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Post by rosieuk on Jun 20, 2020 16:33:04 GMT
Finally replaced the numberplate lights with leds - they're a *lot* brighter and a lot less draw. A single led headlight is something like a 2.15amp draw on low beam. I can't recommend a good pair of LED headlights enough - mine are called "Daymaker" and I could run through fog at 60mph and see, when I couldn't do 20mph before in similar conditions. You can also get the 5.75" ones.
Accomplished this task by very carefully and *very* gently bending the bottom tab on those little caps so I can wriggle them free, replacing the t10 bulb and wriggling the cap back and bending it back until secure. The advantage being with LED it isn't something you'll need to do again.
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 20, 2020 17:46:35 GMT
I shall have a look at the headlight bulbs. I have halogen headlights switched through relays so not too bad. Also have 18acr alternator.
what is the reference of the number plate bulbs ?
Tony S
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Post by rosieuk on Jun 20, 2020 18:27:04 GMT
124162502368 is the ebay code for the numberplate bulbs - they are 8 led x array w5w t10 fitting and very bright but get a couple of spares because they are a bit fragile in transit.
For the LED sealed beam headlights they need to be DOT/CE marked and ones that'll fit/sold for a landrover will be a good choice. Decent ones aren't cheap - maybe £80 a pair but they make SUCH a difference. Whatever car I have in future will have led bulbs or SBs fitted.
Consider LED brake/tail as well - they react visibly quicker and any better reaction time for the slow witted tailgaters can't be a bad thing.
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 29, 2020 15:50:00 GMT
 1E975D74-6FC2-4D14-A631-856E7AD858B9 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr KIT  7AA056F0-868D-4809-BE3D-8459A07477CB by Anthony Surman, on Flickr As removed from car.  8ACDF7FA-4A5F-4959-A83F-72B56AF3E51C by Anthony Surman, on Flickr  3806D51A-C873-47F3-AEB9-8FC53980AA83 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr New points and rotor arm.  20A485DA-C49C-4C72-A8D8-F9A533C8EFAA by Anthony Surman, on Flickr  9B60132B-F7D8-4CAD-8111-F18F6FC429D8 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr points plate - remove to access springs.  4D6AA474-8A43-4EE2-9213-4444072CAEAE by Anthony Surman, on Flickr points plate.  0726FF5D-1F1A-4E17-A841-93F7E2ACF755 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Always good to know you have the correct max advance stop! 15 degrees.  54062501-735A-4921-B6C8-20B6F72C923F by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Original points and rotor from Green Spark PLug. Got my kit of bits from Distributor Doctor. Thought as cars got 110k plus miles a new set of springs might be in order. There is perceptible (just) movement of the shaft but doesn’t seem to affect tickover or general running. Original points and rotor are from Green Spark Plug and also seem OK, but changed them and will keep as spares. On another note, I intended to replace the cam followers, but on removing the tappet covers and extracting the followers they had no significant wear. I have always used STP since purchasing the car with 20k on clock (from memory) so seems a good investment. Tony S |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 29, 2020 17:16:03 GMT
Well done. Good call on Distributor Doctor. Martin's one of the good guys who still sells reputable reliable parts.
Chris.
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 30, 2020 9:56:38 GMT
Oil leak correction time(maybe). Keep my fingers etc crossed. One of the biggest conversation pieces on MGB forums and elsewhere.  072E43E4-C27C-409B-A5B7-E39A81FF0A33 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr will get done today hopefully when the rain stops. On the bright side I can’t believe the cam followers showing no signs of wear after 110k miles. Especially after purchasing new ones expecting to change them. Should have realised after rocker adjusters fully and not getting much slack! I did think the followers might be the source of my loud ticking noise on tickover, but not that. I have fitted twin timing chain and sprockets and new chain adjuster so dont think its that. Maybe I’m just getting paranoid, so will run it as it is. Note that a lot of MGB owners never seem to get a quietish engine or a decent tickover so maybe I shouldn’t worry. On another note, do we really believe the low mileages quoted on cars for sale or is it that they are like mine - indicated 10k miles as gone round once? thought for the day - discuss. Tony S |
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 30, 2020 16:40:26 GMT
Well, fitted dizzy and cam covers. Bad back now after bending over engine refitting manifold,cab etc. set timing at 9 degrees BTDC and runs ok. Funnily enough since doing the distributor springs (-5 thou), ticks over better and I have had to weaken mixture by 3 flats. still very tappety but it’s an old beast so shouldn’t be surprised I guess. video below.  IMG_0484 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Tony S |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 30, 2020 17:26:46 GMT
Sounds very familiar. I think they all do that, Sir.  Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 1, 2020 12:10:22 GMT
Went for a run the other day and ran out of fuel. Still showing 1/4 full.
Son in law came and got me a gallon of petrol.
Then wouldn’t turn over!
jump leads - still no effort from starter.
Anyway, towed home, only 5 miles.
Check ignition switch. All OK.
Check feed to starter from switch. All OK.
Off with M35J starter. Check solenoid. Duff.
Fortunately bought a spare solenoid (ex military) from John Richards Surplus.
All refitted. Never turned over so fast.
Great stuff.
Now for the tank sender.
Found the stats as follows:-
Full - 20 ohms
3/4 - 35 ohms
1/2 - 65 ohms
Empty - 220 ohms
Checked sender and showed 120 ohms at empty position.
Managed to get correct reading by bending the stop tab.
After much fiddling bent sender arm slightly so shows empty with a gallon left in the tank.
The moral is Trust Nothing.
Tony S
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 1, 2020 23:45:37 GMT
Hi Tony Where did you manage to find the info on the sender resistance, that's really useful information? David Now for the tank sender. Found the stats as follows:- Full - 20 ohms 3/4 - 35 ohms 1/2 - 65 ohms Empty - 220 ohms Checked sender and showed 120 ohms at empty position. Managed to get correct reading by bending the stop tab. After much fiddling bent sender arm slightly so shows empty with a gallon left in the tank. The moral is Trust Nothing. Tony S |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 2, 2020 9:54:11 GMT
Hi David. Here www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/sender.htmGuessed info would be The same as ours, but a practical test with the meter proved it. Handy, as you can test the sender easily. As long as you dont bend the tabs too far and the pick up arm doesn’t go off the end of the resistance winding there should not be any need to open up the body of the sender. Tony S |
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 2, 2020 10:04:25 GMT
And here www.mgexp.com/article/how-to-adjust-the-fuel-gauge-sender.140usual caveats - Our senders are mounted in the top of the tank, not on the side, so different shape of wire and float position. Disconnect battery before fiddling with electrics. Use a non ferrous drift to undo the retaining ring. Do the job in the open air preferably. Take care! Tony S |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 2, 2020 12:16:36 GMT
Thanks Tony. I've added those very clear links to my library.
David
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 2, 2020 16:08:08 GMT
Installed my new (old) Radiomobile 1070X radio today.
Original one was poor on the medium wave and had a spare.
I have a Blaupunkt Autofun powered windscreen antenna as didn’t want to drill hole in new wing.
Works surprising well , i did have my doubts about the antenna. Previously tried one of the hideaway powered antennas via eBay and that was rubbish.
I can recommend the Blaupunkt. Not cheap, but usual “you get what you pay for”.
Tony S
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Post by tonymark3 on Aug 4, 2020 11:28:10 GMT
Found my rattle I think.
nearside steering rack bush worn quite badly.
Hopefully Tony Wood can advise.
Tony S
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