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Post by halkyon on Mar 29, 2023 10:39:42 GMT
If the whining is excessive and doesn't go away when the carpets and sound deadening are fitted properly. Have you checked the oil or any signs of aluminium? The idler gear tab washers are prone to failing which can lead to all kinds of nasties. Well worth checking. David I was thinking of doing an early oil and coolant change now as its been nine months and at least a thousand miles since the last and I don't trust what was done before that. I'll check for debris then as well as seeing what Adrian of Mead Automotive in Birmingham (club member and recommended by Tony Wood) thinks of the noise as I'm only an hour from him now. I replaced the Furflex door edging on mine with some stuff with a tubular rubber section on it, which made a remarkable difference. www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-37-side-seals was the stuff. The original carpet had 1" thick horse hair bonded to the underside, which is pretty effective. Mate Snoopy has used Dynamat extensively on his car to good effect. I've been driven mad by squeaky wipers. The best solution I have yet found was a cheap replacement blade from Halfords, which I cut in half and reloaded the wipers with. Fiddly, but it has shut them up. Rear wheel bearings shouldn't rumble... Quite easy to replace on these. Nearside hub nut is a left hand thread.... Chris. I've ordered those exact door seals from Woolies as they did a great job on the Pao are still nice and supple years on. For mats I may go with cheaper brands like Silent Coat or Dodo Mat! |
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Post by andrewa on Mar 29, 2023 10:49:46 GMT
Another long trip in the 2200 down to Devon, around a bit, and back again to Gloucestershire where I'm now based.
The car didn't miss a beat but I worry about the whine through all the gears being the idler bearing and it's also tiring on the ears. Speaking of - I don't think the previous owner has done a great job fitting the nice expensive new carpet they got as it slips about and there is no sound deadening material under it. One could drive in a significantly quieter cabin with some rubber damping mats on the wheel arches, some extra underfelt, proper door seals, stopping the rear wheels from rumbling, cancel out the exhaust drone at 50-55, and sorting whatever is whining.
The list of jobs grows again!
The weather in the south west may also necessitate adding an intermittent wiper switch and finding some blades that don't bloody squeak!
Can't help you with the idler bearing but second the dynamat I used it extensively on mine - the foil backed stuff and the rubber sound deadening - made a huge difference particularly on the bulkhead (as you've noted alternative versions of the same thing are available!!!) - as well as making sure I had new grommets for holes in bulkhead for cables and blanking ones where no cables! I had a mate who was an upholsterer assist me with refitting the carpet and it made a big difference getting them to fit nicely - he had steamers and all sorts of useful tools! Again concur re the wheel bearings. Re the booming, I don't know if 2200's had the bean can silencer towards the back but having one of those helps - I also renewed all the bobbins on the exhaust to minimise resonance. I didn't do this myself - it took an exhaust place less than half an hour and saved a lot of aggro. I redid all the door edging which reduced wind noise a lot but never got it 100% on the passenger door - despite adjusting door as well but it was fine up to 70 ish and still quite bearable above that even on long high speed journeys. Ref wipers - good luck - rain x, silicon - all worked for a while, but not for long. At least the Rain X means you don't have to use the the wipers except when stationary. |
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Post by halkyon on Mar 29, 2023 18:27:49 GMT
Yes, I've smothered it with RainX and don't really need wipers until the inevitable happens and a lorry covers the screen in water and dirt. Then the unholy squeaking begins!
Thinking on the whine I become more paranoid about the idler gear, as there is also a noticable rattle at idle.  |
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 30, 2023 0:09:18 GMT
The idler gear can make more noise than usual if the tickover is on the low side or is uneven. Rear wheel bearings need to be set up precisely as per the w/s manual as far as end play is concerned to ensure they are not overtightened, otherwise straight forward as Chris said.
David
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Post by halkyon on Apr 1, 2023 18:16:09 GMT
Tex 14"/355mm wiper blades from Holden do not squeak so far...
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Post by halkyon on Apr 4, 2023 16:46:23 GMT
I took the crab to see Adrian in Birmingham today. He was very generous with his time and reckons it sounds a little harsh compared to the normal whine and it's worth doing the idler bearing.
That'll be in a couple of months and plenty to do unil then!
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 5, 2023 11:17:33 GMT
Should be OK but worth checking the dipstick regularly for any sign of aluminium glistening in the oil and listen for any changes in the whining note.
David
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Post by halkyon on Apr 7, 2023 17:03:44 GMT
Some horrific noises have been coming from the rear right brakes since I took the car out of storage so I took the drum off to take a look today.
Ouch!
Both shoe retaining pins and springs were still in place but it looks like something has been loose inside as the shoes look fine to me. Regardless, I've replaced the drum and have new shoes in the post.
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Post by halkyon on Apr 24, 2023 13:35:59 GMT
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Post by halkyon on Apr 30, 2023 16:29:32 GMT
I've been getting started with some soundproofing this weekend but was blocked by finding that the floor was holed near the N/S front wheel arch, along the seam where a previous repair was poorly welded.
On cutting it out I'm a little puzzled - on the sill side there are two layers of metal, the right side there is one, the bulkhead up to four where previous repairs are?!
My thought is clamp the left edges together and run a seam weld along them, and something similar with a thin strip of steel at the top edge to bring them all down to the (normal?) single skin before stitching a repair section in?
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Post by Penguin45 on Apr 30, 2023 17:52:38 GMT
You have three layers of metal coming together in the corner there.  Gusset plate by Penguin 45, on Flickr Side view. Sorry about the quality pic. The bottom layer - "gusset plate" - is what ties the entire front corner together and is crucial to the strength of the shell. It actually looks like this:  Gusset plate by Penguin 45, on Flickr One I made earlier.... Its a RH one, so picture it reversed. Yours has gone through above the large hole. That's open underneath and acts as a highly effective waterscoop, steering water between the layers - see the bulkhead repair in your own photo. HTH, Chris. |
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Post by halkyon on May 3, 2023 19:24:43 GMT
[deleted previous post]
Going out to look at it again after beginning to weld in a patch... it didn't make sense to me after seeing your diagram. So back to the drawing board, or rather, angle grinder.
What I think has happened and confused me is a previous repair was done by cutting the area out and then plating from below to seal the hole. As such, there was only the gusset plate meeting the floor as a butt weld along the back edge of it. I wasn't seeing enough layers because the floor section between where the gusset starts and the bulkhead just isn't there along some of the width.
The new plan is to start by filling in the missing area of gusset plate, then the floor on top, then the strip of bulkhead after removing the patch at the bottom of the wheel arch and trying to do a neater job. This might be slightly complicated by what seems to be another layer where this all meets the sill, is that an overlap or a repair standing a little proud perhaps? 
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Post by Penguin45 on May 3, 2023 23:36:39 GMT
I think your method is correct. Sort the gusset plate out first, then floor back over the top. My earlier picture is incorrect - the floor turns up into the bulkhead, not the other way round.
It does appear that the floor has had previous repairs to the upturn onto the bulkhead - looks like several layers in some places. You might want to check that a bit further. Patches over rust just lead to more rust.
C.
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Post by halkyon on May 22, 2023 11:36:56 GMT
Car is welded up and driving again, I still need to do the OS "fish bowl" and a little hole above a displacer which will require tearing a lot of interior out or depressurising the suspension but those are for another day, and the latter maybe for a garage when I'm not feeling broke.
There is noticably less road noise already with some sound proofing rather than none!
I didn't mention it here but I replaced the brake servo non-return valve recently in an attempt to eliminate the rattling at idle. Didn't seem to work - how about adding one of the anti-pulse valves to the line? They reduce the jitter for the vacuum advance at so why not there too?  |
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Post by halkyon on Jun 4, 2023 8:36:58 GMT
how about adding one of the anti-pulse valves to the line? They reduce the jitter for the vacuum advance at so why not there too? It worked!
Now the crab is in a good state, idler bearing and rusty fishbowl aside, attention turns to the Pao and its deteriorating wheel arches and sills. I wish I was better at painting...
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