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Post by halkyon on Aug 10, 2022 22:28:21 GMT
I've spoken with one of the chaps behind Spiyda before who now sell their fancy electronics through Holden. Can't believe I didn't think of their gauge wizard before!
Radiomobile 1070x is back in with an auxilliary connection and sounds... okay. Now to get tempted by a better speaker and a secondary amplifier... and additional speakers.
I've also been thinking about adding electric PAS. A couple of cuts to the column, some UJs, and a Prius unit strikes me as a simple and cheap solution (before I've looked at squeezing it in anywhere of course).
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 11, 2022 1:26:30 GMT
Andrew A converted his 1800S to electric power steering with a system that allowed him to dial in the level of assistance required and retained the direct steering feel which makes the crab enjoyable to drive - but I understand it was quite expensive.
I have found electric systems fitted to some vehicles now offer little feedback.
David
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Post by andrewa on Aug 11, 2022 14:47:53 GMT
I had mine done as a drive in drive out arrangement and it was about £1200- £1400 but he also sorted out some other issues.
They used a corsa unit with a separate rheostat and it was exactly as you suggest. From memory the chap did away with the flexible connection at the bottom and used a UJ - with no noticeable change in noise, vibration or harshness. I found it a brilliant improvement.
Cheers
Andrew
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Post by halkyon on Aug 17, 2022 8:29:54 GMT
Thanks both, I'll talk to a local modified/custom shop this week (lucky to have them locally).
I have a new exhaust system from Phil Jarvis. Eye-wateringly expensive compared to the £90 complete systems for Morris Minors but it seems to be great quality! |
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Post by andrewa on Aug 17, 2022 17:27:40 GMT
en-gb.facebook.com/electricpowersteering/Here's the chap I used - makes the kits that Burtons and many others resell - approachable but as pretty much one man band is very busy but he'd be worth a chat. If you go on his facebook page and go back to July 2017 you can see my car and what the install looks like.
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Post by halkyon on Aug 31, 2022 16:16:30 GMT
My list of jobs just got longer rather than shorter - both track rod ends need doing. With that, some new lubrication in the rack, and double-checking the alignment I may be fine to not have power steering! Not sure it's feasible with 10-20% inflation for the forseeable anyway. On that note I may also finally learn to weld properly rather than shopping out the easier bits. All an adventure!
Upon getting a quote from an upholsterer for another car he said he'd owned a couple of 2200s/Sixes "back in the day" and said I should be extremely worried about something wearing away and developing excessive end-float because of a design flaw. Perhaps the crank from the clutch action?
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 31, 2022 17:12:36 GMT
Track rod ends are the same as the MGB, so cheap as chips if you shop around.
C.
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Post by steve4487 on Aug 31, 2022 18:51:22 GMT
I'm not sure if this helps but when I was a mechanic at an Austin/Morris main agent when 2200's were new they were know for dropping the crankshaft thrust washers into the gearbox. This was preceded by the clutch not clearing properly, ie, harder to engage first and reverse which becomes much more of a problem with use ultimately resulting in the thrust washers dropping into the box
Steve
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 1, 2022 1:37:21 GMT
One way of checking the end float with the engine off is to push the crank towards the rear of the engine by tapping the front of the pulley and then measuring how much it moves forward when the clutch is operated. Not sure what the 2200 end float should be but I would expect somewhere between 0.003" to 0.005". I saw an example of excessive end float on a 1800 engine that showed up by the clutch engaging close to the carpet.
David
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Post by halkyon on Sept 4, 2022 12:50:24 GMT
Gotcha - I will address the end-float issue if/when it occurs rather than worrying about it premptively. For the track-rod ends I did wonder why they were so ridiculously cheap, excellent!
Attended another show yesterday and had some nice conversations - "more space than a Bentley", "lovely driving cars", and so on. One thing I am noticing however is that a large number of people mistake the car for a Maxi, so much so that I might get a "not a Maxi" bumper sticker printed!
New MIG welder bought may see the underside of the crab soon.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 4, 2022 18:59:06 GMT
RUST - don't look if you're squeamish! 
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Post by halkyon on Sept 19, 2022 17:12:53 GMT
I think I've figured out the settings on my welder to not blow through 0.8-1mm mild steel, although slow stitching is required not to warp it!
Took the car out with just the excuse of charging the battery and feeding some local ducks yesterday - possibly the design's most photogenic angle?
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 20, 2022 8:31:02 GMT
Nice shot. What have you found on the rust front?
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Post by halkyon on Sept 25, 2022 10:52:13 GMT
The area between the O/S rear wheel and bumper mount is holed underneath. N/S sill just starting to go front and rear at the lip with the wheel arches. A little hole near a displacer mount. Two mechanics agree I've caught it in time. 😄
Just did a couple of hundred miles in the car - wind noise through front door corner needs to go! Gearbox very whiney too, may try Miller's 20/60W.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 25, 2022 17:20:05 GMT
The area between the O/S rear wheel and bumper mount is holed underneath. Ah. Standard. That's known as the fish tank. Part of the fun is to find out how many layers you have to chop out before you get a proper hole. I've done four layers... N/S sill just starting to go front and rear at the lip with the wheel arches. A little hole near a displacer mount. Two mechanics agree I've caught it in time. 😄 Again, regular stuff. Make sure it gets thoroughly doused with wax afterwards. You can get the front corner through the "A" pillar or there are access panels in the inner sill front and rear if you lift the carpet. Just did a couple of hundred miles in the car - wind noise through front door corner needs to go! Gearbox very whiney too, may try Miller's 20/60W. I had a lot of wind noise, which I mostly dealt with by replacing the furry Furflex trim edging with some edging with a tubular moulding in addition to the rubber door seals. I still get some noise from the top of the n/s door though. Beginning to think I need to find a large person to bend the top of the frame in a smidge for me. C. |
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