wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 13, 2017 22:26:07 GMT
Not good if quiz master does not know the cars. Car 1 is not a Toledo unless it has been modified It is the 1854 or Sprint Toledos and 1500s had single square lights, Toledos also are shorted.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 13, 2017 22:11:20 GMT
My Dad, (ex REME, BMC trained etc), always said to panic if you can not hear the tappets on the 'A' or 'B' series engine. That is unles it was "blue printed".
I use the auto click adjuster, so much better as it allows you to allow for play.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 7, 2017 18:24:47 GMT
As Chris wrote, we are putting it in as is.
Main question, apart from basic design and circlip, is there any difference between the differential gear. If not then things should just be fine.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Dec 13, 2016 22:47:07 GMT
If it was an hydraulic lock the damage depends on the engine speed. At high speed the worst is cracked head and/or block, bent conrods, stretched head bolts, etc. - total write off. Probably not valve damage At lower speeds not so bad. A hyd lock will be instantaneous. What you got sounds like a dropped valve that has caused something to penetrate the water jacket, probably the valve stem. As there is still water in the cylinder the piston is in one piece. The 270° turning also point to an obstruction in the cylinder - your valve. Afraid this sounds as it is gonna be expensive - maybe new engine. Wish you all the best luck, Your friendly harbinger of doom.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 30, 2016 21:45:28 GMT
OOPS, just saw the date.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 30, 2016 21:43:24 GMT
Well the engine's not out yet and welding work is not going as quick as I'd hoped! Although one side is almost done. To be fair I've added a few bits and bobs as I went along. I've had grand plans to rebuild the engine and gearbox but I must say apart from heavy mystery oil consumption there was nothing wrong with the way either the engine or gearbox operated. As I'm keen not to spend the national debt just yet I'm coming round to just putting it back in once the welding's done and enjoy using the car. Have toyed with the idea of Peter Burgess head and different cam whilst the engine's out but am concerned that up ing the power quite dramatically without checking out the bottom end may be asking for trouble. Gut feeling is to get back behind the wheel and if in 10 months I really feel I need more power, then do the job properly then. Any views opinions gratefully received. Cheers Having recently rebuild a couple of engines I would not worry too much about the gearbox. It is used to convert Rover V8 to FWD. As far a cams go, MGB ones are the recommended route if you are only using on road. Downside is you will have to fit an electric fuel pump. Electronic ignition is a good idea, I got an early 123 ignition with a choice of 16 curves. The latest is programmable with a laptop. Have fun
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 10, 2016 22:09:09 GMT
You be careful. Need the TR sorting, LOL
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 5, 2016 21:05:40 GMT
Found this on another site.
The correct tyre pressures depends on the weight of your car (including passengers and luggage so this will vary), and the size and make of tyres. You will need the following information to calculate correct PSI for any given combination:
(Gross) weight of vehicle load rating of tyres at max PSI (the sidewall will have this information - something like 600kg at 44 PSI etc)
For example, the weight of my legacy with some passengers and baggage I've worked out at 1700kg My Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD2s are rated for 545KG at 44 PSI so:
545kg x 4 = 2180kg (max load) 2180 (combined max load) ÷ 1700 (vehicle weight) = 1.28 44 (max tyre PSI) ÷ 1.28 = 34.31
So you should inflate your tyres to 34 PSI / 2.4 bar in that example.
Hope this helps
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 5, 2016 20:49:57 GMT
Use a Shrink Ray.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 5, 2016 20:46:45 GMT
It would also allow you to change the camshaft in situ if needed - unless you have an early Mk1 engine. Is there anything we may be able to advise on about the timing issue? David Am OK for now, if I need assistance I will ask. Cheers Chris, do you think you could make a similar setup with engine in?
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 4, 2016 22:28:55 GMT
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Oct 4, 2016 22:14:14 GMT
As requested Click hereAs you can see there is a panel on the passenger side that is removable. It is held in place with 4 self tappers, hence the question.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 26, 2016 22:12:15 GMT
I was thinking about modifying it like the one on the Six.
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 24, 2016 21:32:49 GMT
Does anyone know if the front inner wings are structural?
|
|
wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
|
Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 24, 2016 21:23:59 GMT
I run winter tyres all year on my cars except the disco which runs mud and snow.
I find they are better in rain, its like following a lorry with all the spray.
As for wear, average for norm tyres is about 30000 miles and about 25000 miles for winter.
The main difference is that norm tyres tend not to work properly below 7°C. Winter perform at zero.
|
|