|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 6, 2018 13:38:34 GMT
The gauges all vary for a number of reasons. The small bi-metallic voltage regulators age as does the wiring. It isn't possible therefore to say whether empty really means empty or there may be a gallon left. It certainly is preferable to not let the tank run low to prevent the inevitable rust flakes from being drawn into the fuel pump. I would recommend fiting an in-line fuel filter if there isn't one already. I can only suggest Tony Wood may have the gasket or make one from silicon rubber. David Hi Dave, Had a look and it's got the later version of the system with the feed into the forward right of the carburettor base. It works OK too - open the rocker cap & the rpm climbs a bit & vice versa. You wouldn't happen to know btw, how much reserve do I have when fuel gauge hits empty and is there anywhere I can find the *outer* gasket for a rhs rear light cluster? PS: It's *much* easier to get the taillight on & off when you need to if you fit them with wingnuts. You want M5 thread nuts, and I've used plastic/nylon ones - 4 each side for the Wolseley. This should work for the others - but there will be one nut with an earth, so watch for that. |
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on Sept 7, 2018 8:12:34 GMT
Re the fuel gauge. I can get 10 gallons in from almost empty on the gauge (until it clicks) but then it dribbles out & the gauge indicates F plus a segment. I'd imagine that means, given I can do 50 miles before it hits F that the reserve is about 2 gallons (so in total - 12 gallons in there).
Next refuel I'm going to put in 8 gallons and I expect it to be dead on F.
Did pump heads use to be much bigger or something? Because you could fit two modern pumps down the fuel filler at once!
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Sept 10, 2018 18:16:34 GMT
10½ gallon tank = 47.5 litres. Filled mine up today as the gauge was exactly on the bottom mark, added 44.1 litres, so there was about ¾ gallon left in.
Personally, with the quality of Smiths senders, gauges, voltage stabilisers, Lucas dynamo and voltage regulator and 48 year old wiring, I wouldn't trust an individual gauge at all until you've been using it for a while and got a feeling for what it's telling you.
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by peppib on Sept 11, 2018 6:55:05 GMT
Mo runs out of fuel (going uphill admittedly) before the gauge reads zero. You just get a feel for the car and its quirks.
As for the fuel filler pipe, when these cars were made it was leaded fuel. When unleaded came along, the pump nozzles and filler pipes were made smaller to differentiate and prevent leaded fuel being pumped into unleaded cars
Dave
|
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on Sept 14, 2018 14:36:33 GMT
Mo runs out of fuel (going uphill admittedly) before the gauge reads zero. You just get a feel for the car and its quirks.
As for the fuel filler pipe, when these cars were made it was leaded fuel. When unleaded came along, the pump nozzles and filler pipes were made smaller to differentiate and prevent leaded fuel being pumped into unleaded cars
Dave I remember when they did that but the fuel filler on my Sceptres (top of wing) was only slightly bigger than the unleaded nozzle - the Wolseley one is like a cavern in comparison although the design of the fuel cap/flap is quite clever, and I think it was used on other cars (opening at different angles). I just don't really want to be driving down the road in a haze of neat petrol every time I fill up.. Incidentally there is a modded fuel tank for these on eBay at the moment - the feed has been moved from the back of the tank to the side and the usual outlet sealed off. |
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on Sept 14, 2018 15:05:12 GMT
10½ gallon tank = 47.5 litres. Filled mine up today as the gauge was exactly on the bottom mark, added 44.1 litres, so there was about ¾ gallon left in. Personally, with the quality of Smiths senders, gauges, voltage stabilisers, Lucas dynamo and voltage regulator and 48 year old wiring, I wouldn't trust an individual gauge at all until you've been using it for a while and got a feeling for what it's telling you. Chris. The part that doesn't make sense - which I will sort out soon is if I put in 10g then it shows full plus (it goes right to the right hand side well past the full mark). If I therefore put in 8g next time - it *should* be on the F mark. If that's the case then a full tank (to the F mark) will be 8g + 2g reserve - or about 45-60 miles depending on conditions. Every single other car I've ever driven has had about a 50 mile reserve - varying in age between 1964 to 2010, I'd be surprised if the Wolseley is any different. In other news, the fuel cut off valve has arrived - dinky little thing but surprisingly well made for the price - so when I've run the tank down a little more I'll get someone to help me fit it, I'm going to use it like a manual immobiliser - an automatic cut switch (as used in modern EFI to cut the fuel in accidents) is beyond my skills & I'm not sure how one would react to the electrics - part of the reason for buying another classic was the kiss principle. It looks like the spitfire cable is making a big difference - it certainly hot starts better & seems to be doing better mpg. The car is running *much* better in the cooler weather - almost as smooth as a modern EFI - I had a look but it looks like a non waxstat jet so it just doesn't like 32°+ heat (neither do I). |
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Sept 14, 2018 17:30:43 GMT
Incidentally there is a modded fuel tank for these on eBay at the moment - the feed has been moved from the back of the tank to the side and the usual outlet sealed off. No, that's a b@ggered tank that someone's messed with. I wouldn't go anywhere near it. Chris. |
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Sept 15, 2018 1:06:52 GMT
Some comments added in blue
David
10½ gallon tank = 47.5 litres. Filled mine up today as the gauge was exactly on the bottom mark, added 44.1 litres, so there was about ¾ gallon left in. Personally, with the quality of Smiths senders, gauges, voltage stabilisers, Lucas dynamo and voltage regulator and 48 year old wiring, I wouldn't trust an individual gauge at all until you've been using it for a while and got a feeling for what it's telling you. Chris. The part that doesn't make sense - which I will sort out soon is if I put in 10g then it shows full plus (it goes right to the right hand side well past the full mark). If I therefore put in 8g next time - it *should* be on the F mark. If that's the case then a full tank (to the F mark) will be 8g + 2g reserve - or about 45-60 miles depending on conditions. Every single other car I've ever driven has had about a 50 mile reserve - varying in age between 1964 to 2010, I'd be surprised if the Wolseley is any different. You are probably right, but there is no guarantee. Peppib has noted his car runs out of fuel before the "E" mark. Remember while the sender may be linear the tank sides are curved so you will not get a linear response from the gauge. (Modern cars can correct the measurements through software). Certainly not a good idea to run out of fuel and draw the grot out of the bottom of the tank. In other news, the fuel cut off valve has arrived - dinky little thing but surprisingly well made for the price - so when I've run the tank down a little more I'll get someone to help me fit it, I'm going to use it like a manual immobiliser - an automatic cut switch (as used in modern EFI to cut the fuel in accidents) is beyond my skills & I'm not sure how one would react to the electrics - part of the reason for buying another classic was the kiss principle. It looks like the spitfire cable is making a big difference - it certainly hot starts better & seems to be doing better mpg. The inertia switches are available for MGBs from Moss and others as they use electric fuel pumps so they are simply wired in series with the pump power lead. They could also be used with the fuel cut off valve (assuming it's electrically operated and the current rating matches the inertia switch).
The car is running *much* better in the cooler weather - almost as smooth as a modern EFI - I had a look but it looks like a non waxstat jet so it just doesn't like 32°+ heat (neither do I).
|
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on Sept 16, 2018 15:55:59 GMT
So far as I can tell the car has a pump run off the crankshaft/camshaft. It's down the back of the motor on the drivers side, bolted into the engine. It doesn't look like an electric pump - looks like the type the sceptre had which has a little arm that is moved by a cam.
Theres a very short piece of flexible hose and then a long piece of steel pipe across the back, to the flexible section I replaced up to the float chamber.
It seems to be a real bitza.
|
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Sept 16, 2018 16:57:19 GMT
Sounds like the original factory set-up.  Chris. |
|
|
|
Post by rosieuk on Sept 16, 2018 18:08:36 GMT
Sounds like the original factory set-up. Chris. Yeah I guessed as much, but it's got a MK2 body, a God alone knows what interior, a rod change transmission & apparently a MK3 engine which therefore - the books say as far as I can tell uses an electric pump - with a drop link engine driven pump which I assume is fuel pump, mk1, manual, for the use of. The headlight flasher is on its last legs too but I suspect the switch there (or a loose connection, since it sometimes works) I'd love to find an example of the intake heater kit that was optional - but I'd love even more to work out how it didn't set the thing on fire given the open element downstream of the carb.. |
|
Hi Dave,
