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Post by tonymark3 on Jan 18, 2020 13:36:32 GMT
Hi Rosie, had a look round and best price the Falkens (fitted) appears to be Halfords at the moment. Will check with my local dealer.
Number plate lens half a turn anti-clockwise as viewed from underneath. Easiest way i found was to unscrew unit, only a couple of screws, then easier to grasp the Glass lens. Tony Wood has new old stock units complete with screws. Number Plate Lamp Lucas part no LU54206. Has the horrible little push in bulbs like the original side repeater lamps.I think i paid about a tenner, but dont hold me to it.
Re tyres, have no intention of driving on the existing Viking Sports! Good in their day.
My question re the diameter was mistaken as when i first searched I didn’t see any 165/80 but found them now.
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Post by rosieuk on Feb 10, 2020 14:29:55 GMT
I might try the unscrewing trick but might be fun with the back how it is - also need to source new bulbs - I don't know what type of bulb the plate lights are. Will have to look at the manual.
I've noticed something a little odd - the car seems to understeer strongly sometimes when you are turning and also accelerating hard. I'm not sure if it's the car or the road surface - maybe diesel on the road or something else.
Anyone here know a cream/red Wolseley 18/85 that lives on Mersea island nr Colchester?
If you are interested it is possible to fit a tachometer to the ADO17. Mine has one fitted but I think you need a 60mm gauge (yours will be easier with an alternator, mine has dynamo) - replaced the clock that the people who changed the polarity utterly fried.
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Post by rosieuk on Feb 10, 2020 14:45:59 GMT
PS - if you need to search for tyres for anything 50s onwards the best way is to look at the professional tyre tests online (think Which for tyres) and then see whether you can get the size in one of the top 3 tyres. I wouldn't be massively hopeful under 14" but you can get some good ones if you do a little research. I think I paid £46 for the falkens + fitting but really need a spare too.
The Sincera are all weather tyres and surprisingly good when it comes to braking - better than I expected at least. They're a good compromise for UK generally for the whole year.
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Post by tonymark3 on Feb 12, 2020 18:58:28 GMT
Cheers Rosie, local tyre fitter quoted £50 per tyre fitted for the Falkens.
just been fitting carpets from Coverdale. All pretty good except boot which seems 50mm too long and as it has bound edges don’t want to cut it.
have sent photos to supplier and await response.
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Post by tonymark3 on Feb 13, 2020 16:18:37 GMT
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Post by andrewa on Feb 13, 2020 18:49:26 GMT
Looking good!
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Post by tonymark3 on Mar 29, 2020 16:29:06 GMT
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Post by tonymark3 on Mar 29, 2020 16:44:15 GMT
Oops forgot description. new boots courtesy of Wheatley tyres. Careful chaps, checked where permissible to place jacks and used hand wrenches instead of power tools. Runs OK, but purchased a strobe to check timing. Had it set statically and found i had set it about 5 degrees BTDC when checked with strobe. Reset at 9 degrees BTDC, then had to readjust carb to suit. Refurbed carb with Burlen kit ( they sent twin carb kit by mistake, so sent me correct jet FOC although correct ZH needle). As the head has been breathed on by Peter Burgess - unleaded and polished ports and big valves - i may need to use a different needle. Advice anyone? click on image below for video.  IMG_0274 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr |
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Post by andrewa on Mar 29, 2020 17:14:34 GMT
Looks beautiful and sounds excellent!
Peter B might be worth a shout on the needle front.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 30, 2020 6:13:13 GMT
it looks really nice, well done. For what it's worth when Downton modified the Mk1 cars their single carb version still used the standard (for the Mk1)needle TW and the same yellow spring although they did make some changes to the ignition timing (retarded) to reflect the improved gas flow which was achieved by mods to the head and also a free flow exhaust system. Mk11 cars (and Mk111) had the larger inlet valves which I assume you have fitted 1.625"? The MGB only had these larger inlet valves for a short period.
As Andrew says ask the expert Peter Burgess.
David
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Post by tonymark3 on Mar 30, 2020 9:28:10 GMT
Hi David,
thanks for info, starts and runs ok. Got carb ok now, usual procedure with slow running set up. Hesitates slightly when lifting piston then settles so happy with that.
shall have to wait until the current crisis over to give it a good run.
All the jobs we could do, but car in garage block so can’t go near it.
keep safe everybody - perhaps we shall all be touring in the Autumn.
Tony
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Post by rosieuk on Apr 16, 2020 14:06:33 GMT
Hi David, thanks for info, starts and runs ok. Got carb ok now, usual procedure with slow running set up. Hesitates slightly when lifting piston then settles so happy with that. shall have to wait until the current crisis over to give it a good run. All the jobs we could do, but car in garage block so can’t go near it. keep safe everybody - perhaps we shall all be touring in the Autumn. Tony Mine uses the KW needle (standard is TW) because of the ram air intake. Certainly looking good compared to mine. Really need to do a full restoration and replace engine with the supercharged 1.8B diesel (1.8B diesel + low compression pistons + moss supercharger kit) because of bloody government and E10 garbage fuel. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Apr 27, 2020 18:39:47 GMT
Thanks Rosie.
Standard needle on mine is ZH.
Might nip round garage tomorrow and give it a run for 10 minutes.
Got a new interior mirror and sun visor clips to fit.
Also managed to buy a pair of NOS rear light units for £35 - excellent condition.
Must find some 2 metre barriers!
as i am working in public I get the usual enquiries - we had one of those when I was little etc....
Usually telling me how many bodies could be seated in the back.
Tony S
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Post by tonymark3 on Jun 4, 2020 17:13:12 GMT
 429AF2FD-F4EB-4890-95E1-ADD547F14882 by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Horrible loose connections.  BA07283A-BF12-45D3-9CEB-47FD1111F83E by Anthony Surman, on Flickr Dab of solder to make sure. Been having frustrating time with battery drain. Removed all main fuses and determined the drain was via fuse a1-a2 by checking with ammeter as advised. About 0.6a drain with everything switched off. Usual suspect - boot light. Thought i had already checked that! Light wasn’t coming on? Turns out the connections in the lamp were badly corroded. Poor design anyway. Took lamp to bits, buffed up all the copper parts and a touch of solder to make sure. Glued a small 5mm thick rubber pad to boot where the switch strikes. Reassemble Voila - 0.01 current drain now due to clock. Goes to show even though you think the boot light’s out....... |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 4, 2020 23:01:39 GMT
Disconnected mine..... Another one of those minor items on the list.  Well done. Chris. |
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