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Post by halkyon on Jul 31, 2022 14:13:50 GMT
I've tried a second stabiliser and get the same readings, doh! Perhaps the alternator is overcharging? I'll check the volts across the battery with the car running, and then the different senders.
Everything else about how the car runs and the seperate sensor that turns the fan on is telling me that the gauge is over-reading rather than the engine running hot. In fact, given I've been so over-cautious with the 74c thermostat and the fan that comes on at 85c, I worry that I'm running the engine too cool!
This weekend we did nearly 300 miles going up to Lincoln, then down to The Festival of the Unexceptional, up again, then down again. It was flawless and the cooling fan only came on when I'd expect it to such as stopping at lights after an A-road stretch, or queueing up for the event.
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Post by andrewa on Jul 31, 2022 20:27:07 GMT
Car (and the dude beside it) look very cool - nice to see the miles roll on.
Cheers
A
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Post by halkyon on Aug 1, 2022 18:31:24 GMT
Yes it was a relief to finally get some miles in the car!
Why would there be a 1 uF capacitor wired between the instrument voltage regulator "output" and earth? 
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 1, 2022 23:52:41 GMT
Probably an RF suppressor for the radio. More usually seen on the ignition coil.
Good to hear that you're using the car. Bit of trust developing?
C.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 2, 2022 8:38:33 GMT
If the capacitor is breaking down it could affect the gauge reading (ie read a higher temperature). If in doubt leave it out! I can't imagine it would be needed given the low current that the stabiliser is switching.
David
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Post by halkyon on Aug 3, 2022 13:54:20 GMT
I've left it out for now and have extracted the Radiomobile 1070X for a service and will add an auxilliary input. Turns out the extra inline fuse under the dash was for said radio.
Been thinking about relaying the headlights to further take the strain off the main loom - would this be about right or should both connections to the headlight be live when main beam is on?
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 3, 2022 17:22:30 GMT
That's just about identical to the circuit I used when I did that job. Mine's set up to switch the dip off when beam is on. I don't know if that is actually "THE RULES", but it effectively left the switch as it was before adding the relays.
C.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 4, 2022 1:34:38 GMT
I understand there are rules regarding the maximum headlight output as measured in output candelas. Prior to the introduction of LED,HID and laser lights this was often quoted in (input) watts for tungsten and halogen bulbs as per the car manufacturer's specs. For the crab this meant either the dip OR beam could be used but legally not both together. If both were turned on when using high beam the bulbs would overheat and the wiring could suffer. I recall this was a supposedly no cost fad to get better lights for night driving at one time. The rules for replacing original lights with LEDs etc are a bit convoluted and depend on a number of factors including the date of manufacture /registration of the vehicle. It was covered in depth in an article in the LOCI magazine a few years back but I don't have it to hand. David That's just about identical to the circuit I used when I did that job. Mine's set up to switch the dip off when beam is on. I don't know if that is actually "THE RULES", but it effectively left the switch as it was before adding the relays. C. |
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Post by halkyon on Aug 4, 2022 17:17:08 GMT
Hi Peter That's interesting. The sensor output is not linear. For example the details I have found show the following resistance values: 0 C 5896 ohms current through gauge at 10V = 1.6ma 40C 1179 ohms current through gauge at 10V = 8.5ma 80C 323 ohms current through gauge at 10V = 31 ma 100C 185 ohms current through gauge at 10V = 54 ma It would be interesting to see whether there was a significant variation at the higher temperatures. David Just yesterday I tested 4 different used temperature sensors and one new sensor. They all gave significantly different readings. Peter 
I've now tried:
GTR101, which should be equivalent to 13H5602 YCB000101EVA, also equivalent to 13H5602 GTR104, which should be equivalent to BMK1644
13H5602/GTR111
All read above the sensor fitted, which I believe is over-reading.
Resistance at room temp with my multi-meter on 20:
With car (unknown): 0.73 13H5602: 0.32 GTR101: 0.70
GTR104: 0.52 YCB000101EVAL 0.70
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Post by 1800heap on Aug 4, 2022 21:54:51 GMT
I just had a quick play with some speedos I have. I have 4 of them and using a regulated 5 volt power supply connected direct to the gauge (no other connections on the gauge), 2 read dead center of normal, one is on the cold side of normal the other is nearly up to the hot line. If you are confident the car is not running hot then your gauge is as likely the culprit as the sender. If the regulator is bad the fuel gauge will be off too.
It is possible to recalibrate the gauge but it is not easy.
Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 5, 2022 3:30:12 GMT
An interesting test. I wonder if the gauges degrade with age. I recall all of the crabs I drove or owned that were less than ten years old all read slightly under the dead centre (N). I think it's important especially with the 2227cc engine to know the operating temperature so it may be worth getting a thermometer and inserting the sensor into boiling water and measuring the resistance as it cools down, say every 5 degrees and plotting it out. The sensor can then be refitted to the engine and resistance measurements taken and matched to the gauge reading as the engine warms up(disconnected from the gauge just while the resistance reading is taken). A bit fiddly but would also check the electric fan is switching as intended. David I just had a quick play with some speedos I have. I have 4 of them and using a regulated 5 volt power supply connected direct to the gauge (no other connections on the gauge), 2 read dead center of normal, one is on the cold side of normal the other is nearly up to the hot line. If you are confident the car is not running hot then your gauge is as likely the culprit as the sender. If the regulator is bad the fuel gauge will be off too.
It is possible to recalibrate the gauge but it is not easy.
Nick |
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Post by halkyon on Aug 6, 2022 17:20:42 GMT
Exalted company at the Ely Classic Car Show today. Plus I found an extremely appropriate hat for the parcel shelf in a local charity shop.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 7, 2022 3:24:06 GMT
Should keep the heat off! David Exalted company at the Ely Classic Car Show today. Plus I found an extremely appropriate hat for the parcel shelf in a local charity shop. |
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Post by steve4487 on Aug 7, 2022 10:13:14 GMT
www.holden.co.uk/p/gauge-wizard-matched-fuel-gauge-with-sender-unit-1I am not sure if this will help but as far as I am aware this gauge wizard can be used to match any sender to any temp or fuel gauge. I have one but in the end didn't need to use it in the end on my turbo A35 It could be worth a try as you should be able to match your present sender with your gauge. Steve
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 7, 2022 12:06:29 GMT
Now that looks like a very clever piece of kit. Great spot, Steve.
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