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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 3:16:17 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 3, 2021 3:16:17 GMT
I have had the spiral wrap for a long time and actually don't know what it is made of, but it seems to stand up to a heat gun quite well. I confess that this may not be enough for an Queensland engine bay but nothing ventured at this stage! I may yet regret it! As for the oil primer it is a bit over kill David but this car takes forever to pick up oil pressure when it has been sitting for a while. It was never an issue before because I used it every day. Plus as you know I like the unusual and also a challenge! I think it may be the Mk3 filter arrangement causing it and I am sure there is an easier way to improve it but the mod worked well on the Stag so why not! Nick The oil primer would be ideal after a major engine overhaul to get the pressure up before starting the engine especially with all the issues with camshafts nowadays when those first few seconds can be critical. I like the professional wiring and thought that has gone into it. One question about the spiral wrap, the only stuff I can find here has gets soft at moderate temperatures, have you managed to find a nylon or similar version? David
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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 6:02:22 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 3, 2021 6:02:22 GMT
I've now found RS components stock the spiral wrap in two materials and several sizes. Polyethylene is only good for 65C and Nylon >100C. Thanks your post stimulated me into being able to sort out a problem with the older of my Toyotas.
David
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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 22:46:39 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 3, 2021 22:46:39 GMT
I hope it works out on your Toyota! Do you have something rubbing? Thanks for the tip for where to get some as I used all the stuff I had on the car. It will save me tracking it down! RS are very useful for lots of stuff. We have quite a big Jaycar in town which is useful too. Nick I've now found RS components stock the spiral wrap in two materials and several sizes. Polyethylene is only good for 65C and Nylon >100C. Thanks your post stimulated me into being able to sort out a problem with the older of my Toyotas. David
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OKR
Jan 3, 2021 23:05:02 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 3, 2021 23:05:02 GMT
I put on the sump guard temp to see how it is all going to fit. Yep those handy bits to bolt on the oil cooler that are missing on the Oz boxes are missing for clearance! Bummer more mods! Its very close and I have skimmed a bit more off this one and the nut! I will ditch the washer for a thin one I think. This is with the front of the Guard sitting on top of the nuts not underneath like it should be so it would be nearly touching. I will have to put a bit more bend in the sump Guard and put a couple of spacers in to get enough clearance by the looks of it. Not much I can do at the rear fixing. I have fitted the bigger Oz front engine mounts and it has a top and bottom steady on the back mount like the S so the engine doesn't move much even so more clearance will have to be found! The sump Guard comes down to around the same height at the exhaust branch so all up I probably haven't lost any ground clearance. In fact it probably helps me not smash up the exhaust. Nick
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OKR
Jan 4, 2021 1:41:54 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 4, 2021 1:41:54 GMT
The old truck is similar to the one Clarkson tried to destroy and overhauling the aircon system used copy parts that are not quite the same so I needed to protect the hoses from rubbing against the steel pipes. I've bought some stuff from Jaycar, they have an interesting catalogue but tend to be a bit expensive like quite a lot of things in Oz in the electronic field. David I hope it works out on your Toyota! Do you have something rubbing? Thanks for the tip for where to get some as I used all the stuff I had on the car. It will save me tracking it down! RS are very useful for lots of stuff. We have quite a big Jaycar in town which is useful too. Nick
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OKR
Jan 15, 2021 5:50:52 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 15, 2021 5:50:52 GMT
After quite a bit of messing around with the position I have managed to squeeze in the oil cooler. Just! I was starting to think it was not going to happen without a different size rad, but got there in the end. I still have to put a bit more bend in the sump guard so it will end up a bit better than the photo shows. I may also have to fit a shroud to help the air flow into it as the back/bottom is a little close to the gearbox. Happy so far though at is seems to work OK. First piece in place. This is the initial attempt at the RH rad attachment with the bottom bent in and sitting on the cross piece. The bolt for the LH side did not line up with the location of the drop so I attached piece to be able to bolt it to the nearest gearbox bolt. I did a trial sump guard fitting and found no way was it going to fit in this position. I had to re-bend the brackets to sit on top of the cross piece. Also add some length at the top. This is a new piece as the first one was too short to be reused. Again a trial fitting and still needed quite a bit more. Here I have put an extra bend in them to tuck the rad in closer to the gearbox at the bottom and bring the rad a bit higher up. This worked and the trial fit at this point is shown in the first picture. Fitted some captive nuts and painted. Rad attached and nice and snug! Hopefully I can get the horns back somewhere! One connection is solid the other side has a short bit of hose that you can't see in the photo. The RH hose coming in from the top is from the electric pump the LH one is from the engine pump. The brass tee is fitted with a one way valve inside that directs the oil into the filter. The one way valve stops the engine oil pump pushing oil back through the electric pump. The other way does not matter. I then spent a little while wondering why the oil pressure light was not working when I put on the ignition! Then it struck me that I had just used the electric pump to jack up the oil pressure. It takes a while for the pressure to fall back from the 70psi that the electric pump pushes up to. Doh! To start with I am going to connect the pump to an on/off switch so I can use it straight away. It will take me a while to work out a control unit. It remains to be seen if it is worth the effort on this car although I think the oil cooler is a bit of a must here in Qld. I think on my Stag it has been a good thing to have, but the crabs are somewhat more robust! Nick
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OKR
Jan 15, 2021 9:36:09 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 15, 2021 9:36:09 GMT
Well done a lot of hard work. I guess you are good at packing suitcases too!
There are plenty of 12v programmable small cheap timer units on Ebay that you could use to switch the electric oil pump on for a few seconds after the ignition is turned on (using the oil pressure warning light to trigger it off if you wish). In practice you would need to use the output from the low current on board relay to drive a more substantial one to power the motor.
Another simpler option would be to use the warning light feed to turn on a power transistor or MOSFET to run the motor - or just keep it simple with the manual switch!
(Unfortunately Jaycar don't seem to stock cheap timer modules.)
David
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OKR
Jan 15, 2021 23:30:00 GMT
via mobile
Post by 1800heap on Jan 15, 2021 23:30:00 GMT
Not sure about suitcases but I can pack a bit into the dishwasher! Thats a good idea with the timer. I have an old timer card from Tactical Technologies Australia already from work. I think it even uses a pic chip which I might be able to do something with. I will have to use a MOSFET though rather than a relay. I am using a variable bench power supply for testing and I only need to run it at 5 volts. The pump has more than enough power to do the job at 5 volts. For the Stag setup I wound a ballast resistor to lower the voltage. It has relays as you suggested via the ignition and oil pressure lights. I am thinking about replacing the oil pressure switch with a transducer so that I can also stop the engine at a low oil pressure to prevent damage. That way if I get a hole in the cooler I am not going to kill the engine. Lots of thinking to do. Nick Well done a lot of hard work. I guess you are good at packing suitcases too! There are plenty of 12v programmable small cheap timer units on Ebay that you could use to switch the electric oil pump on for a few seconds after the ignition is turned on (using the oil pressure warning light to trigger it off if you wish). In practice you would need to use the output from the low current on board relay to drive a more substantial one to power the motor. Another simpler option would be to use the warning light feed to turn on a power transistor or MOSFET to run the motor - or just keep it simple with the manual switch! (Unfortunately Jaycar don't seem to stock cheap timer modules.) David
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OKR
Jan 16, 2021 6:07:47 GMT
Post by dave1800 on Jan 16, 2021 6:07:47 GMT
Maybe safer to sound a loud warning buzzer if the oil pressure drops rather than cut the ignition. I wonder how sensitive the oil pressure is to a small leak in the oil cooler circuit? Maybe need some PIC programming to take into account the RPM and temperature?
David
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OKR
Jan 16, 2021 9:54:06 GMT
Post by Penguin45 on Jan 16, 2021 9:54:06 GMT
All clever stuff. What's with the hose doubled over?
Chris
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OKR
Jan 17, 2021 23:04:57 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 17, 2021 23:04:57 GMT
Yes perhaps that may be a better option David. With a pressure transducer I should be able to stage it. Buzzer then engine off if buzzer ignored for too long! Anyway that is going on the back burner for a while as I have to do some more welding! Nick Maybe safer to sound a loud warning buzzer if the oil pressure drops rather than cut the ignition. I wonder how sensitive the oil pressure is to a small leak in the oil cooler circuit? Maybe need some PIC programming to take into account the RPM and temperature? David
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OKR
Jan 17, 2021 23:08:23 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Jan 17, 2021 23:08:23 GMT
Hi Chris The kinked hose was only to stop oil coming out the rad connections when I tested the pump. This would have been a better picture to use! The kinked hose is replaced with the rad connections. Nick All clever stuff. What's with the hose doubled over? Chris
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OKR
Jan 18, 2021 20:15:31 GMT
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Post by jeff on Jan 18, 2021 20:15:31 GMT
All that under dash work has given me inspiration and remotivated me to get a good job done. It's looking great.
Jeff
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OKR
Jan 19, 2021 3:08:45 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 19, 2021 3:08:45 GMT
Its a pain and some parts it helps to be a contorsionist but checking the wiring is well worth the effort for reliability I think. It is possible to tidy up the parcil shelf as well. Super glue is good stuff. I used both thin and thick Zapp super glue to do it. Be prepaired to stick your fingers together though! Nick All that under dash work has given me inspiration and remotivated me to get a good job done. It's looking great. Jeff
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OKR
Jan 19, 2021 22:32:25 GMT
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Post by jeff on Jan 19, 2021 22:32:25 GMT
I've been revisiting your parcel shelf and now I'm really inspired. Being a MK1, mines full width so could be a bit more to consider. I quite fancy buying a roll of millboard from Woolies and using the old one as a pattern. Did you leave the bottom crash rail in place? Looking at the WM, the steering column and parking brake have to be released if it all has to come out. Yours looks great, especially with the lights. I think I will copy that idea if you dont mind.
Jeff
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