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OKR
Oct 18, 2022 5:54:00 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 18, 2022 5:54:00 GMT
Ok I am at the stage of putting back the distributor, and after your thoughts about my cam with regards to timing David, I am thinking about what I need.
The old dizzy is a 41234A. It has a 15° cam and a couple of reasonably thick springs. It is also faulty by the looks of it, as it will not rotate all the way to 15°!
Anyway I have a selection of different 25D dizzys. I think I should start around the 1800S config, so I am thinking of a mix and match to try to get close with what I have.
In the mix I have 10°, 13° and 15° cams that I have found so far.
I have a 41234H in good condition but it is nothing like the 41234A above. It has a 10° cam and a very light primary spring.
I also have a 40770A and a 40897E and an Australian 29D 62941054A. I think I have a hitachi somewhere too.
So can anyone tell me to start with would it be an 11 or 12° cam in the 1800S 41238 dizzy from my reconing. Also what springs might be best.
I have a number of vac advance units as follows.
4-11-7
4-12-8
5-12-8
5-13-10
6-14-8
The one on the original dizzy is too rusted to tell what it was. Anyone tell me how the vac advance figures relate would be helpful too.
Nick
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OKR
Oct 15, 2022 4:54:47 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 15, 2022 4:54:47 GMT
No nothing as elaborate as that David. The design is purely governed by space and avoiding clashing with the rockers. Underneath there is a course stainless steel wool pad for damping and the aluminum holds that in place. In actual fact, now I have put a camera inside for a look at the space, I could have extended down the valve spring side too. No idea what the results will be so it may be a waste of time. Nick Hi Nick An interesting mod. Did you develop the design yourself with NVH software - I have not seen anything like that before. David
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OKR
Oct 14, 2022 20:30:14 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 14, 2022 20:30:14 GMT
Yes well I couldn't get the black I have been using so decided to go RED like the car! As for the question, I could be smart and say "The inside of the rocker cover!" That my friend is a small mod, as you might expect from me, that I hope will damp out some of the valve gear noise that the B engine makes. I already made a good reduction in noise by fitting the shims under the two middle posts. I hope this will cut out some more. Can't say I have seen it tried before, but hey nothing ventured and all that! There are a couple more small things. I found a tip online that says stick the cork to the box with a bead of silicone gasket sealant. It is a good tip, it is much easier to fit the cover to the engine now. Also I have welded on a couple of posts to the sides for pipe supports. Nick It certainly does!! What are we looking at here? David Well it stands out now! Nick
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OKR
Oct 14, 2022 6:22:37 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Oct 14, 2022 6:22:37 GMT
Well it stands out now! Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 1, 2022 0:52:37 GMT
Ditto Chris!
What has come to mind and may not be quite such a nightmare to do, and get approved, is a landrover defender style rag top 1800 Ute. Would also look a little better being 2 door and already has some of the strengthened areas required. Bit of a roll bar type of thing instead of the roof and hay it would probably look the goods if done well. You would then be able to see the sky without remortgaging the house!
Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 30, 2022 20:59:52 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 30, 2022 20:53:02 GMT
Hi Colin
Convertible Crab. Well thats an interesting challenge if you would like to drive it on the road legally! Easy to do if it is just for farm or offroad use on a property. In fact I have seen a wreck that was obviously used as a convertible on a farm. Never seen a road going convertible though so you might have a first if you do it. The best I have seen on a road going car is the webasto sun roof. I fact my W6 had one that opened up most of the roof area. Certainly an easier option.
The car would likely be still quite rigid with the roof removed so I can't see any major issues there. Unfortunately depending on where you live the engineering approval would be a nightmare I would think.
Nick
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OKR
Sept 28, 2022 20:30:56 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 28, 2022 20:30:56 GMT
Thanks Chris Thats an interesting question, no the blade tips don't have a very large angle of attack. It pushes air through very nicely yes. There are a couple of things that help though. There are 10 blades compared with 6 on the old one. Also the old one is designed to push air through at low rpm where the new one has much higher rpm. It is not limited to the engine revs. Props that go at a higher rpm tend to have a narrow section and a steeper angle near the root of the blade and it tapers off considerably towards the tip because of the angular speed. In the center of the rad where the motor is, there is not so much air flow but I don't think it will make any difference, as the outer flow is really good. I am actually thinking of trying David's idea and making the speed variable. To limit the fan noise at tickover and maintain a more stable coolant temp. I don't think it will need the air flow and the fan cycling will also be a dead give away! Nick Very neat, Nick. If no-one notices it, it'd almost be a shame. Doesn't seem to be much of an aerofoil section to the fan blade though. Blows plenty? Chris.
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OKR
Sept 28, 2022 7:15:44 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Sept 28, 2022 7:15:44 GMT
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OKR
Sept 22, 2022 20:01:29 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 22, 2022 20:01:29 GMT
Yes all trades are like that here too.
That is indeed probably all I am going to get. A secondary taco reading! Nick Is there no end to your skills? There's big money to be made in the UK from plumbing nowadays, is it the same there? If nothing else you should me able to monitor whether the spark plugs are firing . David
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OKR
Sept 22, 2022 19:58:47 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 22, 2022 19:58:47 GMT
Leyland one too! Nick That's a nice neat job. Good to see Wilmott Bredon playing a key part.* C. * Looks for coat, leaves...
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OKR
Sept 22, 2022 2:29:46 GMT
Post by 1800heap on Sept 22, 2022 2:29:46 GMT
Here are a few pictures of the temperature sensor heater port mod. I cut out a brass plate to start with. I ground out a bit for the bend to sit in as I wanted to make the connection a bit stronger. The bend is made from a compression elbow turned to make a suitable bend. I didn't take pictures of all the steps, but you should get the idea. The bend sits in ok, so it is ready to be silver soldered in. Silver solder completed. This made a nice strong join. I made a little plug for the sensor tube and that is also silver soldered on. Last bit of soldering, this time with soft solder. The two types of solder prevent the main joint falling apart (different melting temps) while soldering the sensor tube. I wanted to put it together in stages. It also allows me to easily desolder the sensor tube if I need to replace the sensors at any point. Check the fit. All good. Now I will have to work out the electrickery! Nick
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OKR
Sept 19, 2022 8:44:03 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 19, 2022 8:44:03 GMT
I looked at Mouser Australia and there handling was exorbitant. The part was quite expensive too, although they did have the LM135Z.
I went with RS in the end. Still a bit expensive for postage but with the unit cost at 90 cents each for a LM235Z I got 10 for $30 shipped. I have some spares at least.
Unfortunately Jaycar only have the LM335Z. I have a little pcb I made a while ago to suit the LM so that might save some effort.
I think I am going to put in an engine loom and go to one of the spare firewall plugs where the fuses are. I would like to make future engine removal as easy as possible.
I found some of the bigger spade receptacles on ebay which is handy. The fan and oil pump can go direct to them with the relay etc behind the dash.
Nick
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OKR
Sept 19, 2022 7:12:44 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 19, 2022 7:12:44 GMT
Good tip gentlemen thanks direct switch it is then.
I am currently looking at the position for the temperature sensor. I am going to leave the standard one alone. I think I will be able to put a second one in with the heater outlet on the front of the head. I have been trying to find the components. Looks like I will be making my own! I have decided to use a thermistor and an LM235Z in the same pocket. I will add a short tube beside the heater pipe going into the head. I would like to use an LM135Z but can't reasonably get them. Hopefully the 125°C rating will be ok. It will only be a secondary anyway.
I have found some good blades to. Still rotate the wrong way but the size is spot on.
I will keep you posted.
Nick
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OKR
Sept 17, 2022 20:28:34 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Sept 17, 2022 20:28:34 GMT
100% David, and I will have an override switch as a backup as you suggested.
I also wanted to make something that could be clipped in to connect the water pump pulley to the motor. In other words revert to engine powered fan. There is a problem with that though as the blades go the opposite way to the engine! Something I would like to change, but there is no such thing as a set that is pitched the opposite way. I would have to make my own! Apart from that there is another mechanical gotcha there too. Nick Stating the obvious the fan could stop working and the engine overheat! David
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