|
|
Post by halkyon on Sept 25, 2022 19:27:44 GMT
Absolutely correct on the rust-proofing, I plan to use a cavity wax spray thingy as I have done on my Minor and Nissan Pao. I think the Bilt Hamber Dynax one as it's dead easy to apply with the long bendy lance that sprays in all directions. I used it along with the underbody spray on the Pao and drove it through two winters - no new rust - just the old stuff on the wheel arches that I'm finally getting around to now!
Before the trip home today of ~110 miles up the Fosse Way and across the M5 and A14 I picked up some self-adhesive draught excluder foam from a hardware store and stuck it around the door where I thought the whistles were coming from. What a huge difference! That'll do until I can face paying £13 per metre for the nice door trim with D-seal you also described. If only Woolies did club discounts!
Unfortunately the lack of wind noise revealed a prominent rumble from the back at 60mph (perhaps rear wheel balance?) and an exhaust resonance at around 55mph. The resulting cruising speed of about 50 on A-roads and a touch over 60 on the motorway gave somewhere in the region on 37mpg on E10 + Miller's VSPe, which is certainly livable!
The workshop who recently aligned the front wheels have managed to destroy both rack boot seals, both ripped into two, perhaps from twisting the shaft without loosening the clips?
|
|
|
|
Post by snoopy11 on Sept 27, 2022 9:08:30 GMT
The area between the O/S rear wheel and bumper mount is holed underneath. Ah. Standard. That's known as the fish tank. Part of the fun is to find out how many layers you have to chop out before you get a proper hole. I've done four layers... N/S sill just starting to go front and rear at the lip with the wheel arches. A little hole near a displacer mount. Two mechanics agree I've caught it in time. 😄 Again, regular stuff. Make sure it gets thoroughly doused with wax afterwards. You can get the front corner through the "A" pillar or there are access panels in the inner sill front and rear if you lift the carpet. Just did a couple of hundred miles in the car - wind noise through front door corner needs to go! Gearbox very whiney too, may try Miller's 20/60W. I had a lot of wind noise, which I mostly dealt with by replacing the furry Furflex trim edging with some edging with a tubular moulding in addition to the rubber door seals. I still get some noise from the top of the n/s door though. Beginning to think I need to find a large person to bend the top of the frame in a smidge for me. C. I hope he’s referring to himself as being small there and not me as being a largyfat git 😂😂 |
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Sept 28, 2022 17:15:50 GMT
I hope he’s referring to himself as being small there and not me as being a largyfat git 😂😂 He's a fit senior rugby league player these days.  Might be able to talk him through easing the door top over a bit. |
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Oct 17, 2022 21:18:34 GMT
I have a minor leak, or rather the crab does, I think from the radiator itself. Being in a pretty sorry state with bodged mounts I haven't fixed up yet I am hardly surprised.
Refurbishment is an option, but it strikes me that replacement with something of similar size or larger of modern construction (say - ally?) might be more cost effective?
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Oct 24, 2022 21:05:31 GMT
Radiator worries will be put aside now, on a brief weekend holiday in Norfolk the car developed a bit of an intermittent squeal like a metallic cricket that goes when pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. I'm guessing release bearing needs grease or replacement. All good otherwise! 😁  |
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Oct 25, 2022 17:03:44 GMT
Good to see her out and about. Welding all done?
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Oct 25, 2022 18:34:06 GMT
Next week, weather permitting. I can deal with wind using gasless wire, but not rain!
Any tips on clutch noises or radiator suppliers appreciated.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Oct 26, 2022 17:35:22 GMT
Clutch bearings a good bet if the noise is only there with the pedal down. GRB202 is the number - usually some on eBay. AND - you don't have to pull the engine to do it. Chock up the flywheel end and take off the outer cover. Not much more to it than that.
My radiators were always dealt with by a local firm when I lived over in Leeds. The one that needed re-coring they simply measured up and had a new one cut, which was then soldered home.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Oct 31, 2022 14:08:24 GMT
The answer to my clutch squeak/squeal woes may be that I am an idiot. 
Upon checking I noticed that I fit the clevis pin that joins the clutch cylinder rod and the actuating arm upside down. The split pin was rubbing a groove into the top face of the arm. I've now flipped it and it was silent on a short test drive.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Oct 31, 2022 18:25:29 GMT
Takes a brave man to own up! Nah, simple solutions are always nice and another little bit of new knowledge is gathered.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Nov 2, 2022 11:13:50 GMT
Warning - contains rust hole exploration around sills.  Weather is holding so should have the important bits done today. Unfortunately I think I may need to remove the O/S/R displacer to get at a little hole above it, and get some more 1mm sheet for the O/S fish-bowl. |
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Nov 4, 2022 13:04:47 GMT
How did you get on? Displacer hole is an odd one.
C.
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Nov 21, 2022 9:08:24 GMT
How did you get on? Displacer hole is an odd one. C.
I didn't address it yet as I'll need to either source a displacer pump or take it to a local guy who has one. The sills are solid now though!
That said he may not be local for much longer - we're downsizing and hopefully escaping the vicious rental market next year, which has necessitated that the 2200 goes into storage for a while. The first time I've ever put a car away for the winter! It is tucked away next to nothing less than a Tatra 97. Amazing looking thing.
|
|
|
|
Post by halkyon on Dec 1, 2022 12:33:15 GMT
Miraculously I've managed to source an 1800 power steering rack in good condition and a BMC/Leyland pump with integral reservoir that looks about right.
I've not serviced a PAS system before let alone done a conversion, but it seems I'll need a valve to prevent over-pressure at high RPM and the original is going to be difficult to find (37H 7373). Perhaps an aftermarket adjustable valve would be better so I can tune it to my - or rather my petite partner's - needs. Speaking of, is it possible to get any more forward adjustment on the seats? Minors have extra holes in the floor with captive nuts.
Will try to get it all working on a bench before it comes time to pull the crab out of storage!
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Dec 1, 2022 18:28:48 GMT
That'll be interesting to follow. Can't see the valve popping up anywhere - have a word with Tony Wood perhaps? You'll also need a steering column, as the fitment to the rack is different. It doesn't have the rubber coupling.
Check that the seat runners aren't fouling on the front rail retaining screws as there isn't a lot of clearance. I'm a bit of a short *rse and I can reach the pedals comfortably with adjustment to spare.
Chris.
|
|
Might be able to talk him through easing the door top over a bit.
