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Post by tommydp on Jan 25, 2011 11:08:28 GMT
Hi! Does anyone know if it's possible to swap from cable change to rod change without further work to the mk 2 gearbox?
I've got a rod mechanism from an 1800 Princess, and this will not fit the mk2 gearbox. The three levers (first - second, third - fourth and reverse) going into the 'box are different length to those on the cable arrangement.
So, the question is: Is the rod mechanism on the mk 3 different to the mechanism fitted to the Princess? Unfortunately I can't get a mk 3 arrangement here, they were never sold in Norway so I haven't broken one..
Although the Princess gearbox fits the Crab engine, I can't use it as the differential is different giving trouble when it comes to the driveshafts. They won't go in as far as they should, as the Princess had cv type inner joints unlike the Crab's rubber joints. Currently I have the Princess box fitted, but the driveshafts wobble and are under too much pressure because they don't go into the box as far as they should. I'm going back to the original gearbox, as I'm putting in a reconditioned engine anyway. However I would like to have rod change rather than cables..
Thankful for any help:-)
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Post by tommydp on Jan 14, 2011 14:29:58 GMT
Can I use the head gasket and intake gasket for an MGB on my 67 1800? Yes!
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Post by tommydp on Jan 4, 2011 20:18:05 GMT
Another tip from frozen Norway:
Check ignition advance operation,
Mechanical advance: remove dizzy cap, grab rotor arm and turn fully anti- clockwise. Release arm and it should return to original position.
Vacuum advance: grab dizzy baseplate, holding points and condenser gently. Turn the plate fully clockwise, in this position block the outlet pipe on top of the vacuum unit of the distributor with a finger. Relase the baseplate, still blocking the pipe. The baseplate shall remain in position, if it works and holds vacuum. Once you remove your finger from the pipe, it should return to original position.
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Post by tommydp on Jan 4, 2011 18:47:03 GMT
We're getting closer:-)
I must admit, that I now agree with the latest posts here and suggest a closer look at the ignition. If idle is smooth and even, without misfire, it's more likely that the problems you're having are due to ignition fault rather than than air leaks, in my opinion. But of course, I could be wrong. My bet is mechanical or vacuum advance related problems. Perhaps due to maladjustment.
Have a look at ignition related tips in previous posts, both by others and myself. The trouble reminds me very much of the headaches I had when putting my current 1800 engine together. Finally, a (very) old mechanic suggested I had a look at the base settings, as everything had been dismantled and out of tune.
For example, how are the settings of the carb and distributor acting together. It will run in many different settings, but it could be hard to find the exact points correct for the whole range, considering rpm, load, speed. Perhaps the throttle is too much open while the distributor is too much retarded (anti clockwise), then you could have too much vacuum advance applied at idle, giving less vacuum advance at speed.
I would set the ignition static, around 10 degrees btdc, start it and tune idle and mixture from this. Lift carb piston to listen for correct tuning at idle. Should rise and then fall down.
Also remove plugs, turn engine to TDC on the fire stroke for cylinder one (valves on this cylinder closed) Where's the rotorarm pointing? Away from cyl 1 segment on distributor cap?
Best of luck!
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Post by tommydp on Jan 3, 2011 15:55:38 GMT
Regarding the oil separator, this is on the tappet cover nearest to the radiator, below the manifold. It's either a can type, or a type where just a pipe comes up from the cover, the separator being inside the cover on this one. These are interchangeable, but keep them clean using diesel for instance. From the oil separator a rubber hose runs to either the carb or a valve on top of the inlet manifold, is this hose ok? Have you got the breather valve on the manifold? Clean it, check diaphragm. Check hoses, tighten clips.
I suspect you've got an air leak somewhere, either in the breather valve hoses or at the carb, if the hose from the oil separator is mounted her. Also, there could be a leak in carb gaskets and manifold gasket. How about the hose to the brake booster from the manifold or even the one way valve at the booster? Try listening with a length of tube to your ear around these places at idle, listening for hissing, meaning air leak.
When it comes to manifold, I would try listening for air leaks first, as well as other tips mentioned. Note that mk1 and 2 carbs and manifolds should not be mixed, has something to do with different semi downdraught angles.
Is the carb needle centralized? when you lift the piston assembly inside the carb and let it fall, is there a metallic "clonk"? It should be. The sound should be the same with mixture screw fully up (weak) and fully down (rich). If not, the needle is not centralized in the jet.
Speaking of idle, how does it idle? any spitting etc?
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Post by tommydp on Jan 3, 2011 15:11:21 GMT
Tony suggested blocking of the two drain pipes on the early manifold as I cannot source a replacement easily. Any onyone else done this? Block them with suitable screws, no problem. Done it on all mk 1 crabs I've owned.
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Post by tommydp on Dec 31, 2010 19:17:54 GMT
Here are some further suggestions:
valves adjusted to tight? low tension leads in ignition circuit: loose connections, bad earthing inside distributor?, tighten screws holding the plate inside distributor. Especially check LT connection on 25 D distributor. On 45 D type (later) especially check if baseplate inside is loose. Check advance springs inside distributor, broken? (One is supposed to have a loose fit..) loose connection on ignition switch? Overcharging/ undercharging generator? Engine earth strap OK? Battery earth connection OK? Check for blue cracking spark at plugs Fuel pump? Clean filter if you have SU mechanical type. Clean carburetter, check that piston moves freely, check needle and damper spring. Correct coil? Car not fitted with a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit? Weak mixture? Check spark plugs. Oil on one or more plugs?
Best of luck from Norway! Keep us informed, and I'm sure we will solve this:-) Misfires are the most annoying things..
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Post by tommydp on Dec 19, 2010 22:25:07 GMT
A car for all seasons:-) Attachments:
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Post by tommydp on Dec 19, 2010 21:49:16 GMT
Lovely! Can't be many Crabs left in Norway now, have you any idea how many survive over there? Well, it's hard to tell, I know of about 15 cars around the country. From time to time I'm contacted regarding parts, advice etc so I keep a record of the cars. I also keep a record of the cars advertised for sale. I have some contact with other owners here through a Norwegian club for British cars as well as a Norwegian Mini- website. From time to time Crabs come up for sale here, so who knows how many are out there, on and off the road? A total of 25- 30 cars perhaps? The 1800 was quite a rare car here, even when new. They where quite expensive, I guess most buyers were older, "upper middle class" people. Taking this into account, I would say an amazing number of crabs have survived here, judging by how they come up for sale from time to time after resting in a shed or barn for years. I don't think there are many more Marinas than Crabs in Norway today, even though the Marina was a common car here.
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2010 13:42:03 GMT
In fact, I found two pics of my own 1800 on flickr:-) Search for Morris 1800 and you'll find it:-) Sadly, the pics haven't been added to the landcrab group on flickr.
It seems a bus driver with an interest in old cars has taken the pictures of the crab while it was parked outside the school I'm teaching at:-) Speaking of school, my pupils (11 yrs old) are very interested in the 1800. It really stands out among the other teachers' boring cars:-) They even made an article about it in a school paper once.
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2010 11:17:41 GMT
Welcome Tommy! Bet you could teach us a thing or two about how to deal with this snow stuff that has brought the UK to it's knees this last couple of week. You bet! So far an unusually tough winter here as well. Loads of snow and temperatures have been around - 20 degrees Celsius for longer periods. I live on a small farm and have an old Volvo tractor (from 1966!) with a big showel and a "snow thrower". When it comes to cars, studded tyres are a must. The Landcrab, by the way, is the ultimate car for winter use. Will climb and brake safely any hill and is stable as a military tank on ice roads:-) I've used it in - 25 Celsius. No trouble, needs 88 degrees thermostat and a grille muff though to keep a warm cabin. It starts instantly without trouble as well, but a lighter engine oil is recommended for easier cranking. Most Norwegian cars are equipped with an electrical engine heater, an element is mounted into the engine block and heats the coolant by current from the house 220V. My grandparents drove the 1800 for a trip to the mountains in the 70s, in - 40 Celsius, and they always bragged about how it easily started after an overnight stay, without using an engine heater:-)
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2010 10:27:35 GMT
How it was... Being young I pulled it apart.. I learned a lot from it, for sure. It was quite rusty, especially the sills were bad Attachments:
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Post by tommydp on Dec 18, 2010 10:21:03 GMT
Here's my 1971 Morris after restoration. It's repainted in Blue Royale, the original colour. New sills and a wing was fitted. The whole car was totally dismantled, and put together using quite a lot of "new" parts. A low mileage engine was put in, but I'm having another engine totally rebuilt for it now. Attachments:
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Post by tommydp on Dec 17, 2010 19:58:21 GMT
I'm a Landcrab enthusiast living in mid- Norway. I've owned and restored various Crabs as well as other BMC/ Leyland cars. At the time I own a 1971 Morris 1800 mk2 and a 1975 mk1 Marina 1.8 Coupe.
The 1800 started my passion for Leyland cars, and crabs in particular. It belonged to my granddad from new, so I grew up with it. Granddad worked at a Leyland- dealer. He sold cars all his life and changed cars almost every year, but he drove the 1800 for 12 years. A reliable car in deed, never needing more than regular servicing! I inherited the crab when my grandparents died. It was in quite a sorry state by now, rusty and with a tired engine.
Being around 14 yrs old, I learned about cars by totally dismantling the 1800. It then remained for many years in pieces in my Dad's garage, until 2005. By then I had repaired and driven lots of other Leyland cars, as the resto of the 1800 would have been to expensive. However, after a sale of another crab the resto started. It's been totally rebuilt, and in the summer of 2009 granddad's crab was back on the road:-) Pictures and more stories to follow:-)
By the way I'm creator of the Landcrab fan club on facebook! Feel free to join, if you haven't already:-)
Tommy
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