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Post by indianajones on Nov 14, 2011 18:16:38 GMT
Seems like the only thing for it is for me to actually start taking it apart lol, all these terms and instructions are getting a bit lost on me to be honest.
As for Mk I & Mk II, I'm fairly sure mine is a Mk. I with a Mk. II engine. I donno what driveshaft etc has been fitted when they went to non-power steering.
Edit: wait a minute, what the hell am I on about? the power steering would have nothing to do with the drive shaft would it?
Also if a 18H/mk II engine has been placed in her then logic would suggest it has a Mk II driveshaft? unless it's entirely seperate of the engine?
Thanks a bunch everyone
Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 14, 2011 23:57:22 GMT
If you look at the drive shafts, the Mk2 type can be identified by a rubber housing about 2" in diameter a few inches from where your new rubber joints are fitted. This rubber housing covers the sliding joint that you can compress to fit the new joints.
The driveshafts fit into the transmission, so looking at the engine type (18H) etc won't necessarily tell you about the drive shafts.
Don't worry, once you start the job, it is quite obvious.
Good luck
David
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Post by indianajones on Nov 15, 2011 0:04:52 GMT
Cheers David,
Yeah I was thinking that someone may have just replaced the engine and not the whole unit, hence it could be Mk. I or II gear box.
If it were me and I had the whole unit I'd just replace the lot.
For all I know it came from the factory as an 18H?
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Nov 15, 2011 6:27:32 GMT
Righto, tried to turn her around, that endly bady/noisely lol. the entire thing came off and wasn't having an inch of it, so me and my awesome mrs pushed her back into the carport. All I had to do was jack her up and pull the old set up off. The rod connecting the UJ to the wheel had popped off? I don't think I made her much/any more worse off. I'll let the photos speak    Is the driveshaft do hickey ok to use? or do I need another? Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 15, 2011 19:07:37 GMT
Also one more thing, which side does the cross on the coupling face? towards the engine or away? or rather it makes no difference what so ever?
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Nov 15, 2011 20:07:15 GMT
Hi! I think the differential output shaft, or what it's called.., will be fine. It looks ok to me, it's supposed to have that groove you see in the picture.
I have often wondered about which way to install those couplings myself. I have always put the cross side facing the differential, but I'm not sure if it's correct or if it matters at all:-)
Good luck! Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Nov 16, 2011 5:45:11 GMT
I agree, I've never had to dismantle anything. Just jack the car under the chassis member under the front suspension so the wheel hangs down and this creates a gap. You can then lever the drive shaft on its splines (Mk11 on) and insert the joint. Repeat for the other side. Regards David David, Trying to do this, but to no luck, the driveshaft has a rubber seal and it does slide, but needs a damn lot of effort, can't seem to get it enough to slot the coupling in. what technique/tool did you use? Also, there's another victim, my RPM (or speedo, if that's not done from the wheel. Incase you didn't know a previous owner slapped one on, as I know they're not stock  meter cable *facepalm* lol  Cheers, Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 16, 2011 6:29:30 GMT
I slotted the rubber joint in place on the end of the inner shaft and then used a large old screwdriver as a lever between the rubber joint and the outer shaft to force it back on its splines. As mentioned this was with the wheel hanging down allowing for the largest gap to be created. If you cannot get this to work you could slacken the engine mounts and use another jack under the transmission to give more clearance.
Maybe someone else can chip in here who has had a similar problem.
Regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Nov 16, 2011 6:40:28 GMT
Ok, so you had the rubber joint bolted on ready to the inner shaft, slotted that home and then levered the outer shaft with a large screw driver over the rubber joint?
The car is jacked up, so the wheel is hanging down.
Your theory is sound, and I can see it is possible just about. I will need to do it in the morning on the weekend after some weet-bix lol.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Nov 17, 2011 6:05:20 GMT
Sweet! managed to get the outter shaft over the coupling ..........now how do I get the U-bolts on? lol
Too tired to sort it out now
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Nov 18, 2011 22:41:17 GMT
Can't get the U bolts in. Tried again from the start, but now I can't get the outter shaft over the coupling impossible  Off to get a ball joint splitter. Edit: lol this manual is fairly cruel "remove driveshaft nuts" .....don't show me a picture or anything, how am I meant to know what they are lol -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 19, 2011 0:41:47 GMT
Oh see they mean nut, as in the big one. Why did they add an 's'  Need to go out again and get a bigger wrench now lol This is becoming a bit of a mission! -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 19, 2011 1:24:08 GMT
Leave the drive shaft nut alone.
Pop the top ball joint and pull the hub outwards. This should give you a 1.5" - 2" gap to work in.
If you really want to pull the drive shaft, it's hub nut, driving flange, caliper, disc and hub off before it will come free.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 19, 2011 2:44:44 GMT
Sorry to hear you've not been able to do it without splitting the ball joint. When you get the splitter try not to damage the rubber boot (very easy to split it). If you do damage the rubber boot then you will need to replace it or the ball joint will soon fail. Sometimes, you can undo the UPPER ball joint nut and than hit the outside of the hub where the ball joint fits with a mallett and the joint will split so no risk of damage and no need to use a splitter. It takes quite a few blows and a bit of luck, but worth a try. I assume you fitted the inner rubber joint U bolts before trying to reasemble? My advice is to never undo the big wheel hub nut unless you really have to, eg when relacing brake disk, wheel bearings or CV joint. It is a big cause of problems if not reassembled in the same position on the splines and the correct torque. Regards David Can't get the U bolts in. Tried again from the start, but now I can't get the outter shaft over the coupling impossible Off to get a ball joint splitter. Edit: lol this manual is fairly cruel "remove driveshaft nuts" .....don't show me a picture or anything, how am I meant to know what they are lol -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Nov 19, 2011 6:09:24 GMT
At long last it is done!  I got here (above) was just about to give up for the day, after looking for a spanner to remove the wheel hub/drive shaft nut and seeing it was going to cost me $50 NZD, I decided against it incase I didn't really need to; Then I saw Chris's post.....I then ran outside after my cup of tea and popped the top joint. This gave me more play to slip the outer joint the coupling and more importantly the space the get the U-bolts in place. This was achieved by multiple attempts, a lot of luck and even more swearing ;D  Got the nuts on, but didn't run them home. Put the ball joints back in etc, lowered her down, and tightened them up. Also got a valve clearance check done. As for damage to the rubbers on the ball joints, Will need to double check, but am sure the steering arm one is fine, here's a photo of the upper one, she looks ok from that side, will need to check the other later, can't where it's parked at the moment.  Otherwise it seems ok, touch wood  Other UJ will have to wait till at least next weekend, after my exams. The other thing I shall have to take care of now is the cable.....it was the speedo *face palm*, I'll ring the club man on Monday, if no joy, LOCI shall be the next port of call. would of assumed the speedo cable would of read off the wheels? Thanks again everyone, you've been awesome giving me guidance and advice. That's another pint I owe everyone should I come your way or vice versa -Andrew |
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meter cable *facepalm* lol
