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Post by paddymk2 on Apr 16, 2018 10:48:09 GMT
Hi Dave, Thanks for the encouragement and input. I am learning heaps through this investigation and it seems like for every, "Oh no" moment coupled to a jump to the worst conclusion there's practical ways out. Sometimes it takes a second go - but that's called learning. So while I was sitting in the car waiting for things to warm up I figured out the washer and wipers. And there's plenty of other niggles - like the rear windows - but that can be for another page. We've swapped to normal (back from daylight saving) in the garage to get in in the weekdays. So its only weekend access to get another look at things. I did try the rubber tipped gauge again - but without a helper to hold it tight , it just popped out of the hole. I am getting the car out a little more, since I think running it is good for it and me. Cheers Paddy
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 17, 2018 12:56:02 GMT
Hi Paddy.
What we are doing is asking you to carry out all the checks in a logical sequence to determine the cause(s) of the apparently low compression and overheating. I think the next thing is to carry out the smoke test to see whether there is a valve or ring problem or any air leaks from the manifold and attachments. The lack of any blue smoke from the exhaust is encouraging as that hopefully means the rings are serviceable. If the smoke test reults are clear I suggest checking the valve timing, not too difficult. You may be able to re-use the rocker cover gasket while carrying out the next round of checks and replace it when all is sorted.
It may sound tempting to consider removing the cylinder head at this stage but I beieve it is good practice to check the basic things first rather than carry out all that work for nothing and still not resolve the issue.
David
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Post by paddymk2 on May 4, 2018 8:15:00 GMT
Hi Dave If I can get to it
I would
1 redo the compression test
2 Do the smoke test
(which I assume is:
remove the valve cover, remove all spark plugs, move each cylinder to tdc, puff smoke into spark plug hole, and look to see where and if it comes out of the valves?)
Regards Paddy
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Post by dave1800 on May 4, 2018 9:18:18 GMT
The smoke test when you can get out of the kitchen Remove spark plugs, air filter and oil filler cap, pass smoke into each cylinder in turn after ensuring the inlet and exhaust valves are both closed. If the smoke comes out of the carb inlet then the inlet valve is not seating or burned, if out of the exhaust pipe it's the exhaust valve. If from an adjacent cylinder suspect the head gasket. You will get some smoke from the oil filler cap but it should be limited. The smoke from the oil filler cap should roughly equal for each cylinder - if for example one is worse then the rings for that cylinder are suspect and you can repeat the test after adding oil into the cylinder to seal the rings. Also check for any smoke leaking from the inlet manifold gasket and all take offs. You can also feed smoke in from the brake servo take off into the manifold and see where it appears. Can you confirm that there is no oil in the water or water in the oil by checking removing the radiator cap and checking the dipstick. Also that when the engine is running there are no bubbles appearing in the radiator - rev the engine- be careful! David
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