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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 16, 2020 19:49:57 GMT
Thanks to both. Whilst refurbishing rear brakes on mine managed to snap square end off one adjuster. Had been Standing for 30 odd years though. Shall purchase a couple of those capacitors and make up as spares.
Tony S
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 27, 2020 0:14:30 GMT
I've been a bit busy, so I'm afraid this hasn't been updated. Been an interesting week or so.
The 2M100 starter motor I was so pleased with decided to become as lazy as the old one. Re-fettled the old one (oiled the bearings) and stuck that back on, it went whizz, so that's staying for a bit. Based on that, I've ordered up new bushes and brushes for the 2M100 and we'll re-do it properly. If THAT doesn't work, I don't know what I'll do as I have no real confidence in the old M35G.
Went to set up the handbrake properly for the MoT test (She always fails on the handbrake). Lubricated and worked every pivot, bell crank and clevis pin; then went to set the shoes. The offside one seemed to be taking a long time to lock. A very long time.... The thread which I re-cut had stipped as soon as the load came on. Which was nice. Found a spare backplate and had the adjuster off that. Cleaned it, lubricated it, fitted it, adjusted it. MoT failed on handbrake!
Now to be fair, this is a new garage to me, having moved. They were very thorough (After we got past the "Cor, look at that" phase from all the mechanics.) and I thought very fair. Advisory for play on a ball joint, pin hole in a cv boot and a steering rack boot. Failed the test on the handbrake. I pointed out that it did this every year and all we had to do was let me sit in the boot (Yes, really...). "You can't do that" was the reply.
So home again and new cv boot, steering rack boot, re-shim and lubricate three ball joints in the end and re-do the handbrake. Re-test today. Handbrake much better, but not quite good enough. "What did you say you usually did?" said Rick the Tester (See, we're getting along better already). "Sit in the boot" says I. "Hmm. Go on then". Pass.
To celebrate, I've fitted the ignition shield I found whilst hunting out a steering rack boot.
I'm taking Tuesday off.
Chris.
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 27, 2020 12:22:42 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 29, 2020 3:24:25 GMT
OK Chris, you cannot get away without providing the answer to why the handbrake doesn't meet MOT requirements unless you sit in the boot!
I do recall an early road test of a Mk1 car noted that when parked nose first on a 1 in 4 gradient that it would slowly creep forwards with the rear wheels locked.
David
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 31, 2020 15:47:05 GMT
Didn't that thing about handbrake end up on the Aronline story? Odd that putting a weight in the back would affect the handbrake - I know that both the ado17 and the supercinq that I inherited had a load adjusting sensor in the rear brakes - but that isn't connected into the linkage for the handbrake. *Unless* the load sensor is slightly backing off the handbrake independently - ie the pressure in the system downstream of the load sensor (light rear = closed?) is counter pressurising your handbrake?
An experiment might be to find a hill or slope that the car *won't* hold on - and do what I always do - press the footbrake hard while engaging the handbrake. If the car subsequently holds on that slope and doesn't move, you've found your issue. I suspect that with the footbrake depressed the load valve might be either open or part open - which means the handbrake will not get any resistance from circuit pressure.
Kind of feels like the "hot air" carburettor tuning bodge.
I also remember something about Issigonis not putting up (or more likely the beancounters) not putting up for any kind of testing program before releasing the car - 3 prototypes used for blasting down local motorways and going to the shops - when even the challenger tank (hydrogas) did 22,000 miles plus of road/cc testing.
Then released it in France - on French roads. It didn't end well apparently - to paraphrase Richard Nixon "upchucking one's bamboo" was a highly likely occurance.* ride and pressure tuning of the suspension was rapidly done, I suspect reducing pressure, because I made the mistake of getting mine checked and slightly repressured in the winter and it can get a little bouncy in very hot weather..
*Futurama reference.
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Post by rosieuk on Oct 31, 2020 16:27:11 GMT
Incidentally - with the green car having a rod box and the black heap having a cable change I can tell there's a major difference. If you know the positions on the rod box then going back to the cable box is similar you just have zero feeling at all - it's like the stick is connected via a small black hole - I can see why people complained about it - but once you are accustomed - I doubt there is much difference. Muscle memory takes over.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 10, 2020 18:49:30 GMT
Right. I have no idea why the handbrake works as it does. The rear brakes have now been stripped to component level. Backplates stripped, de-rusted and painted. All pivots, bell cranks and moving parts have been stripped, cleaned and re-assembled with plenty of copper slip. It now locks on the fourth click and seems to be holding fine. By way of the car thanking me, I went over to the garage this morning to do some motorbikey stuff and found her leaning in a pool of liquid. Well, thank you very much. Drained the remaining fluid and pulled it all apart.  IMG_8220 by Penguin 45, on Flickr  IMG_8221 by Penguin 45, on Flickr  IMG_8222 by Penguin 45, on Flickr  IMG_8223 by Penguin 45, on Flickr  IMG_8224 by Penguin 45, on Flickr Gone at the output end. Various cracks and chafe marks to be seen. WIll investigate the other garage tomorrow and see what I've got stashed. In the meantime, the suspension is largely dismantled and is being cleaned and stripped of rust. Chris. |
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Post by rosieuk on Nov 11, 2020 9:09:38 GMT
Sorry to see all the problems. Hope you manage to fix it up.
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 11, 2020 20:01:20 GMT
Cheers, Rosie. Almost there now. Tidy looking displacer dug out of the darker recesses of the small garage.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Nice diaphragms. Fingers crossed when I inflate it.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Going back together. Gave the cross tube a good dose of Dynax S70 cavity wax whilst accessible. Housing and arms wire-wheeled and painted. Tie bar removed in this pic. Getting the pivot bolt out required heat and the 5lb copper mallet swung vigorously. Two part bush at the bottom of the housing replaced with a single piece one with new pin. "Do not tighten until laden". Replaced tie-bar and housing with new components. Finally acquired a brand new housing a couple of months back, so bit of a no-brainer not to change it whilst the opportunity was presented.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Tie-bar bushes. Left hand one was at the front and has held up quite well. Right hand one was at the rear and is chewing up as can be seen.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr New housing, new bar, experimental bushes. I'll have this off again in a couple of hundred miles and see what's happening. The bushes are adapted from an American Ford pick-up truck and are polyurethane. With a bit of luck I may never have to touch them again. Will do a full report eventually.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Bar back on the lower arm. The brown marks are copper slip oozing out of the pivot point. Not going through that again. So, inflate her and get her back on the floor tomorrow, lock up the lower suspension pivot and hopefully we're off again. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 12, 2020 19:49:42 GMT
She's up.
Locking the suspension pivot with the car on the ground was an interesting experience. Crows foot sockets, torque wrench and restricted space do not an easy task make. The WM instructions are not entirely logical. They tell you not to lock either end of the pin until the car is on the ground. Now one end is a taper joint, so surely you just clamp that end down, assemble it all, drop it on the floor and set the other end to the torque setting? I did the tapered end first, to try and make sure that the pin is dragged fully home, but I've got no way of being sure.
Chris.
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Post by tonymark3 on Nov 12, 2020 22:51:58 GMT
Well I can’t believe they did it like that on the production line!
it’s an ill wind though as you’ve tarted up all those parts. Clouds and silver linings.
oh, and agreed what you said to Chalky, tied myself in knots refitting window regulators.
Tony S
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 13, 2020 0:00:51 GMT
David probably knows the answer.  Anyway, I'm going to have to do it all again. Can't have new bushes on one side and not the other. So, if it's going to come apart, I might as well clean and paint at the same time. Oh, yes, driveshaft output oil seal. When I lifted the car, it tipped (obviously) and oil was dribbling out. Not a little drip drip, so that's got to be dealt with. Oh, fun, fun, fun. Apart from window mechanisms. Not fun at all. Ever.  C. |
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 13, 2020 6:51:10 GMT
No, David doesn't know the answer!! If I recall correctly I assembled the lower arm one piece bush by tightening the nut on the tapered end to ensure it was pulled through and then the nut on the other end with the arm in the normal ride position under no load, then attached it to the hub.
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 15, 2020 14:46:01 GMT
On with the motley. Off side stripped, suspension components stripped, cleaned and painted.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Much nicer. An ex-Zetland tech commented on another forum that the suspension housing was known as a "chicken" in Australia. This one's been basted with silver wheel paint.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr And there with its legs back on. New bottom pivot bush and pin fitted. I have torqued the taper end home this time. Will set the other end once she's back on the floor. With the driveshaft pulled back out of the way, I removed the driveshaft output cover on the gearbox.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Yup, that'll leak a bit.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Superior quality replacement fitted. Inner driveshaft replaced at the same time. There was damage to the claw from the last time the hairy rubber spider rubber coupling let go. More soon, Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Nov 15, 2020 16:22:41 GMT
Smashing. Isn’t it a pleasure to be fitting nice clean parts.
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