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Post by tommydp on May 21, 2017 20:26:28 GMT
Best of luck tomorrow!
Tommy
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Doors
Apr 10, 2017 7:30:25 GMT
Post by tommydp on Apr 10, 2017 7:30:25 GMT
I made some shims to go behind the door hinges, to adjust the gap. Worked very well.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 17, 2017 15:57:58 GMT
What will happen if you put a 40969 distributor in a mk 2 engine? I have one with no shaft play, compared to the 41234 one...
Will performance suffer?
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 14, 2017 15:43:06 GMT
41415 is the 45 d dizzy for Princess and Marina 1800. Should be same as 41234 for 1800 (25 d)
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 9, 2017 11:41:29 GMT
Can't say I find the 1800 noisy for a more than 50 yrs old car design. Apart from some exhaust roar at speed, it's rather quiet I'd say. Even the engine.
I noticed quite a difference when I put in new sound deadening mats, from modern material. The original mats often come lose from the bulkhead, behind the dash. Also, checking grommets and the heater intake drain tubes is a good idea, and make sure the pads on the bonnet hinges actually close the holes on the firewall. One thing often overlooked is the spare multiplug holes on the fuseboard, the two on the right. Cut a piece of rubber and place behind the socket, to cover the holes for extra therminals.
Finally, a lot of noise is transmitted through the fresh air ducting and vents. Make sure the vents close. A sound deadening mat on the boot floor and behind the rear seat can bring the exhaust roar down.
Another alternative: turn the radio up:-)
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 6, 2017 18:24:00 GMT
I like that. Never thought of it. Give it a go, or should I say roll..
Well worth getting it warm, letting it cool down, get it warm again. I usually managed to free them going back and forth in 2nd and reverse.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Mar 5, 2017 12:45:24 GMT
Sorry to hear about that, after all the work done.
I would, however, give it quite a lot of tries of freeing the clutch before taking the lump out again. It should free off eventually. I've had 3 1800s which stood for 20+ years, and they all freed off eventually. One was very hard, it wouldn't free up with the front raised. Eventually I took it on the road (little traffic...) it worked:-)
Give it another try! Good luck:-)
Tommy.
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Post by tommydp on Mar 2, 2017 18:52:44 GMT
It looks absolutely stunning! Great work!
The colour combination is indeed factory original. Don't remember the names of the colours, the body parts catalogue has the info of combinations.
Anyway, I've broken a couple of Swedish 1800s which had exactly these colours from factory. Green exterior, green seats and door cards and green carpets. And of course the mk 1 and 2 engines should be BMC green.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Feb 20, 2017 22:24:30 GMT
My rebuilt engine won't go below 45 or so at idle, unless when it was really hot during summer. Sometimes the gauge wavers at hot idle. I haven't worried about it.
I suppose the main thing is that the maximum pressure doesn't go too high, as the pump itself is capable of making extreme pressure. If you have oil coming out of the rocker assembly and no abnormal noises, pointing too a blockage/ lack of lubrication, I wouldn't worry.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Feb 11, 2017 8:08:10 GMT
The dip stick tube has not been broken off where it enters the block, has it? Happened to me on a Princess block once. They are more fragile than the 1800 screw in type.
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Post by tommydp on Feb 11, 2017 8:03:28 GMT
I was just going to ask how air comes through that oil filler cap, then I saw your comment. No doubt oil was sucked into the engine then.
Looking good!
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Post by tommydp on Feb 10, 2017 13:27:19 GMT
Seems to me it's difficult, and sometimes impossible, to get the oil pressure up after the engine has been in pieces. Seems the oil pupm won't prime itself if the engine has been dismantled. It's easier at an oil change, where I suppose therre's still some oil left in the pick up and pump.
After draining the battery attempting to see the yellow light go out and the gauge rise, I usually end up with the following which works well for me:
Disconnect pipe between block and oil filter, have someone pour oil into the pipe connector on the block, while you turn the engine BACKWARDS by hand. If you fill through a funnel and see through hose, you can see once the oil pump starts sucking the oil in. You hear it, too. Continue for a while, then start rotating the engine the right direction, and the oil pump is primed. Always have the filter filled with oil. Connect the pipe again, turn engine on starter, plugs out, until you have pressure, several times. Start, and hope for the best.
Obviously, all internal parts should be treated with a quality engine break in grease upon assembly. I don't think modern oils, low on zddp are good enough for breaking in an engine. Also, the experts have some different opinions on the correct way to break in a cam and lifters. I did as recommended by the people who rebuilt my engine, and at least I've never damaged the cam or lifters. Other problems, on the other hand.....
Don't recall the exact procedure, but it's something like first have the oil pressure up, then start it and let it idle at 2500 rpm or so untill it's at operating temperature. Let it cool down totally, start it up and let it idle at 1500 rpm until warm. Take it for a spin, drive it like you would normally, but keep revs rather higg, don't push it in low gears. Rev the engine now and then to bed in piston rings.
Roughly like that, after my memory. I take no responsibilty if you ruin your engine doin it this way:-) I will try and find what they wrote to me about it. I did exactly as they said, and at least this time the engine uses no oil and teh cam and lifters were still the same when I had them out. So the mysterious issues must lie elsewhere...
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Feb 7, 2017 19:20:38 GMT
Sounds great! Looking forward to pictures!
It's pretty easy to change the cam that way:-) Quite a difference in valve lift! I've also changed the cam, once again. Lift is fine, new chain and sprockets but it still runs like crap in period, and one valve is hammering.. Fed up with it, so putting in complete engine from a spares car. Possibly original, untouched and worn, but it's quiet, has oil pressure, good compression and pulls like a train. So much for fully restoring an engine... twice:-/
I have a new Piper 270 cam, which I'm keen to put into an engine one day. However I should manage to get a standard engine working first, I guess:-)
Good luck, and keep posting:-)
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Jan 29, 2017 10:56:21 GMT
Finally found the shaft which I made a groove on, for fitting in the Princess box with circlip.
The groove itself is 1 mm wide. The centre of the groove is 10 mm from the end of the shaft (spline end). I made it with a hack saw and a file. Don't think it has to be very accurate.
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Jan 19, 2017 19:31:05 GMT
Yes, have tried that. The difference in clearance is obvious no matter how I set it.
I have checked the tappets and pushrod, also tried others. Tappet is good, no pitting and pushrod is straight. Clearance is the same if I rotate the pushrod.
Suppose, it just can't be anything else than the cam lobe. I'll try another cam. Perhaps this cam has suffered over tightening of the number 6 valve clearance, as in my exoerience valve number 6 is always noisier than the others.
Tommy
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