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Post by 1800heap on May 9, 2024 5:56:01 GMT
Hi Ian, There is no quick answer that is going to be helpful to you sadly. There are too many variables! Your answer lies in finding a dyno in your area that is familiar with HS6 carbs and get them to set the engine up properly. This includes the ignition advance curve. Otherwise you will be chasing your tail. It's the only way if you are looking to get the best out of your setup. Nick Evening All, Quick question for the folk out there running twin HS6’s and a sporty cam. Which needles are you using with which cam and why? I’ve got my new build up and running. I’m using a Kent 724 cam, which is their Hill Climb/High Torque cam. I’m using the needles I had with the MGB grind I had in the old motor. I know someone is going to ask what I already have, but I haven’t pulled them out to check yet. It’s running quite nicely now, just wondering if there’s a better set up. Ian
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OKR
May 7, 2024 6:12:51 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on May 7, 2024 6:12:51 GMT
Hi David, There are several extra relays and at present 6 circuit breakers, plus a couple of extra fuses. There are also some extras in the engine bay as well as a main battery circuit breaker. The three original fuses are retained. I attacked the old loom with the cutters mainly to remove the wrap. Most of the original setup has remained but with cleaned and checked connections. Any sus ones I have replaced. I have used all the spare firewall sockets so it looks like the extra stuff should be there. When I have the steering column back I will post another picture. I am thinking about horrifying everyone and fitting a stereo with a touch screen! Double din size. I am going to fill the normal single din spot with some other controls, so the new unit will go up top where the old style stereo cutout is. The one that is normally hidden behind the facia. You can see the holes in the picture. If it is lower is obscures everything. I like the idea of Android Auto / Carplay. I do have a problem though as the Hazzard switch is there. My solution is to put the hazzard switch beside the fan switch. Problem is the switches are different sizes! I am currently working on the cad to convert the bezel to the narrower switch but still use the same guts from the old switch. Nick Hi Nick It is certainly quite a challenge adding all of the new wiring for your modifications in such a tight space. I think cutting out the old loom was the right way to go so you can wire it all up logically. One thing I haven't spotted is where you are going to install a new fuse and relay box to keep it all under control? I think I must seriously consider getting a 3D printer, your new oil gauge installation looks so neat. David
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OKR
May 7, 2024 5:59:45 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on May 7, 2024 5:59:45 GMT
Thanks Chris, Yep patience for sure! I suspect I should have taken more notes. Nick Super bit of work with the pod. Looks excellent. Wiring... patience, patience, patience. Chris.
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OKR
May 7, 2024 5:58:18 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on May 7, 2024 5:58:18 GMT
That is a nice looking Bentley! Yes there may be an untouched immaculate 1800S somewhere? Be more likely in a drier and friendler environment! Nick
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OKR
May 5, 2024 22:17:51 GMT
Post by 1800heap on May 5, 2024 22:17:51 GMT
The missing pictures now that Flickr has worked finally. The original oil pressure gauge pod. 3D printed copy. The printer did quite a nice job, although I did have to do some sanding to finish it off. Nick
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OKR
May 5, 2024 22:06:44 GMT
Post by 1800heap on May 5, 2024 22:06:44 GMT
Glad to hear the Bristol is out and about, and out of Blighty too! Feel free to post a couple of adventure pictures. The forum is a bit dead at the moment so maybe you need to find another 1800S project, now that the Bristol is going well. Stop laughing, I'm serious! Nick Had a great laugh re “what have I done” moment! To my untutored eye looks very well thought out 👍 I’m in France with Bristol at moment and all going well. Guy who’s gite we’re staying in has immaculate downton tuned 1800S in the barn….I got quite misty eyed 😢…
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OKR
May 4, 2024 5:01:08 GMT
Post by 1800heap on May 4, 2024 5:01:08 GMT
It's been so long I struggled to log on, not good! I have made a small amount of progress on the car considering the time frame and have had to neglect posting sadly in favor of working on the car. As I have not been able to put big chunks of time into it, I have had to leave the rear paint for the moment. I am working on dash electrics and have managed to finish the worst part of it. I want to put the steering column back so I can move the car, so needed to do the wiring that required the dash to be removed. The pictures show the point of most spaghetti everywhere! I had quite a bit of additional engine wiring to add to the loom. I started doing it separately and it looked rubbish, so I went for it with the cutters on the main loom. I must say at the point the picture was taken I had a bit of a what have I done moment! All good though now, with wiring for central locking, speakers to the front doors plus the wide band O2 and left and right exhaust gas, the thermo fan conversion, electric oil startup pump and heater water solenoid. Also, some planning for a heater mod to allow for the aircon to fit below. I still need to make a controller for all of the above, but the wiring is there ready to go now. I have managed to 3D print a housing for the 3 gauges that matches the old oil pressure housing the car has. I was quite surprised by how well it turned out so I made the effort with the connections too. Flickr has decided to be annoying and won't let me upload the pictures of the front and the old gauge! I will edit the post if it decides to work! Fast approaching another September, which will no doubt come and go like the original deadline! Anyway, I can't promise to be on here again regularly, but I will try my best! Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Mar 3, 2024 21:09:31 GMT
Hi Locky
Welcome to the forum.
Australian crabs did have a fair few mods compared to the UK counterparts to help with Australian conditions so the lack of an oil cooler does seem odd. Either they didn't see it as a problem or there was no money for a redesign of the gearbox.
As an easier alternative to gearbox casting mods you may want to add an engine oil cooler. As there is such a close link between the engine oil and the gearbox this is sure to bring down auto trans oil temps.
Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 21, 2024 0:49:20 GMT
Hi Again Colin.
It just occurred to me, in case you are unaware Colin, Australian cars are dual circuit, unlike UK cars and only the front circuit has assistance on the dual circuit setup.
I must admit thinking about it, I didn't think my Australian crab had as effective brakes as OKR from the UK. I had not checked they were in good order though and took it off the road after I picked it up!
Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 21, 2024 0:07:49 GMT
Hi Colin Unfortunately not all servo problems are as easy as that! Some things to help you with diagnosis are as follows. The engine idle will be effected by the servo when you apply the brakes, that is normal. Generally, when the servo has vacuum, there's a slight hiss from the unit as you apply the brakes, but this should stop once the brakes are on. No continuous hiss! That would be a sign of a bad diaphram. Run the engine for a short time, which should put a vacuum in the servo if it is working. Stop the engine and wait for 30 seconds or so. When you apply the brakes after the engine has been stopped, the servo will operate generally twice if it is in good working order. In other words two presses of the brakes with servo assist. At this point the vacuum will be exhausted and the brakes will become unassisted. With my 1800 this means, first press of the brakes they will have assistance and work normally, release them, second press generally still has good assistance, release them, the third press normally will be unassisted and the brakes are not very effective at all. Panic stations if you are going along at any speed! This difference is very obvious in the feel of the brake pedal on my 1800! You can actually test the difference in brake effectiveness with and without servo assistance in this way with gravity. Park on a hill that is steep enough for the car to roll slowly. Obviously great care must be taken with this as the brakes really are rubbish without the help of the servo! Run the engine and turn it back of. Let the car roll engine off. Two presses should stop the car effectively and in general the third press you will need to press hard to stop the car. The greater the difference the better the servo is working. Take care with cars that have a steering lock and remember where the hand brake is! Edit Any doubt take David's advice and go with the rolling road test! You should also note that the servo needs to be the correct type for the car to work correctly. Nick I have a question regarding my servo. It isn't providing any braking assistance, and I assumed the diaphram is leaking. I was about to pull it out and get it rebuilt at a brake shop, but I notice when I suck on the tube there is a solid vacuum....i.e , I can't suck any air. I'm wondering if the problem really is in the servo. The brakes are even, just require lots of pedal pressure. Previous to this the engine idle speed dropped when applying brakes, but since I disconnected the tube from the manifold that problem stopped. Now I'm confused.
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OKR
Jan 10, 2024 19:51:43 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 10, 2024 19:51:43 GMT
Mini boat made of plastic sounds interesting. There is a company here in town that make plastic boats called Polycraft. They are slightly heavy but otherwise excellent. I use one occasionally for rowing. It is a Tuffy 300, its super stable and extremely difficult to sink apparently. I believe they make them from polyethylene. The same parent company make plastic trailers and big plastic water tanks. Quite innovative really. So the Bristol is off the road at the moment? Nick Good to hear....lots happening on Bristol but have farmed it out to excellent new chap, whilst I concentrate on mini boat project...it's made of ABS (the boat) so am learning the mysteries of that which is interesting. Look forward to update in due course . All the best Andrew
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OKR
Jan 10, 2024 9:03:54 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Jan 10, 2024 9:03:54 GMT
Hi Andrew Bang on except for the beach part! New full time job and too many other things happening, including the daily driver popping a cylinder head core plug, which I really didn't need! OKR is still progressing though, all be it back to very slowly. It is looking likely to be a year late on the target date at this rate. Although I actually don't have that much more to do so hopefully not! The weather here has not been great for progress with the paintwork. Too much rain about, so I have been working on the rear bumper. Bit of sand blasting, because it's going to be black instead of chrome. It hasn't had bumpers fitted for a long time but I don't want to deal with too many things in the compliance check. I have decided to go with a front seat mod. There is a headrest requirement here in Australia for 73 cars. New seats I hope will be the best option. Hopefully they will be happy with my one piece adaptor plate. Yet to be made! Undecided what to do up front yet. Anyway once I have done the rear bumper and brackets I will do a proper update. Nick Either a lot has happened at your end or you've been too busy with work and relaxing at the beach..... Cheers Andrew
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OKR
Nov 5, 2023 21:02:14 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Nov 5, 2023 21:02:14 GMT
Hi David The paint guy got a good match with a 10ml sample he made up by altering one of the flame red choices. I was happy with it, so I had him make up a rattler can. Unfortunately it didn't scale well as was a little light when I tested it. The only mod he did was adding extra black, so I think it just needed a little more black. In a 10ml sample that's not a lot of extra black so I think the larger quantity just needed a bit more than he calculated. I have to go back and see him again. With the roof I have two choices. Respray the lot in a different white or take the car and have them scan it. The latter is probably what I will do so the roof will have to wait till the car is on the road. Nick Hi Nick That is so frustrating. I hope they are able to sort out the right colour. Where does that leave trying to match the roof? David
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OKR
Nov 4, 2023 10:03:12 GMT
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Post by 1800heap on Nov 4, 2023 10:03:12 GMT
Time for an update!
I am still working on the rear paint. I have one small section to clean and undercoat. Basically the section is the sill and B post on the passenger side, plus the bit above the doors. The rest is mostly ready for topcoat with the front already done.
As it is rather expensive and I wasn't cashed up at the time I only acquired enough paint to do the front section some time ago. I broke the golden rule of getting all the paint in one hit! Sadly it has bitten me. The supplier I got the paint from is now using a different brand. Actually he says the new company took over the old one! Rather than one listing of Rover Flame Red there is now 10+ with this brand and they seem to be all different. Apparently the formulas have changed a bit too.
Sadly I didn't think to get them to label my can and this has made it rather difficult to pin down which Flame Red to even test. To cut a long story short I had a rattler can made up of what looked like the closest and it is not quite a match. Grrr! I made a mistake with that too. I should have got a small pot, which would have been easier, cheaper and they could have darkend it a bit for me with some more black. Can't do that with a can. Oh well. I also cannot get police white here at all, which is the roof colour. An all round pain in the bum really.
Good news for cash flow and bad news for the car, I am now working full time. The time I can spend on the car has been severely limited though, luckily most of the hard work is done.
Hopefully I can get over these last couple of hurdles and finish the paint in the next couple of weekends. With any luck tomorrow I can get them to crack the red paint colour after this first attempt.
Nick
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 23, 2023 19:45:59 GMT
It might be worth considering the master cylinder. If this is not returning properly it may be holding some pressure in the line, making it appear to be a servo problem. I would think that this type of issue would be most likely with small movements of the master cylinder piston. In other words when the return spring is at its weakest and if the piston is a bit tight.
Nick
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