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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 4, 2023 17:30:04 GMT
Interesting. I've a one way valve for the servo fitted, but I've not heard of anti-pulse valves before.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 6, 2023 0:00:38 GMT
They are especially useful when the vacuum advance is taken from the manifold to avoid timing jitter caused by the vacuum pulsing at idle. This can be essential when using a sensitive MAP sensor with electronic systems. Homemade "valves" can be made from in line fuel filters, they provide damping rather than acting as valves. David Interesting. I've a one way valve for the servo fitted, but I've not heard of anti-pulse valves before. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jun 6, 2023 6:31:04 GMT
There's always something new to learn about.
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Post by halkyon on Jun 9, 2023 11:16:04 GMT
Finally got around to timing the engine and it was down at 5 degrees! Set to the book figure of 12 before testing anything punchier.
Not convinced the vacuum advance is working either.
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Post by jeff on Jun 9, 2023 13:19:56 GMT
If you remove the distributor cab and disconnect the small vacuum pipe from the carburettor, you should be able to suck...just..and see the distributor innards move a bit.
A small hand held vacuum pump would be even better.
If there's no sign of movement, check the pipe isn't split or blocked, particularly the rubber ends.
Any leak will allow air in and possibly upset the carburettor settings, especially on tick over.
Jeff
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Post by halkyon on Jun 10, 2023 17:09:23 GMT
Thanks jeff that will be my next task once I'm off some pretty heavy painkillers for back problems. Thought I'd have longer than my mid thirties to develop those! 🙄
A Codeine-addled musing perhaps, but are the 2200s over-carbed for normal driving? I can imagine needing them (twin HS6) at 5200 rpm with the throttle wide open, but might HS4s perform a little better in all other conditions (thinking of torque) with the relatively modest displacement? Much larger engines also use twin HS6s, some Jaguars, from memory.
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Post by halkyon on Jun 17, 2023 12:02:22 GMT
Did about 100 miles over the last three days while it has been pushing 30°c.
Half way through the journey the engine died completely at some traffic lights, no spark whatsoever. I've never had an ignition coil go since getting my first classic in 2014 before but this was the day. Luckily a lady who is a tractor and land rover enthusiast stopped and gave me a spare at the side of the road! The classics community really comes through sometimes, I'll be tracking her down at the South Cerney Steam Fair to repay her!
She also spotted uneven tyre wear at the front, so I have a new concern that I've got knackered bushes or the tracking has been knocked out again.
I then had a couple of instances of no-starts. Either just a **click** when turning the key like the starter was jammed, or a light rattle as if the starter was not fully engaging. I'm wondering if this is likely increased resistance in the circuit from the heat, or perhaps fuel vapour locking from the heat? I note the twin HS6s have no float bowl overflow or vent. What happened both times is I'd spray contact cleaner and jiggle the connections around a bit, and rock the car in first gear, but I have no proof that it was doing either of these things or simply waiting for things to cool a little that solved it.
Either way, I'm tempted to go through all the wiring again and service the starter, perhaps I could try vent and charcoal canister install. I'd hate to lose trust in the car again!
Half way before she refused to start, feeling relieved with a working coil:
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Post by dave1800 on Jun 17, 2023 12:32:47 GMT
Worth checking the ground strap from the body to the engine and the one from the battery to the body to ensure there is no corrosion at the connections as well as the leads to the starter. It doesn't take much to prevent a starter from turning, but it does sound as though it could be a brush issue. Unfortunately modern coils can be unreliable so carrying a spare is always worthwhile (as you found out  . David |
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Post by halkyon on Jul 6, 2023 16:38:03 GMT
I can't find a local garage that will touch the alignment on the crab. "Not in our system mate".
Axle stands and a piece of string?
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 6, 2023 17:16:58 GMT
It works! 1/8" (3.2mm) toe-in. Check you've got the correct ride height first.
C.
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Post by foglaursen on Jul 7, 2023 9:44:16 GMT
I use Gunson Trakrite. It works very well. Peter  |
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Post by halkyon on Sept 7, 2023 15:08:45 GMT
I found myself a classic tool for a classic car in the end - a long pole with sliding adjustable arms and measurements on, like a ruler made of scaffold - to do my alignment.
Other than that and finally getting some steel wheels to refurb (Rover P4/P5) I've run out of steam a bit so I thought I'd take the car to a garage for a mock-MOT to give me a kick up the backside.
- my welding was approved by a professional!
- horn doesn't work,
- washers barely work,
- handbrake crap - the handbrake cable arm is on backwards on the O/S - wasn't me honest,
- sidelights intermittent,
- o/s rear door outside handle button doesn't work,
- I haven't gotten around to putting the bump-stops on yet
I'd add to that - fit MGB anti-rattle clips to the front brakes because they're very irritating!
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 8, 2023 8:34:17 GMT
my welding was approved by a professional! Yay!horn doesn't work, Bad earth.washers barely work, Electric pump? Bad earth.handbrake crap - the handbrake cable arm is on backwards on the O/S - wasn't me honest, Don't try and set the cable too tight. Make sure bell cranks all move freely. Make sure cylinders can slide on the backplate.sidelights intermittent, Bad eartho/s rear door outside handle button doesn't work, Rod popped off probably.I haven't gotten around to putting the bump-stops on yet When you get a moment...I'd add to that - fit MGB anti-rattle clips to the front brakes because they're very irritating! Good info. Not heard that one.Plenty of fettling; nothing serious. Bad earths are an on-going battle on these - especially the main one on the inner wing. Chris. |
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Post by halkyon on Sept 8, 2023 12:59:02 GMT
sidelights intermittent, Bad earthI hope you're right because I think the only other thing it could be is the switch, which is unobtainable as far as I can tell! |
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 9, 2023 6:44:31 GMT
If they both flicker together it would be worth spraying contact cleaner into the switch; jump the contacts to confirm it is the switch. If they are not synchronous then corrosion in the sidelights is the likely culprit. David sidelights intermittent, Bad earthI hope you're right because I think the only other thing it could be is the switch, which is unobtainable as far as I can tell! |
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