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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 6, 2011 0:47:57 GMT
Indy,
It's very unlikely that you've actually damaged anything, it probably just sounded horrible. Find yourself a coupling and she'll be fine. I've got a couple if you get stuck, but the postage will be horrible.
I did pop over the road to the pub for the bonfire and fireworks, nice show. Mr Guido Fawkes hailed from Otley, not 4 miles from here. He is still regarded as a local hero on the basis that he is one of very few men to enter the British parliament with completely honest intentions....... They do the fireworks and the bonfires down in Otley, but you'll never see a "Guy" on top of the pyre! He was apparently something of a simpleton and the other plotters expected him to go up in the explosion. Fall guy, really.
Curiously enough...... The family moved to London and built Fawkes Hall south of the river - this corrupted to Vauxhall, and they got rather interested in automobiles about 100 years ago.
Funny world, isn't it?
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Nov 6, 2011 1:00:04 GMT
sweet as, I can relax a bit lol. Shouldn't hopefully get too stuck finding a spare, as for postage, well that's a fact one in NZ has to live with. Being on the arse end of thw world lol.
They never do the burning of Guy here in NZ, quite sadly most kids and even adults in this country have zero idea what the event is all about.
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 6, 2011 2:09:33 GMT
I changed the rubber couplings to the nylon type on a Mk11 car many years ago. I had bought the car some 6 months previously after it had a new clutch fitted by a main agent. Sometime later, I noticed a silvery sludge on the dipstick and on closer examination it turned out to be aluminium powder. Nothing for it but to take the engine out. I soon found the problem, the large nut on the first motion shaft in the idler gear assembly had come loose and was eating its way through the idler bearing cap-plate. In fact the whole engine was covered with this very fine ground aluminium, inside the rocker box, inside every oil way. It took many hours to clean it all up and I decided to overhaul the engine. I never knew that a few grams of aluminium could spread so far! I don't know whether the nylon universal joint was the cause of the nut coming loose by transmitting shocks to the shaft or whether the garage had failed to tighten the nut properly. The lockwasher had disintegrated. After that I never used anything but the rubber coupling and used locktite on the first motion shaft nut. Apart from the aluminium in the oil there were no warning noises or other signs that anything was wrong. Anyone else have this problem? I believe the 2200cc engine has a problem around the clutch that can lead to similar consequences, but maybe not related to the drive shaft couplings? regards David It's the drive shaft coupling - yours is of the type known as a "hairy rubber spider". There are three types - 1/ The universal joint type as used on the automatics (See pics in my thread). 2/ The nylon type, which is supposed to be rather harsh on the transmission but is more robust than the rubber one. 3/ The rubber type which is probably the most popular. Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Nov 6, 2011 8:47:18 GMT
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Post by indianajones on Nov 6, 2011 20:54:57 GMT
Just got off the phone from our national spares rep, a set of couplings are on their way up, should hopefully get them within the week.
Will look more into the process of doing this job through my manuals and bugging you guys. Back on the road in no time, touch wood!
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 6, 2011 21:05:13 GMT
Good news. Whilst your waiting, find yourself a ball joint splitter. A nice chunky wind-up type is kinder to the rubber gaiters; a "fork" is quick and effective, but can be a bit brutal. See pics on P4 of my resto thread.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Nov 6, 2011 21:34:34 GMT
Just got off the phone from our national spares rep, a set of couplings are on their way up, should hopefully get them within the week. Will look more into the process of doing this job through my manuals and bugging you guys. Back on the road in no time, touch wood! -Andrew Great! You can do this, no problem. Will be happy to guide you through it! regards, Tommy!
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Post by sherpa on Nov 6, 2011 21:44:26 GMT
Yep I paid £16 for a chunky wind up type splitter and it popped both ball joints apart easily.
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Post by indianajones on Nov 6, 2011 21:47:28 GMT
Cheers lads, where would one get a ball joint splitter and how much would that cost? roughly speaking.
Andrew
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Post by sherpa on Nov 6, 2011 21:58:27 GMT
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Post by tommydp on Nov 6, 2011 22:20:06 GMT
I use one like that, too.. A fork if I have too. It's a universal tool and could be found in most "car tool" shops I suppose. Tommy:-)
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Post by indianajones on Nov 6, 2011 23:00:41 GMT
Sweet as, just taking a look on a few auto websites here in NZ, around $20-30 NZD
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Nov 14, 2011 6:26:38 GMT
These little babies arrived today $120 NZD (60 pounds) for the pair. Now, will I need any special tools save the joint splitter? Or better yet, a list of tools would be very helpful Also none of my many manuals seem to cover this? Cheers, Andrew
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Post by kelsham on Nov 14, 2011 8:20:40 GMT
I have managed to fit new rubber couplings without dismantling the hub swivels. I lever the joint apart and fiddle about until the new coupling slides into place. You may have to rotate the drive shaft.
This is not possible on the Mk1 drive shafts.
Why not try this before dismantling? If the old coupling comes out the new one will go in.
Regards kels
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 14, 2011 9:14:16 GMT
I agree, I've never had to dismantle anything. Just jack the car under the chassis member under the front suspension so the wheel hangs down and this creates a gap. You can then lever the drive shaft on its splines (Mk11 on) and insert the joint. Repeat for the other side. Regards David I have managed to fit new rubber couplings without dismantling the hub swivels. I lever the joint apart and fiddle about until the new coupling slides into place. You may have to rotate the drive shaft. This is not possible on the Mk1 drive shafts. Why not try this before dismantling? If the old coupling comes out the new one will go in. Regards kels
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