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Post by indianajones on Oct 18, 2011 19:54:08 GMT
If my MGB sounds is anything to go by, a twin carb'd 18/85 would sound like a growling beast. Not quite Wosleley 'style' lol. shall be staying with single, and I'm pricing up carb rebuild kits, doubt it really need it but I wanna have a bit of fun and also know that she's 100%. Plus it'll give me something to do over the holidays. Just need to confirm carb type, HS6 ? My main objectives at this stage are to give her a bit of a service and to start taking care of a bit of rust here and there, I don't think there's anything major, this worst being this:  Little bit of bubbling also on one corner of a sill. Scared to look further (I think we all know that feeling lol), but I'm gonna man up! Wanna keep this car and I want her to be nice and safe. I'm no welder and I dare say I shall fork out for some work to be done in that area, but might try and fix some of the patches on the doors myself with filler (Not ideal I know, but they're not so bad I need to replace the whole door, in my own opinion) ....*waits for people to tell me to man up and get a welder* Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 18, 2011 20:54:44 GMT
If that's the worst of it, you're nicely set for the future.
Rub it right back to bare metal - you'll find that it's a larger area than you think, as some of that paint is lifting. Treat it with a decent rust converter, primer then paint.
There's nothing wrong with using filler appropriately. Levelling small dents or correcting a line on the body work is typical stuff. The rear wheelarches on mine needed a swipe of filler to blend them to the body after we fitted the repair sections.
What you don't want to be doing is gobbing the stuff into physical holes. These really ought to be welded. Only ever apply filler to bare metal, BTW. If you apply it over paint, you will never get a smooth edge and it will show through the paint.
Learn to weld - it's a useful skill and, after the first few holes burnt through the metal, isn't particularly difficult and is extremely satisfying.
I wouldn't have said that the carbs make for extra noise on my car. The stainless exhaust does make a little "burble" noise which is rather pleasing.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Oct 18, 2011 21:05:05 GMT
Cheers Chris, I might sand back the rust bubble on the corner of the sill/wheel arch soon and see how bad it is.
Of course I wouldn't just toss filler into holes, maybe on the door as I hear it's too thin to actually weld onto, but that's not structural!
What type of welder would you recommend Mig?
Hmmmm stainless exhuast, that can go on the wish list at this stage, but could be a nice mod for the future!
Edit: Also that red/pink stuff you see, I donno if it's metal to be honest, seem to come apart fairly easy when I prodded it.
-Andrew
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Post by kelsham on Oct 19, 2011 7:59:53 GMT
If you take the filler route, bear in mind that it is porous, if it is used to bridge holes it will absorb water from behind and soon come loose.
You will need to use fibre glass inside the door, after derusting, I use Jenolite. Then a skim of filler will give a lasting repair. Remove as much rust as you can first. Just to complicate matters bear in mind that most paint primers are porous as well. The top coat should be applied as soon as possible.
Regards kels.
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Post by indianajones on Oct 19, 2011 8:41:30 GMT
Thanks for the tip mate  Need all the advice I can get, very new to rust and dealing with it. Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 19, 2011 12:31:35 GMT
Yes that's right. If it has a silver knurled knob on the end that's the vernier adjustment as on 25D4s. You can check if it's working by disconnecting the pipe at the carb end and sucking it, the plate in the dizzy should rotate and the vacuum hold if you place your thumb over the end. Regards David PS: dw Dave I have the vacuum advance mechanism, that's the trumpet looking thing on the side of the dizzy that connects to the carb right? |
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Post by indianajones on Oct 24, 2011 5:34:25 GMT
Cheers Dave, Tested the vacuum advance as suggest and she's working. No vernier adjuster that I can see though. Perhaps a different dizzy? Inbetween the many things to do on her, I did get a new reversing bulb and popped it in. Light works........all the time lol. In reverse, neutral, and any other gear the light is on. I'm guessing the switch on the control box is naffed? Any other ideas? Oh yea, is this rod or cable?  -Indy |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 24, 2011 7:45:36 GMT
That's a rod change. It looks as though you could do with a new seal and probably a new gasket for the housing there sometime. Try not to allow too much oil on the drive shaft rubber doughnuts or they will fail prematurely.
Check the timing with the light at idle and other settings per the w/shop manual with the vacuum pipe off the distributor and plugged just to make sure the dizzy is correct.
Take the wires off the reversing switch and check the switch operation with a meter, it could be a short elsewhere in the wiring.
Regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Oct 24, 2011 16:33:29 GMT
Hi Indy:-)
Looks like a great car! Good luck with it!
I'm pretty sure your car has been fitted with a later engine/ gearbox at some point, a mk 3 1800 or Princess 1800 unit. What makes me think this is:
- you have the rod type gearchange
- you have the 45 d distributor
- the rocker cover is black
- you have the later type accelerator cable arrangement at the carburettor
- you have the later type air filter box, though it's missing the bimetallic temperature control unit.
This has to be taken into account when approaching tuning etc, as there are differences. I bet your timing marks are on top of the timing chain cover? meaning you don't have to crawl under the car to point at them with your timing light:-)
I wonder if the hoses to the heater on the bulkhead have been switched. I believe the one coming from the cylinder head should go to the lower of the heater pipes. Not sure if it's that important, perhaps more so if driving in Norwegian arctic winters, to keep the heater steadily warm:-) It could perhaps play up the cooling anyway, if air is trapped inside the heater.
Check the obvious first. Is there oil 13 mm above the hollow piston rod in the carb? does piston fall freely with a soft click as it hits the carb bottom? Is fuel filter, if fitted, clean? Do one step at a time and report back, don't start adjusting and changing everything. Believe me, I've been there!
Rod type reversing light transmitters can be adjusted, they are prone to give trouble unlike the cable arrangement ones. If I remember correctly you'll have to screw it further in to fix it, if not screw it further out:-) Could be a short elsewhere, too.. Remove the carpet etc and you'll find the switch on the right hand side of the gearstick.
Do you have a manual? If not, get one:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by indianajones on Oct 24, 2011 19:29:15 GMT
Cheers for tips guys. Yep, had a feeling it was rods, after seeing a pic of Chris's ones. So this pretty much confirms it then. She's a MK I car with a 18H engine. Oh yeah, here's a full pic of the engine bay. She has a lovely chrome rocker cover as you can see   Will try and get some pics of the Dizzy up close to try and hopefully we'll confirm that too. Will do one thing at a time. Have topped up the dash pot, but seem to drain rather quickly? I noticed a lot of red/brown oil at the bottom of the float bowl/chamber, perhaps that's where it's going? Also replaced my older vac advance pipe with some 4mm dia. piping. I reckon that's helped quite a bit with the lower revs and sounds a bit smoother lower down. As for the seals for the gear selector, where can they be had from? Earl parts? If not I may have to join the crab club, which isn't a bad thing, but being here in NZ I'll miss out on the social stuff  Seen the filter, but haven't taken it out/off yet. Will try and get on to that soon. Also I shall take the carb off and make sure all the controls etc are working smoothly. As mentioned before, a rebuild kit is on the radar.....perhaps a K&N filter too  One step at a time and will report back! -Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Oct 24, 2011 19:49:29 GMT
Great looking, and what a nice rocker cover! And I thought it was black.. sorry:-) What's the engine number?
Your distributor is in deed a 45 d, as used on later engines. I think your ignition timing should be 10 degrees before top dead centre at 1000 rpm, vacuum pipe disconnected and plugged. Contact breaker gap should be 0.015/ dwell angle 51+/- 5 degrees.
Regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by indianajones on Oct 24, 2011 19:59:13 GMT
Cheers Tommy, Well it may of been black at one point! my old MGB's one was. Bit boring to be honest though. Ummm will need to look when I get home tonight, but it's an 18H No. for certain. Oh yeah, forgot to mention I do have a workshop manual. Have a few actually, 2x Haynes, 2x Autobook, BMC workshop manual (But only covers 1964-1966 so just before the Wolseley came out) and a BL workshop manual which covers up to Mk III I believe and has very in depth stuff, only one that has information on the autobox too as opposed to "If it breaks, take it to a shop" lol Oh and I got a copy of the owners handbook Is the contact breaker stuff in regards to the dizzy? would the electronic ignition affect that? -Andrew |
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Post by tommydp on Oct 24, 2011 20:41:00 GMT
Oh, sorry, I forgot about the electronic ignition.. No need to bother with points gap and dwell angle then:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by indianajones on Oct 24, 2011 20:46:35 GMT
lol sweeeeeeet. Will take a peek and see where the timing marks are soon Slowly getting better at this car stuff, amazing to think I've only been tinkering with them for just under 2 years! Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 24, 2011 20:47:17 GMT
Selector rod seal is the same as the Mini one. You should be able to get one locally.
Chris.
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