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Post by bullyboy on Oct 15, 2013 12:15:56 GMT
HI All
I am just about to embark on a complete car overhaul after the last mot and other works that have i have done, it looks like there has been some dodgy repairs and metal mice within the car.
The question is, would anybody on here have a rotissorie(i think thats how you spell it)that i could borrow/rent for a few months(if you don't ask).
I will be removing all the trim, engine, glass etc to bring it up to a better standard and more showable.The engine bay will be smartened up and all mechanicals chaecked and replaced if necessary.
Its a nice looking base car and hopefully i can do it justice.
I will take some photo's when i start and keep a build file
Cheers Paul
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Post by Nick RS on Oct 15, 2013 21:07:55 GMT
Paul,
I haven't got the equipment you need but hope the overhaul goes well. It's a good looking car and if it's the one I am thinking of, I investigated buying it when it was for sale last year near Manchester. If I got it wrong please forgive me, just rambling
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 15, 2013 23:16:13 GMT
Hi Paul,
She doesn't look too bad as she is! I take it the problems lie underneath? A spit would have been nice when we did mine, but instead we learnt to weld upside down. Which was nice...
I look forward to the pictures and your progress.
Chris.
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Post by bullyboy on Oct 16, 2013 7:06:55 GMT
Paul, I haven't got the equipment you need but hope the overhaul goes well. It's a good looking car and if it's the one I am thinking of, I investigated buying it when it was for sale last year near Manchester. If I got it wrong please forgive me, just rambling Nick Hi Nick yes it probably was the one about a year and a half ago, good car just has some minor issues that i am not happy with. Suspect osf has had a new wing but the wheel does quite sit right in the arch, may have had a knock but not sure the guy i bought it from Greg Juster (he was on LOCI) was very passionate about the car but did not mention anything about it, but i would have bought i any way and it still drives well it can only get better. Paul |
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Post by bullyboy on Oct 16, 2013 7:10:39 GMT
Hi Paul, She doesn't look too bad as she is! I take it the problems lie underneath? A spit would have been nice when we did mine, but instead we learnt to weld upside down. Which was nice... I look forward to the pictures and your progress. Chris. Hi Chris Yes most of the issue are underneath and not sure what i am going to find, upside down welding was great 20 years ago, now 45 not really looking forward to it, but it gets me out of the house it may just take long for me to recover, may have to ask the wife to check on me every 30 mins to make sure i haven't fell asleep under the car or just stuck thier with muscle cramps. Will post when i start Paul |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 16, 2013 9:44:12 GMT
Paul, I'm envious you may have seen the pics of all that is available for me here? I will be farming out the welding as (a) I'm not very good at it (b) at 65 the aches and pains are much worse than 45! There is a story that the pre-production 1800s would allow the wheel to move back in the wheel arch under very heavy braking and they apparently straightened them by tying the towing hook or bumper to a tree with a chain and reversing the car hard! Production cars were strengthened with a reinforcing plate, but I've never been clear what actually bent. If this story is true then I guess a bit of research may help you get the wheel realigned if that is the issue. Regards David Hi Chris Yes most of the issue are underneath and not sure what i am going to find, upside down welding was great 20 years ago, now 45 not really looking forward to it, Paul |
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Post by bullyboy on Oct 16, 2013 14:53:22 GMT
Paul, I'm envious you may have seen the pics of all that is available for me here? I will be farming out the welding as (a) I'm not very good at it (b) at 65 the aches and pains are much worse than 45! There is a story that the pre-production 1800s would allow the wheel to move back in the wheel arch under very heavy braking and they apparently straightened them by tying the towing hook or bumper to a tree with a chain and reversing the car hard! Production cars were strengthened with a reinforcing plate, but I've never been clear what actually bent. If this story is true then I guess a bit of research may help you get the wheel realigned if that is the issue. Regards David Thanks for that Dave i will try and find some info Paul |
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Post by threelitre on Oct 17, 2013 8:50:21 GMT
Didn't they first try to sell the cars without the tie-rod fitted to the front suspension? On the Maxi (and Princess) a revised design was fitted that finally got rid of the tie-rod...
Regards,
Alexander
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 17, 2013 9:48:04 GMT
I'm not sure. In the manual it tells you not to even let the suspension take the weight of the car without the tie rod connected. I have read that a reinforcing plate was designed and welded in place and that Issigonis had been warned about this weakness but chose to ignore his engineers (I'll try and find the article if I can) Update: It is described in the LOCI magazine Vol 21 2010 pages 13-14 and extract from Barney Sharratt's book "The Austin" but I am still not clear exactly which piece this is. Didn't the Maxi locate the suspension by what is effectively a tie-rod pivoted on the floor pan or am I getting confused with my Saabs  . I believe this may have been because the 1800 tie rods forced the suspension and wheel backwards in the event of a frontal collision. Does anyone know why there is a polythene gasket between the tie rod bracket and gusset plate? Difficult to know the truth after such a long time. Regards David Didn't they first try to sell the cars without the tie-rod fitted to the front suspension? On the Maxi (and Princess) a revised design was fitted that finally got rid of the tie-rod... Regards, Alexander |
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Post by threelitre on Oct 17, 2013 12:44:29 GMT
Didn't the Maxi locate the suspension by what is effectively a tie-rod pivoted on the floor pan or am I getting confused with my Saabs . I believe this may have been because the 1800 tie rods forced the suspension and wheel backwards in the event of a frontal collision. The Maxi has a lower wishbone looking like a manky 'T', very much like many modern(ish) cars with McPherson struts. The upper arm is similar to the 1800s, housed in the subframe of course. Regards, Alexander |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 18, 2013 1:38:17 GMT
Thanks Alexander. It's probably a more sensible and safer approach but does restrict your ability to tune the castor angle should you so desire. Regards David The Maxi has a lower wishbone looking like a manky 'T', very much like many modern(ish) cars with McPherson struts. The upper arm is similar to the 1800s, housed in the subframe of course. Regards, Alexander |
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Post by bullyboy on Oct 27, 2013 19:37:41 GMT
Well I started the strip down this weekend, interior out and started on the engine, i am now officially worried, it's not looking good, the plan to be back on the road for next april might be a bit ambitious, i will post some photos in the next couple of days/
Paul
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 27, 2013 19:55:54 GMT
Good luck! I've started uploading stuff into the "Rust" sub-forum if you want to get really worried!  Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 28, 2013 1:37:52 GMT
Interesting. While it appears some of the rust areas are common to countries with and without salt, the initial observation is that the box sections ie sills, cross members are less prone to structural rust here in Thailand (I'll probably be proved horribly wrong if I ever manage to get this car!). I would have thought that the main difference would be the seams? Regards David Good luck! I've started uploading stuff into the "Rust" sub-forum if you want to get really worried! Chris. |
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Post by bullyboy on Oct 28, 2013 19:31:02 GMT
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. I believe this may have been because the 1800 tie rods forced the suspension and wheel backwards in the event of a frontal collision. 
