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Post by bullyboy on Aug 12, 2016 14:53:57 GMT
Nice work guys
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Post by bullyboy on Jun 2, 2016 6:53:52 GMT
It's looking great. I would be scared to touch it! Thanks for the pics. David Now in the garage waiting for me top start the rebuild without scratching it hopefully Paul I am crapping myself, already chipped it putting the gutter trim on, luckily my mate at the body shop wants it back to touch up and polish when i have built it, shouldn't be too bad hopefully. Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Jun 1, 2016 11:29:59 GMT
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Post by bullyboy on May 31, 2016 15:05:02 GMT
Any more news from the bodyshop? Cheers Andrew Hi yes just got it back friday will post some photo tomorrow PAUL
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Post by bullyboy on Apr 19, 2016 6:45:17 GMT
Good stuff, Paul. Power unit is really looking the business. Another couple of months? Chris. Hopefully
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Post by bullyboy on Apr 18, 2016 11:18:31 GMT
Latest update for you all, still not got the car back yet from the body shop yet but hopefully shouldn't be too long so been busy on other things a lot of work trying to get the gaps better Gutters repaired Front end welded on Brake servo rebuilt, loads of items cleaned and painted and ready to go I will update when i know more Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 22, 2016 12:27:08 GMT
Well done happy crabbing
Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 22, 2016 12:25:15 GMT
Hi Paul. I have had one last over 100K but that included lot of motorway driving. There are some obvious things you can do to extend the life including always taking the car out of gear when stopped in traffic and removing your foot from the clutch pedal, not slipping the clutch more than necessary when taking off, matching engine rpm with a blip of the throttle on downshifts and using the brakes rather than changing down a gear when safe to do so. Perhaps not so obvious is the need to ennsure the master and slave cylinders are in good order and not sticking. Any excess pressure in the line will hold the crb against the clutch harder and increase wear. After that you are at the mercy of the quality of the carbon which has been variable in recent years. When replacing a crb I know it's too late now as you've done it then you should check the actuating arm to ensure it is not bent or worn and that the clips are located properly to ensure the carbon is absolutely parallel to the clutch cover. One for Chris: given your experience with the roller crb would you recommend the mod to allow clutch adjustment for a carbon bearing? regards David Thanks Dave for that, i have checked all is well and seems good, also that the clips are in the right place. I have have the slave/master cylinder refurbished with new st/st sleeves so they should be fine. So hopefully alls good. Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 22, 2016 8:14:56 GMT
Hi ALL I have replaced mine as it was getting very low, just one question how long do these carbon bearing usually last?
Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 10, 2016 8:07:48 GMT
For the shift cables, I did the same on mine, what I used is a heat shrink tubing made for burial electrical wire spices. I banded an extra piece at each end to make sure the ends didn't leak. The electrical shrink tubing also has a sticky inner coating which adheres to the cable when heated. I bought it in 48 inch pieces and was able to encase the entire cable. Hi Yes i have seen that aswell, i think i have a data sheet for that aswell, i think it the same material as the sheet i used but just in convient tubes. I think i have some left i will see what i have got and offer it on here. I know its not cheap but i bought it in bulk load so not sure of individual price. Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 9, 2016 18:15:31 GMT
Hi all just an update on the camshaft situation, i bought a new cam from mgb hive an 88g303 which gives the same lift as the S but without the mech pump lobe. I pulled the lobe of the old cam and had the new cam machined to accept the interference fit lobe,hey presto 1800S cam The one i bought from MGB Hive, notice larger end to the left of the photo Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 9, 2016 7:53:33 GMT
Dupron.pdf (502.78 KB) Hi This is the data sheet, i will look for prices etc. soon PAul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 9, 2016 7:32:01 GMT
It's looking good, well done! Back on the road for the start of the good weather? Do you have details of the oil resistant shrink tubing, supplier, dimensions, price? I think there are a few people in Australia looking for an effective solution to the oil drips. regards David Hi David I will sort out the detials, it supplies from one of my maintenance suppliers, they told me it was meant for hash enviroment. I will dig out the data sheet. Thanks all for the positive comment they mean alot after ther work thats gone into it, i just hope it turn out as nice. Paul
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Post by bullyboy on Mar 8, 2016 8:09:44 GMT
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Post by bullyboy on Feb 23, 2016 11:44:49 GMT
It is the same as a standard MGB cam, but I don't think all MGB cams have lobe you need for the crab petrol pump. Anyway, when I rebuilt the engine they managed to move the lobe over from the old cam to the new one. It worked, too. So it can be done. It was just about the only thing they got right:-) Tommy. Hi I was told by Piper that moving the lobe was possible, and Chris i think your right the MGB is the 88g303. Tommy how did you remove the lobe? Snoopy yes i had a long conversation with Mark Swingler and Piper , piper say mild road should be ok for normal running and even to a degree a fast road, but i am still undecided which way to go, if i can get an the original i will go that way but the option above the 88g303 and move the lobe might be the way Paul
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