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One side of the warning light bulb goes to +12V (white wire). The BRY wire goes to the alternator which, when the engine is not running, is at earth potential, and so the bulb lights. When the engine is running, the alternator provides voltage to the BRY wire, and so the bulb has +12V coming from both sides, and so the light goes out. If the output from the alternator drops a little below battery voltage (say because low idle speed), the bulb has a small potential across it and so glows weakly. Tony

In the factory, power units were fitted from underneath at the "body drop station". The L shaped lifting lugs were attached to the rocker cover studs for transporting the power unit around the factory (see attached photo) and should not be used for engine removal or installation. 

Having tried both ways, I prefer to remove the front wheels, remove top hub attachments to allow drive shafts to be disconnected, remove gusset plates, take the weight of the car with a chain block hooked to the cut-outs in the front cross member panel just below the grille, and then lower the whole thing down so that the power unit is resting on a flat trolley with castors. Once the top items are detached, raise everything up leaving the complete power unit on the trolley which can be then wheeled away. 

When it comes time to replace, the body can be lowered back on to the power unit and everything reattached from the top, then the body lifted up and the lower items replaced. What is particularly convenient with this is that because the wheels are removed, the body and power unit are sitting much lower to the ground, which is easier on the back when leaning over the engine bay; the weight of the power unit is always on the ground; and the suspended body can be shoved around a bit to make holes for things like engine mounts line up more easily. Plus, when you are doing this on your own, the bonnet is a difficult thing to remove and replace and can now be left in place. 

By the sound of the previous posts, it seems everyone has their own preference and probably comes down to available head room and lifting equipment that works best for you. 

Tony

The Kimberley (MKI version) had twin carbs, but the MKII incarnation dropped the second carb and so Matt's car might be actually standard. Indeed, on one factory road test, a single-carb Tasman is reported as having a higher top speed than a twin carb Kimberley.

The Kimberley/Tasman was designed by Roy Haynes (who also designed the Marina). Haynes fell out with Webster during the Leyland merger and departed the company to set up his own design studio, with which he was hopeful for landing the job of designing the P76, but this was not going to happen with Webster at management level and this job went to Michellotti.

Haynes (who also designed the MKII Cortina) had an excellent record and the sharply sloping nose of the Kimberely was considered a master stroke of making the car look lower and sleeker. The enclosed C pillar hides the metalwork for the small rear opening windows of the 1800 which still exist inside. Even though the design found favour within Leyland, Haynes described the car as "highly priced, over-weight, and under-sexed". It was a case of too little and too late. Tony

It's probably too late to mention this now, but I've found it useful to check the crankshaft bush when one has the clutch in pieces. A worn bush puts a lot of undesirable load on the clutch shaft ball bearing and causes it to wear, and even turn in its alloy housing. A new bush makes the engine run much smoother since the clutch plate will be more central with the axis of rotation. That said, the bush should have enough clearance so that the shaft can slide in and out without a significant piston suction effect - that is, the clearance should not be too tight but a loose fit. How loose? good question. Tony

There are two types of release bearings and three types of clutch covers. The new strapless cover, 13H3534, uses the old release bearing (chamfered bore) 13H3176. But then there was a new, new, cover 13H3888 which uses a new bearing 13H3889 (flat face, no chamfer). The first type of strapless cover 13H3888 has stepped taper on the cover thrust place, and by the look of your photo, this is what you have Chris. The new, new cover has a smooth taper on the outside of the thrust plate (which is thinner in cross section) and has to be used with the 13H3889 bearing. According to our Australian service bulletins, the part numbers are:
13H3534 (B&B 75615/11) 13H3176 (B&B 75598), and 13H3888 (B&B76082/11) 13H3889 (B&B76080).

Failure of the bearing is most likely due to over-stroking due to clutch pedal travel - puts excessive pressure on everything (including crankshaft thrust washers). Service Bulletins go on at length about measuring the stroke, and eventually (here, anyway) a new clutch pedal with reduced leverage was introduced. Main trouble is that the clutch travel depends a lot on the thickness of carpet under ones foot and is not precisely controlled, nor can it be easily adjusted.
Tony

I, for some years now, have had the pleasure of writing up a book in conjunction with Peter Davis (ex-BMC Australia Product Engineering Administration Manager) which provides details of all the identification codings for Australian produced BMC/Leyland vehicles. We are nearly finished, but we need some knowledgeable person to decipher some Leyland transmission/ancillary codes for us. Can you help?

860
889
902
905

For those who do not know Peter, he was the person responsible for allocation of the "YDO" numbers in Australia, as well as many other coding schemes for engines and what-not at the factory. Unfortunately, Peter left Leyland just before the above codes came into use, and so our documentation is incomplete for those codes. 


Thanks, Tony

Some more interesting photos. This must have cost the company a fortune: one-off castings for bell housing and transmission, totally reworked body from A pillar forward. Work on the car began in mid 1968 and took about a year to complete. It was never shown to the UK management. 
Tony