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Post by tommydp on Jan 20, 2018 10:16:32 GMT
The engine and bay looks very nice!
Great that the valve is on its way. Just connect the valve to the manifold, and the hose from the oil separator to the valve. And it's very important the oil cap is vented, as Dave has pointed out.
You,ll have to remove the needle from the carb piston to observe the marking, on its shank.
While waiting for the PCV valve I'd make sure mechanics and ignition is ok. Valve clearances, points gap, leads, plugs, static timing.
T
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Post by tommydp on Jan 17, 2018 12:59:20 GMT
Hi!
Dave is right. You must have a working PCV system, either a Smith's valve or connected to the carburettor as on later models. Otherwise you could blow oil seals and the engine won't function properly as it has impact on the mixture.
If the connection for the Smith's valve (or carburettor connection if it originally had this system) has been blocked, which I assume as it runs at all, the mixture will be way too rich at the correct setting for the engine. So you would have had to weaken the mixture far beyond the base setting to make it idle well. And the weak mixture makes it run hotter. That's my guess:-)
Correctly adjusted the jet should be around 1.5 mm (0.060 inches?) below the bridge in the carburettor.
Good luck!
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2017 21:22:22 GMT
My favourite subject:-)
Ok, today's cars have all sorts of equipment for driving safer on snow and ice and many, at least Norwegians have 4x4 cars. Funny thing is, this seems to make people forget how to drive in winter conditions. We used to laugh of news on the telly from people driving in snow fall in France etc, but now it seems we are the same up here... People don't even brush the snow off, or scrape the ice before they drive. I guess they rely on the car to fix that, too..
I started driving (officially..) in 1993. I really can't think of a 2 wheel drive car better suited for winter driving than the 1800. Ok, today I have a Freelander 2, but back then, no. Dad had a mk 2 Granada, mum an Oldsmobile Cutlass and later a Volvo 740, need I say more:-) I used to pass lots of cars spinning and struggling in my 1800, and towed quite a few loose. Saab was advertised as "The winter car", but I think the 1800 was better for the job. Some meant the Maxi was better than the 1800, but that's not true.
At least in my family, my blue 1800 was known as the ultimate winter car. After a blizzard in the mountains it literally ploughed through piles of snow and pulled our non starting Ford 17 M loose. It also started form cold in minus 39 degrees.
I try to keep it away from the dreaded salt these days, but when the Freelander is out of order the 1800 is pushed into service:-)
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2017 20:55:49 GMT
Strange, I've used one for years. Not at all happy with his overhaul of the distributor, but the rotor arm seems good.
Is it stamped with DD? There are other red ones around, of course... I try to get all NOS Lucas ignition parts I can find, and stick to points.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Nov 8, 2017 8:38:39 GMT
I also suggest flushing the complete system, including the heater matrix, both ways using a garden hose. Then fit a new thermostat, and perhaps a new temperature sender. In my experience they break down more than thermostats.
It used to be common in Norway, and guess Canada too, to have 88 degrees thermostats during winter and the standard 82 degrees in summer. I don't use it that much in winter, so keep the standard one fitted all the time. If I need to use it in extreme cold I put a grille muff on:-)
Of course the heater could have been better, but at least down to minus 10 it should be perfectly ok with a standard thermostat. The trouble is when you need to put it to screen to keep the windscreen ice free as this won't keep the cabin warm enough. Again, make sure the fan spins as fast as it should, in case the car has been polarity switched.
I have driven an 1800 in below minus 30. Had a 88 degrees thermostat then, and a grille muff:-) It was ok, but I kept the jacket on:-)
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Nov 4, 2017 10:44:59 GMT
If yo have installed new clutch parts, I really recommend you go back to original hydraulic parts with correct lengths of pushrods. If not, you could end up wearing out the release bearing very quickly in addition to the clutch not working correctly. The welded part to the slave push rod was done in an attempt to overcome a worn release bearing, well now you have a new bearing...
I can't see why the pedal would need a stop. Usually the 1800 needs more throw on the pedal, as you need to cut rubber mats to make it go as far to the floor as possible etc..
I like to keep things original. The people who built it knew what they were doing, at least most of the time:-) So, back to original is my suggestion. I don't remember the correct length of the slave pushrod, but I can check and get back.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:26:04 GMT
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:24:23 GMT
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Post by tommydp on Nov 2, 2017 21:02:10 GMT
Hi!
Keep the slave cylinder pushrod length as original.
I posted a scan from a service bulletin here once about measuring for correct pedal travel. If I recall correctly the distance from underside of pedal in a straight line to where it hits the floor should be around 17 cm. Carpet removed.
There were changes made to the diameters of the clutch pressure plate/cover and clutch disc. Mismatch of parts can make the clutch inoperative.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Oct 24, 2017 21:10:12 GMT
Great news, Chris! Have you checked the compression again? I have 170 on all four after doing the cylinder head. I'm planning on putting the correct parts from a 41234 dizzy into a NOS genuine distributor body. I guess it's the bush that causes the sideways slop.
Dave: The cylinder head, and the engine was surprisingly clean, no build up. This engine has been standing for 30 yrs, I'm sure. The valve sealed so badly I would see light between the valve and seat when putting a small torch into the inlet port, after removing the head. When I blew compressed air into the cylinder at TDC firing it would rush out throught the carb. I actually think the valve has been changed previously and not lapped to the seat. I fitted a nev valve, lapped all valves and have now even compression on all cylinders.
It seems to me the early mk 2 engines don't originally have the shims to the rocker posts fitted. My current engine, which I believe is 68, does not have them. It's actually quite quiet, even with the correct clearances so haven't botheres fitting them.
T
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Post by tommydp on Oct 22, 2017 18:58:25 GMT
Well done! I've just done the same operation, as the inlet valve on cylinder two was not sealing properly.
It looks like that exhaust valve could be a bit recessed.. or I could be wrong. Good to have a spare cylinder head then:-)
Hope it works well!
Tommy.
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Post by tommydp on Oct 21, 2017 17:52:27 GMT
Hi all!
Curious about the 41238 dizzy, Chris. Thought the 41234 was the one for mk 2 cars. I still have play in the distributor shaft, never bothered to send it back to DD once again. It runs fine though.
I remember we had a discussion on heater fans and polarity changes. At least on my cars they will run slower/ the opposite way when reversed to negative earth.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Jul 18, 2017 8:29:21 GMT
I've used pre- engaged starters from Princess 1800/ Marina 1800 for years, without problems. Also on cars which had inertia starters originally. But you need the distance piece between starter and clutch housing, from a Princess 1800.
Tommy.
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Post by tommydp on Jun 26, 2017 9:15:50 GMT
Looking very good!
Regards, Tommy
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Post by tommydp on May 21, 2017 20:28:53 GMT
Welcome aboard:-)
Tommy
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