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OKR
Sept 17, 2020 21:46:40 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 17, 2020 21:46:40 GMT
Thanks Chris. I will give the circle method a go as its quite a difference! I have had good success with the copper butt weld sections and am about to do the plug welds on the upper most piece of my repair. As you say the grinder has been my friend! I am really pleased with the results though using copper. I have probably flatted it a bit too much fot maximum strength but I will finish off the important butt welds with another pass from the outside and cover that with underseal. Will post some pics when I get a chance. Nick
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OKR
Dec 30, 2020 23:24:02 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Dec 30, 2020 23:24:02 GMT
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OKR
Dec 30, 2020 23:38:13 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Dec 30, 2020 23:38:13 GMT
Something else! Two things. The oil cooler is in the way of where I want to put the Air-con condenser and also it has never had a oil temp thermostat which is probably not best so kill two birds with one stone! You may cringe at where I am going to put it but no choice and a sump guard will cover it just I hope! New pipework with stat installed. Currently a loop fitted to test it so far. Now in the process of making a bracket to bolt the oil cooler rad to. Nick
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 2:47:49 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Dec 31, 2020 2:47:49 GMT
You've certainly been busy. Issigonis was proud of keeping the crab so compact, even if he had thought of air conditioning I imagine he would have dismissed it as unnecessary. I hope you don't need to get to the distributor too often!
David
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 9:19:53 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Dec 31, 2020 9:19:53 GMT
Nice job on the welding, Nick. Looks familiar!
Chris.
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 10:32:55 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Dec 31, 2020 10:32:55 GMT
I hope I don't either David! I will attempt to make it so I can move the condensor out of the way without removing the gas but this may not be possible as it only just fits in! It will be a pig to get to anything but cars are unpleasantly hot without aircon here. Its a must to make it useable in summer! You wait till you see where I am putting the compressor! Nick You've certainly been busy. Issigonis was proud of keeping the crab so compact, even if he had thought of air conditioning I imagine he would have dismissed it as unnecessary. I hope you don't need to get to the distributor too often! David
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 10:36:05 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Dec 31, 2020 10:36:05 GMT
Thanks for the advice Chris it did wonders for my neatness. The copper trick was a real gem! Nick Nice job on the welding, Nick. Looks familiar! Chris.
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 13:14:45 GMT
Post by andrewa on Dec 31, 2020 13:14:45 GMT
Greetings from Plague Island - as I understand we're now known by the rest of the world. Glad to see you haven't been loafing! Yet more parallels with the jolly old Bristol! Many Aussie Bristol owners also seem to deem aircon mandatory and the favoured way appears to be to use the the Prado/Landcruiser compressor and rad or the Vintage Air aftermarket setup. Am also having some "minor" rust attended to but to get to it you've first to remove etched ally sill covers, then ally curved pretty bit of bodywork before you get to a curved steel outer cill, behind which is a massive box section. Putting it all back together again will be interesting as many bits will have to be remade from scratch. Am learning about galvanic corrosion and may not be quite so keen to drive it on salty roads in the future... Model A is also "in build" at the mo...hit a pothole hard and bent the 90 year old front axle....been waiting for repro item from the States for nearly two months now.....it's got as far as Folkestone I believe and is now sat there....hopefully unloading and sending it on will be deemed an essential business. Needless to say this has also necessitated new steering arms, spindles, kingpins etc etc. Once at least one old car is working again I'm looking forward to getting back out there. Youngest daughter works in care home and there is no public transport that ties in with any of her shifts, so I have a reasonable excuse to be out and about in an old car - should I need one. Cheers for now. Andrew
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OKR
Dec 31, 2020 23:03:36 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Dec 31, 2020 23:03:36 GMT
Hi Andrew Blighty is a bit like that at the moment! Mum and Dad are over it! My sister is involved with the vaccination program and is very pleased the Oxford vac is now approved. She said the Pfizer one is a real pain, time consuming and difficult to handle. I feel very lucky to live in Queensland! Yes cars without aircon are a bit unpleasant here it is really a must. I am probably going to curse making the engine bay even more full. It will be like working on most new small cars where everything is in the way! Hopefully you will have the Bristol or Model A out soon! You have got to expect a bit of rust with disimilar metals, salted roads and old cars. Man it must have been some pot hole. Ouch! I did a similar thing with a two year old work vehicle many many years ago and they almost wrote it off! The whole of the near side suspension and subframe, the steering rack tyre and rim was toast! Mind you I was driving like an idiot! One of my daughters has just passed her driving test so I was thinking the opposite, that it is good not to have to taxi her around! Funny world at the moment!
Happy New Year anyway guys.
Nick
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OKR
Jan 2, 2021 1:00:54 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 2, 2021 1:00:54 GMT
First step to fitting the oil cooler where I want it is to find somewhere to bolt a bracket! The MK3 gearbox has these that I assume were to somewhat protect the bottom of the gearbox. As noted by me having to file them flat again to get rid of all the damage from hitting objects! Forgot a before picture! Both drilled and tapped to fit a big UNC Bolt. I am going to bolt a piece of steel across the two, then weld on uprights that bolt to the gearbox flange bolts. As luck would have it there is a set that match were I need the uprights! This is as far as I have got so far. I am not sure how many of the gearboxes have this feature perhaps just MK3's, as they are not there on the Oz MK2 boxes I have. Although Oz cars have sump guards so I hope this is not a clearance issue I am going to have! I am going to have to test fit a sump guard next I think. On to other things. I have W6 seats in this car as they are recliners but one of the hinges was broken and welded together on the drivers seat. No more reclining. A while ago I acquired a spare set of reclining Oz seats because I wanted to keep the feature. Easy swap out and no repairs required! Wrong! The Oz seat rails are spaced different to the UK ones so although the brackets would fit the positions don't match! Ahh! So now in the process of repairing the seat using a cut off reclining hinge from an Oz seat. The hinge is a slightly different design but has the same operation and shape in the important areas. I will take some photos of the progress when I get back to it. Oz seat runners have some upgrades. They are much thicker and the latch is on both runners. I shall be using these on the repaired W6 seats. UK type from the W6 seat. It seems there were quite a few upgrades that the Oz guys did! Nick
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OKR
Jan 2, 2021 1:08:50 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 2, 2021 1:08:50 GMT
This is a test mod to an old cover plate for an oil primer upgrade I have done. You can see the primer pump in the previous pictures tucked behind the carbs. Nick
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OKR
Jan 2, 2021 3:49:50 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 2, 2021 3:49:50 GMT
That's interesting, how does the oil priming work? I think some of the Oz changes were to increase the local content as well as making the cars more durable to handle the rougher roads of the time. Are you using a standard Oz sump guard on your Mk111? I believe the Oz cars ride height was changed too when this was fitted?
David
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OKR
Jan 2, 2021 8:01:12 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 2, 2021 8:01:12 GMT
Hi David Yes I have an Oz sump guard to put on. You loose around about 2" of ground clearance from what I can see so it is no surprise they changed the ride height. The oil primer pump is and idea I had many years ago and installed with good success on my Stag. It was in use until we took the car off the road a few years ago. The basic idea is to give oil pressure prior to turning the car over, to reduce the main source of engine wear. The Stag being a bit prone to that! On the Stag setup you turn on the ignition which starts the pump and as soon as the oil pressure light goes off a relay allows the starter motor to operate. Then when the ignition light goes out the pump goes off. I also fitted an override switch should there be any problems. Sometimes you need it when the engine is hot. It still works well. The crab setup will operate a little differently now I have the technology to produce a controller for it. Nick That's interesting, how does the oil priming work? I think some of the Oz changes were to increase the local content as well as making the cars more durable to handle the rougher roads of the time. Are you using a standard Oz sump guard on your Mk111? I believe the Oz cars ride height was changed too when this was fitted? David
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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 0:23:31 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 3, 2021 0:23:31 GMT
I have also done some electrical upgrades to prepare for the air-con, which will use an electric compressor that can draw up to 70 amps. Also as mentioned a while ago I am replacing as many connectors as possible with Deutsch fittings. First thing I wanted was a main circuit breaker. If you think about a front end accident the starter motor positive is more or less where the bodywork might end up giving a nice big short circuit. 200amp circuit breaker fitted. I may have over done the amperage rating. I will probably have to double check that! You can see a Deutsch in front of the starter solenoid that is for the Temp and Oil pressure wiring. The yellow arrow points at a Midi Fuse holder with a 40 amp midi that supplies the fuses on the bulk head. I have had wiring melt down on this feed wire because of damaging the insulation of the wiring loom. This was by welding on the inner wing under the wheel arch forgetting the loom was behind! This is a 100amp midi for the feed wire to the air-con compressor location. Yellow arrow. The two braided looking wires are for spot lights and the condenser fan supply. Trying to think ahead! All the existing wires have been replaced with fat stuff (blue) with spiral wrap for protection, including the one from the alternator. This is in anticipation of fitting a 120amp unit from a Landcruiser that has a double V belt pulley. I don't really want to have to change to a serpentine belt that most big alternators seem to have! Nick
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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 1:31:58 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 3, 2021 1:31:58 GMT
The oil primer would be ideal after a major engine overhaul to get the pressure up before starting the engine especially with all the issues with camshafts nowadays when those first few seconds can be critical.
I like the professional wiring and thought that has gone into it. One question about the spiral wrap, the only stuff I can find here has gets soft at moderate temperatures, have you managed to find a nylon or similar version?
David
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