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Post by bullyboy on Jan 28, 2014 7:54:01 GMT
The cost of an international flat rate box medium size is about $60, I'm not sure if it'll fit in the box. The Large size is about $86. I'll check it tomorrow. Hi I phoned Tony Woods(LOCI spares man) last night to see if he had any, thought it may be cheaper and less hassle for you. He should be coming back to me today. I apprieciate the effort and may still need them but can we wait till Tony comes back to me. I believe they are quite rare items over here so he tell me Paul |
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 6, 2014 19:59:33 GMT
Missed vgc petrol tank on ebay today. It's back up again - HERE. Chris. |
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Post by andrewa on Feb 7, 2014 7:00:48 GMT
Thanks for that - it's magic!
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Post by bullyboy on Feb 12, 2014 8:15:06 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 13, 2014 1:08:48 GMT
Snap...........!
Good stuff, Paul.
Chris.
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Post by bullyboy on Feb 26, 2014 7:59:45 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 26, 2014 12:22:45 GMT
Good to see the progress and such a thorough job being done. Bits of your car are worse than mine!
Chris.
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Post by bullyboy on Feb 26, 2014 12:29:27 GMT
Good to see the progress and such a thorough job being done. Bits of your car are worse than mine! Chris. Yeah, not even seen the state of the drivers side yet, but i guess its going to be much the same and whats scary it still has a valid MOT PAUL |
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Post by Penguin45 on Feb 26, 2014 15:06:43 GMT
Really? That is scary. Just by the by, damage like that can be held to account against the testing station if discovered within the first three months of the pass being issued. It's an old used car dodge - "For sale with 9 months MoT" = backside covered! I have arrived at the off-side on mine. Significant amounts of metal into the inner wing appear to be absent. Stand by..........  Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Feb 26, 2014 17:48:02 GMT
Paul and Chris, I'm really impressed by the amounts of welding you're able to do as well as your skills. It really is fascinating to watch what you are able to achieve. All possible credits to you for going so far keeping "our" crabs on the road.
It really is scary to think about cars in this state having a valid MOT. How is that possible? I'm also more and more convinced Norwegian cars were additionally rustproofed when arriving here. I've never seen rust like this on any 1800 here.
Keep up the good work!
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 27, 2014 0:54:54 GMT
I joint Tommy in expressing my admiration for Paul and Chris' welding skills. The issue of the integrity of the annual MOT test is a difficult and worrying one. To establish the full extent of the problems on Paul's car would probably not have been possible in the time allowed for a MOT test and would have required the use of high quality camera scopes to access body cavities and maybe some potentially destructive poking around. It would be interesting to hear from Alexander and others based in Germany where the test is far more stringent as to what and how they check for hidden body corrosion on classic and other cars in the biannual inspection there? This is clearly a very important safety consideration and the 1800 is both blessed and cursed by its construction which relies almost entirely on a clever monocoque design with very little in the way of heavy gauge structural reinforcement. This means it is potentially very vulnerable to the weakening effects of corrosion, while on the other hand having considerable strength in the front tube cross member and very large sills. I have seen badly corroded Landcrabs where the doors open and close perfectly so it's likely the problems will only show up in the event of an accident. These photos from Chris and Paul are invaluable. David Paul and Chris, I'm really impressed by the amounts of welding you're able to do as well as your skills. It really is fascinating to watch what you are able to achieve. All possible credits to you for going so far keeping "our" crabs on the road. It really is scary to think about cars in this state having a valid MOT. How is that possible? I'm also more and more convinced Norwegian cars were additionally rustproofed when arriving here. I've never seen rust like this on any 1800 here. Keep up the good work! Tommy |
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 18, 2014 7:58:17 GMT
Hi Guys Just the latest installment of the passenger side rebuild near near the sill installation time. Rear floor pan to arch   Underneath the rear suspension, still needs dressing and undersealing  new piece made   new inner plate to boot floor sorted, thought i would make it strong  sill cut away to take new sill, a bit of modification required.    Next job is to make some new jacking points and sort out middle skin more progress soon Paul |
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 19, 2014 0:25:17 GMT
Brilliant update, Paul. Funny how they rot in different places - the boot floor area is fine on the one I'm working on.
When you dropped the rear suspension, did any of the bolts into the alloy carrier break? I've done this twice and broken a bolt each time and I'm about to drop the offside suspension unit, so my expectations of a clean removal are low.
Centre membrane is a nice easy one - no-one's going to see it, so just plate it up good and solid.
Chris.
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 19, 2014 7:34:09 GMT
Brilliant update, Paul. Funny how they rot in different places - the boot floor area is fine on the one I'm working on. When you dropped the rear suspension, did any of the bolts into the alloy carrier break? I've done this twice and broken a bolt each time and I'm about to drop the offside suspension unit, so my expectations of a clean removal are low. Centre membrane is a nice easy one - no-one's going to see it, so just plate it up good and solid. Chris. Hi Chris Yeah i know i seem to have all the usually rust places but in different states of repair, i hope the driveres side is better but i don't hold much hope. Yes the outside nut would not come undone,tried every trick in the book to release it but it was stubborn as hell and as you know the most awkward, in the end i had to grind the head off with a dremel and take the carrier to work to remove the stud, had to drill and extract but surprisingly the thread was saved. The back 2 bolt i also had trouble with as the captive nut sheared, so as you can probably see the modification i have mage for when it goes back on, (bolt welded to bit of thick plate). As for the membrane, i am going to manufacture 2 lifting point brackets for this side and weld them on, as i was only able to purchase the drivers side membrane. And then fix the membrane to the inner sill and hopoefully attach to the outer sill at both ends and anywere in the middle my mig will get to, this should be strong enough, at least compared to how it was as nothing was connected to anything due to rust mites. Keep going it will soon be over, and then we can enjoy our friuts of labour with piece of mind thats it wont calapse if somebody hits me, knowing my luck that will happen and after all this work i think i would probably kill the person if it ever did happen. Paul |
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Post by bullyboy on Apr 9, 2014 7:14:47 GMT
Here we go latest update jacking points new jacking points manufactured, datum point measured from what existing   front and back  New method of strengthening the holes     rear point done  now to tackle the front    front plate cut out and jacking plate attached  job done  Now getting ready to put new complete sill on, a bit of weld titivation, plenty of zinc spray and underseal. Then i can complete each and job done, well one side anyway, turn car around and do the other side which should be quicker as i now know what to expect and how to do it. Paul |
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