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Post by tommydp on Feb 18, 2020 10:36:23 GMT
It's not possible on mk 1 and early mk 2 cars. Not sure where the cange over point is. I've done it on a 1970 mk 2 engine.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 31, 2019 21:12:31 GMT
Anyone still on here from Sweden or Norway? Tommydp and Mark11968, seem to have deserted us. There's an early (cable change) Maxi for sale and the chap wants it to go to a good home. Would love it myself, but it's a 3k mile round trip to get it! I'm still around:-) Not very active, though.. The blue 1800 is still more or less in daily use:-) I saw that Maxi on a Facebook page. Actually not very far from me. He's asking around GBP 800. Hope it goes to a good home. Hope you are all fine:-) Tommy
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Post by tommydp on May 27, 2018 21:09:49 GMT
What a great and interesting newsletter!
I guess you refer to the two wires entering in front of the heater, visible through the box/ radio hole (if a mk 2). The connector I mentioned, is at the right hand, top end of the unit, seen from inside the car. You need to look up, from below the parcel shelf on the driver's side (if a rhd car) to find it.
At least this is the case with all crabs I've had, and I believe the heaters on Norwegian cars are exactly the same as the UK cars. Not sure about Australian cars.
Tommy.
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Post by tommydp on May 26, 2018 9:17:13 GMT
I think you have to pull the whole thing out.
But make sure the plastic connector part at the right hand, upper part of the unit is ok and that current reaches this. Also, you can unscrew this connector, with unit in car, to make sure wires have not come off behind it.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Apr 20, 2018 6:26:40 GMT
Oh, cam timing.. this brings me back... not nice memories:-)
Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Apr 14, 2018 20:36:50 GMT
Strange results, as they're very low and three cylinders have a lower reading with oil in them. I can't see how the oil test can give lower readings, it just doesn't make sense.
The main thing is that the cylinders read approximately the same, however a reasonable good working engine should have 150 or more. Most 1800s I've worked on have been around 170.
First of all, are you absolutely certain the valve clearances are not to tight? It might be a good idea to press the valve down, when it's set for clearance checking, with a block of wood resting on the bonnet lock panel, let it return and then check the clearance. It may close further than when turning the engine by hand. I suppose it's down to worn guides. I've done this and have excellent vacuum, and still quiet(ish) valves.
With such low compression readings I'd also do a leak test, to hear where the air is escaping. Turn each cylinder to tdc firing, valves closed. Get compressed air into the cylinder, and listen where it goes. A leaky inlet valve makes the air escape through the carb, and a leaky exhaust valve through the exhaust. Bad rings allows the air to go into the sump (some ir is escaping here even on a good engine)
Good luck!
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Apr 9, 2018 19:38:08 GMT
Hi!
The radiator cap should be a blanking cap only. If it leaks under pressure, try bending the locking "ears" of the cap, to make it seal more tightly.
Expansion tank cap should be 13 PSI.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Apr 3, 2018 20:41:41 GMT
Sounds rather normal now, in my opinion.
As long as the gauge is in the N area somewhere, it should be fine. Mine is usually at the left part of the N, going up hill it creeps to the middle. When stopped after a drive the temp will rise, so turning ignition on after a few minutes the gauge will be at the right part of the N. However, once started the gauge falls, indicating its cooling/ circulating.
As John Twist says: The N area of the gauge is normal - it's not over heating before it boils. He mentions putting insulating tape over the gauge as an alternative to being obsessed with the temp gauge:-) Check out "MGB cooling" by University motors on Youtube.
Best regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 9, 2018 15:24:12 GMT
Moving the distributor anti clockwise will retard the ignition.
The plugs will become black and sooty at idle, even at the correct setting.
This must be a fuelling issue. I would remove the carburettor chamber and piston, watch the needle...., and establish where the fuel level is in the jet using a depth indicator. It should be around 3-4 mm below the bridge. With the float chamber full, pull down the jet until it's level with the fuel. Then measure from bridge to top of jet.
What happens to the fuel level in the jet when it stalls? My guess is fuel is either flooding out of the jet, or you have no or little fuel in the jet which would point to a float or fuel supply problem. I have started establishing where the fuel is in the jet, rather than fiddling with measuring float gap. I find it far more accurate.
When you have got the fuel level right, set the timing to 9 degress BTDC static, turn the mixture nut 12 flats down and idle screw 1.5 turns in from closed throttle. Fine tune from there.
Good luck.
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Post by tommydp on Feb 17, 2018 21:50:58 GMT
Chris, I was actually waiting for a post, as I was so excited! Well, I can say this brings me back Better leave it and get back to it. If you set number one intake valve to 0.020 the pushrod should just start to lift/ not be able to rotate at 5 degrees btdc. Where you of the impression that someone have been into the timing gears, or did it look original? Hard to tell from the pics, what happens to the marks with the tensioner activated? I prefer setting the crank and cam in the correct place with the cog wheels only first, using a metal rule to mak a straight line through centre of marks, and middle of crank and cam. Then I put the chain on on the bench and check with the ruler as I pull the wheels apart with chain on. I suppose you measured while the tensioner was in place and operating? Did you establish the true tdc with a piston stop and was the timing disk used? Well, hang in there Chris! You'll get there! Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Feb 12, 2018 20:20:15 GMT
Thanks, Chris! I had too google that I guess I've been lucky with that engine... Finally.. Oh, dear, don't get me into cam timing... My experience is the timing is usually not way off unless someone have been messing with the timing gears. However there can be variations between the rule of nine and the tdc firing valve clearances. And for some reason it seems the inlet valve on cylinder 3 has the largest difference. I've started adjusting them by the rule of nine first, then I check the clearances at tdc firing for each cylinder. If a valve is to tight here, I set it to 0.015. If the gap is too large, as the case is with the mentioned valve on cylinder 3, I leave it as is. It seems to me the feeler gauge should have no real resistance at all, while a 0.016 gauge should not pass without forcing it. If the engine doesn't have any serious backlash, check rotor when turning the engine the opposite way, I'd leave the timing and set the valves as mentioned. It seems to me they have to settle, and a few re adjustments are necessary after a head gasket change. Valve clearances has the biggest influence on engine behaviour, in my opinion. I always try to get those right first, then ignition, then fuel and mixture. Good luck! Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Feb 6, 2018 16:13:38 GMT
Exactly what I started thinking of too, Dave.
If so, too tight. Remember, if you can't hear them they are too tight. Would explain the low vacuum too, and perhaps the feeling of improved performance as the valves will open earlier. I would check it...
I would have expected higher vacuum and compression, too. Tight valves would make the values low. My (current...) engine has 170 on all cylinders and vacuum is 21 at idle. It's all original and untouched. Found it in a Swedish scrapyard, put in a new clutch and put the engine straight in. Didn't even paint it:-) Amazingly it's the best engine I've ever had.
T
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Post by tommydp on Feb 5, 2018 19:35:49 GMT
Well, that's interesting for sure. Rule of nine or tdc firing method?
Would be interesting to hear the reason for this, I mean why it keeps quiet with such clearances and how it makes it perform better. Increased clearance will make the valves open later, so I can't see how this adds up..
But, as mentioned, the main thing is that it runs well!
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Post by tommydp on Feb 5, 2018 17:09:57 GMT
0.025 has got to be the plug gap, I guess?! I can't imagine quiet valves with that gap...
17 is the lowest OK vacuum value for a standard engine at idle, but main thing is that it runs well. They should manage 20 or above if well tuned and in good condition.
T
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Post by tommydp on Jan 22, 2018 21:31:20 GMT
A job well done!
It's amazing how some petrol hoses are really bad quality. Absolutely important to check.
T.
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