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Post by snoopy11 on Jan 26, 2020 17:23:01 GMT
Slightly soppy question - on the front seat of the car - should the for and aft adjustment lever be on the left or right hand side of the seat? Am putting old seats back in car for a while as am doing less proper rallying and more touring type stuff so comfort more important than lateral support! Cheers A When sat in the seat, my drivers is in right. Passengers on left.
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Post by snoopy11 on Jan 16, 2020 9:00:58 GMT
Yes. They are lighter and stronger than the original
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Post by snoopy11 on Jan 15, 2020 18:05:50 GMT
I would go with the recommendation from your engineer. They are the experts at this sort of thing. You need to be certain of reliability.
As well as getting the displacement you will need the correct cam profile as well. When my engine was taken out to 2L we had an extensive conversation with a rep from Kent Cams. Gave him all the details of what I wanted to do with the car and he advised the cam.
For suitable replacement pistons I have the Omega forged alloy.
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Post by snoopy11 on Dec 7, 2019 15:22:46 GMT
He turned up. Made a mess in my garage as well. All I will say is 1 penguin, 1 foot and 1 oil tray C by mark atkinson, on Flickr
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Post by snoopy11 on Nov 18, 2019 18:23:42 GMT
What have you done with the bowl of oil thatโs been in the corner for six years. ๐
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Post by snoopy11 on Oct 31, 2019 18:31:44 GMT
I forgot to mention that after market cams may not have the additional lobe for a mechanical fuel pump. Easily rectified with an electric one
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Post by snoopy11 on Oct 31, 2019 18:29:37 GMT
When I was looking for a hotter fast road cam I spoke to the rep at Kent cams. Both Kent and piper both do cams for the b series if you want something with a bit more profile.
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Post by snoopy11 on Oct 30, 2019 19:54:35 GMT
You could always go dual fuel injectors ๐๐
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Post by snoopy11 on Oct 8, 2019 17:09:53 GMT
Is the 2โ pipe for a big bean can tail pipe like a Subaru ๐๐
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For sale
Sept 29, 2019 17:44:16 GMT
via mobile
Post by snoopy11 on Sept 29, 2019 17:44:16 GMT
ยฃ18k........... Anyone want to buy a fuel injected crab
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 10, 2019 19:17:45 GMT
I donโt really know but my best guess is that itโs there to vent pressure build up from the piston
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 7, 2019 8:27:03 GMT
Also while you have the top off make sure the little breather hole is clear.
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 4, 2019 15:30:50 GMT
No welding required, more "Other things to fix". Stuff I get dragged into.... Cimex D48 by Penguin 45, on Flickr C. And the garage still looks tidy and swept ๐๐๐
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 27, 2019 16:13:16 GMT
Rusty doors is easy.
Beg Mr P to look at it. He will prod with his rust attracting screw driver. Threaten the door with a cutting wheel Chant a mythological rust banishing spell (bstrd, ball cocks or something like that) Squirt magical gunk Wave his welder wand whilst wearing head dress passed from one rust doctor to the next New metal will then appear and you collect the doors later
In answer to you question Iโve no idea but use good quality products. Iโm sure Mr P will be along soon to give you a proper answer with what he uses.
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 27, 2019 9:51:40 GMT
I have found that removing the engine is easier if you remove as many of the ancillary items as you can. (Carbs,manifold, alternator, radiator etc) My method it to put the car on stands. Get underneath and undo the spider joints, exhaust, tie bar and gear selector Remove the front wheels and break the top ball joints. This allows the hubs to be swung down in turn pulling the drive shafts back and out of the way. Be careful with the break flex pipe. You will need to make sure you donโt stress those I assume you will have all the fluids drained etc but make sure the drain plug is put back. That half pint that gets left in there gets everywhere if you donโt. Remove battery tray Put a trolley jack and block under engine for support Attach lifting straps to engine Trick now is to attach a ratchet strap from the diff, under the engine and to the upright part of the engine crane. Remove the top engine mount / cross bar completely Make sure all electric connections are out of the way and earth strap removed Lift the crane to take out any slack in the straps Remove front and rear mounts Lift away The trick now is the ratchet strap. As the engine comes up it will foul on the displacer tube. By tightening the ratchet it will rotate the engine and pull it around. Lift engine clear.
Easy isnโt it.
Alternatively I believe it will all come out as one assembly but I would not like to try it.
When itโs out we will await your post of the back plates stuck. How do I get it off / where is the secret bolt. Oh and there is the springs. ๐
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