likely now.
Goes to show that all new swivels , track rod ends and decent rack bring it all back to like new.
Really chuffed.
Tony S.
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 24, 2020 16:23:22 GMT
 5FF076EC-6D89-4DE1-950D-090168A2D2AD by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Made myself one of those TDC finder tools. I love it when you can make stuff for nothing. Shall Check Muddy and see if the original timing mark has moved. Wouldn’t be surprised have considered a new harmonic balancer but a bit pricy. Shall have to save up. Hacksawed of the retaining rim of plug , ground off tag at bottom of plug. Knock out ceramic centre. Tap 10mm. Insert bolt. Jobs a good un. Will confirm findings. Tony S |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 25, 2020 2:05:50 GMT
It's a shame there doesn't appear to be anywhere in the UK that refurbishes harmonic balancers. One guy on a Triumph forum noted his timing mark was 30 degrees out as the outer section had rotated as the rubber deteriorated. Interested in your results! David 5FF076EC-6D89-4DE1-950D-090168A2D2AD by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Made myself one of those TDC finder tools. I love it when you can make stuff for nothing. Shall Check Muddy and see if the original timing mark has moved. Wouldn’t be surprised have considered a new harmonic balancer but a bit pricy. Shall have to save up. Hacksawed of the retaining rim of plug , ground off tag at bottom of plug. Knock out ceramic centre. Tap 10mm. Insert bolt. Jobs a good un. Will confirm findings. Tony S |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 26, 2020 17:41:29 GMT
Piston stop inserted into number one plug hole after removing all plugs.
 9107A53B-2EF4-474C-83E7-ADEE565DA397 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Timing mark at assumed TDC  BC92AF88-9FBB-4EF9-94AF-FBD8390ED07A by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Rotate engine on fan belt and set piston stop.  C1381745-BB8F-4BB1-B574-425B5C1E8FC3 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Rotate engine backwards , again by hand until piston reaches stop.  4F2A5D10-DF3B-4D52-ADB2-3DD90FCB4FF0 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr As you can see, balancer does not appear to have slipped (at least not sufficiently to be noticeable) from the desired position. Any comments re recommended ignition timing? Mine is currently at approx 14 degrees BTDC at 800 revs by strobe. Ticks over steadily and picks up OK. Went for a run today and ran her up to 65-70 mph and sounds happy. Only real issue I have now is it still smells as if its running rich although i have checked carb and if lifted with the pin it falters slightly, then settles to normal tickover. If I wind up one more flat it stalls when lifting pin. Head is fast road by Peter Burgess and am running standard ZH needle. Any recommendations? Maybe I should give Peter a call. Tony S |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 27, 2020 1:50:00 GMT
No harm in giving Peter a call. Downton Engineering retained the original needle in their stage1 Mk1 Crab conversions that included a modified cylinder head. If there is any wear in the carb throttle shaft (or other minor sources of air leak) then when you adjust the mixture to be correct at idle it will run rich at higher rpm. (A little rich is safer than weak!)
Good to see the harmonic balancer is sound, I have one that looks OK ish given its age but has distorted around 5 degrees.
I suggest checking the ignition advance at 4000+ rpm (vacuum disconnected and plugged) to get an idea of whether the distributor is working properly. Weak springs usually mean you get insufficient total mechanical advance and poorer performance. Other issues can lead to too much advance and engine damage. Peter can probably advise on this too; usually 32-34 degrees max mechanical advance is a good starting point for these engines. This of course then determines the idle advance, which then may not be perfect but the likelihood of damage at idle is negligible. It's a juggling act as modern fuels have different burning characteristics from those around when the original ignition curve was determined.
Your setting of 14 degrees may a little be too much for the modified head but see my comments above. I would guess Peter may advise that every engine is different so no one can give you other than ball park figures unless you have a rolling test.
Andrew A is our expert and he used a 123 programmable ignition and rolling road set up for ignition timing and selecting carb needles, but then again he was into rallying and had other serious engine and suspension mods.
David
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 27, 2020 15:41:53 GMT
Dave, yes you are right. Book says 12Degrees BTDC at 600 revs. Will double check tomorrow - peeing down today.
Have already refurbed dizzy with -5 thou springs etc.
Refurbed carb with kit from Burlen. Interestingly doesn’t run on when switched off, but always used to 20 odd years ago prior to laying up!
decelerating check at 4400 rpm is only 26 degrees.
We shall see when the sun shines again.
Thanks Dave
Tony S
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 28, 2020 1:33:07 GMT
Hi Tony I assume you mean that the decelerating check at 4,400 rpm of 26 degrees is in addition to the static timing? The Mk111 (and Mk11) 25D4 distributor was 41234 and the total advance at 4,400 rpm should be 26 + 12 degrees (no vac). For the "S" the figure is 21+12, so I would guess with your modified cylinder head it may be closer to the "S". As flow through the head is improved, less advance is required. When testing at high rpm with a strobe light with a dial, I prefer to make a temporary mark on the pulley at the max advance and keep the dial set to zero as a more reliable indicator. As your carb is refurbished that should hopefully rule it out as a source of an air leak at idle when the manifold vacuum is high, other culprits are the PCV (which you don't have), the tappet cover connections to the carb servo and manifold gaskets. Alternatively the smell of fuel could indicate incomplete combustion from a weakness in the HT, coil, distributor cap, plug leads. Running on with the B series is often the result of the idle rpm being even a little too high, getting too hot from retarded ignition or problems in the cooling system or carbon build up in the head. It is well documented with MGBs but I secretly believe their problems often arise from too high an idle because of issues balancing the carbs! David Dave, yes you are right. Book says 12Degrees BTDC at 600 revs. Will double check tomorrow - peeing down today. Have already refurbed dizzy with -5 thou springs etc. Refurbed carb with kit from Burlen. Interestingly doesn’t run on when switched off, but always used to 20 odd years ago prior to laying up! decelerating check at 4400 rpm is only 26 degrees. We shall see when the sun shines again. Thanks Dave Tony S |
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