wolseley1800
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Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 24, 2016 21:01:08 GMT
Lets work this through. 1, Pressure on pedal. 2, Vacuum valve opens. 3, The air in vacuum body is sucked into the manifold after the carb. 4, This will reduce the airflow through the carb - there is a set volume of air dragged into the cylinder. 5, Increasing pressure in venturi. 6, Causing a reduction of fuel. So yes it runs weaker, but only for a moment then all returns to normal until the pedal is pressed further or the next operation.
Ironically, letting off pressure will increase petrol.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
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Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 24, 2016 20:27:42 GMT
Ok, time and experience count so will consider this next time. As for the service bulletin, nothing in the ones I have.
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wolseley1800
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Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 22, 2016 23:01:40 GMT
Would only grease splines, preferably with an anti seizure type. Why make life harder. Maybe worth reminding people to first use a thick flat washer to tighten the hub then remove it and tighten against the cone. If there is no wear in the splines then it should be assembled in the same position (so mark it), however is there is wear a different position can be tried. If this does not cure the problem it may be that the preload on the wheel bearings is incorrect and this is critical. The quote figure is 0-4 thou but in practice this is difficult to measure. You should just be able to feel it. I believe that the shims for the ball joints are the correct diameter to help obtain the correct clearance if it is too tight. The advice in the w/s manual is to tighten to allow the split pin to be fitted to the next hole, not back off? That's what you indicated in an earlier post. Am I misunderstanding? Use of Loctite on the splines and hub nut worth considering. David Was thinking about the squeak on way t'house. Since cone washers are new could be the hub worn or as I suggested, may just need torquing up. No not F.T. but with a proper wrench (wrench not wench). I got the socket and wrench if needed. For those that do not know, the correct torque on the hub is vital. The MOT tester should try to fail it on loose wheel bearing. Trick is to over-torque then release and put correct on. this way you have a better chance of settling it all down. If split pin hole does not line up it is better to undo rather then tighten. Another point is not to grease the stubshaft threads as this can give a false reading. Degrease it and nut and fit dry. Sorry to preach to the converted but some one may thank me as the split cones are rarer than hens teeth.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 11, 2016 22:33:29 GMT
Was thinking about the squeak on way t'house. Since cone washers are new could be the hub worn or as I suggested, may just need torquing up. No not F.T. but with a proper wrench (wrench not wench). I got the socket and wrench if needed.
For those that do not know, the correct torque on the hub is vital. The MOT tester should try to fail it on loose wheel bearing. Trick is to over-torque then release and put correct on. this way you have a better chance of settling it all down. If split pin hole does not line up it is better to undo rather then tighten. Another point is not to grease the stubshaft threads as this can give a false reading. Degrease it and nut and fit dry.
Sorry to preach to the converted but some one may thank me as the split cones are rarer than hens teeth.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Nov 7, 2011 22:29:13 GMT
Been slack since I was last here but now got me backside in gear. Spent this weekend trying to find a short on the dash. When I turned the side lights on the green indicator lights can on. Indicators still worked but wrong way round. When i took of the indicators earths the dash lights went out BUT the indicators worked but on 1 light . After 2 days of checking connections etc. I found the problem when I lent on the steering wheel. Just a bad earth on the column. While the dash was off I fitted block connections to tidy things up. Will post photos later
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jun 1, 2011 19:51:14 GMT
Found the lid on the back seat under a sheet and front seats.
Had to fit an electric pump cos the cam has no pump lobe. Nearly ready for the mot but still lots to do.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jun 1, 2011 19:41:27 GMT
Nice one, had a series 3 1300 and was brill. Watch the suspension gas ball, they go porous and leak very slowly. One way round is to fit tyre valves
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 24, 2011 21:59:18 GMT
If a member wants a point raising it has to be raisedand if enough people want progress then the committee has to comply. The committee is there for the benifit of the members not the other way round. I amno longer a member because I found a lot of them narow minded in many things.In fact Tony isthe only one I liked. 'Step off box'
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 14, 2011 19:29:00 GMT
It is possible to use late 'B' series head gaskets on the early engine but not the other way around. This is because the later head gasket has extra holes in it - for the oil if I remember correctly. This also applies for most of the other engine gaskets.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 11, 2011 20:29:04 GMT
Why have you got a hut on your roof? ;D
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 9, 2011 18:17:30 GMT
Forgot to mention,
Some early bearing assemblies had a distance washer with spacers so the bearing does not go too far into the hub. Can not see them in the parts catalogue but are mention in the service manual.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 9, 2011 17:59:05 GMT
I do not know if you know this but...
When you are refitting front hubs you have to tighten them initially with out the cone washers fitted. You have to use a large thick washer or tool 18G 1104.
when hub flange located properly fit the cone washer. Torque to 150 lb.ft. (20.74 kg.m.). If the split pin hole needs moving always tighten and never loosen the nut. If this does not cure it then you will need new cones - see Tony - landcrab.net
If he does not have any try hens teeth, they are easier to find.
Hope this helps
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 8, 2011 0:05:28 GMT
Hi,
others will add to this but as a guide £400. Tony has most of the parts needed , although good second hand. Engine bits are basically MGB
The rare bits its are jacking panels for the sills, outer sills are the same as the maxi and the exhaust for the 'S'
Problems are Rust: mainly the norm; sills, wheel arches wings (around lights) and bonnet front as on the eday one. Suspention parts are available, units rarely give up - problems are normally the metal connecting pipe, replaced with rubber ones from Tony
Gearboxes are bomb proof (used to convert V8s to FWD) but problems engaging will more likely be the cables, from Tony.
Over heating is normally due to crud in the system so a good flush through is the cure.
One thing to remember is always ring Tony for prices as Ebay is usually over priced.
Hope this helps
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 7, 2011 18:57:25 GMT
I am confused because you say the new one will not fit. If you look at the pic you can see the new mount fits in the same holes. Is this the mount as fitted to the car? I have since removed the shock as this lets me fit a larger battery (075)
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 7, 2011 18:31:38 GMT
Yeh, all the best. 1 less year to ride the bike
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