cybercontroller
Member
Posts: 107
Attribute: Waiting for the right Landcrab
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Post by cybercontroller on Oct 1, 2020 16:28:21 GMT
I guess many of us lack all the desirable skills and resources like a garage.
I would look to go the advert route at some point but need to wait now anyway as viewing would be difficult in the current situation.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 1, 2020 19:09:33 GMT
Patience is the new normal. Over in Yeadon, I could nip down to the local Moss Europe and get lots of useful things. Now all parts are mail order, even allowing for the current restrictions in our activities. Anyway, thank you for the various kind words. I wanted to turn the car round today. The slightly lazy starter motor decided to be very lazy and she wouldn't go. Gave up on what I wanted to do and went and had a rummage in the small garage.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Found this. A Lucas 2M100 starter motor. This is after I'd attacked it with a wire brush - it did look as though it had spent some time at the bottom of the sea. It's got 24659B stamped on it. Did some checking and it's listed as a 'Crab suitable part. Also date marked as June 71, so I'll justify it as a replacement under warranty.  Everything felt stiff and sticky, so a thorough round of wire brushing and cleaning ensued.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr. Some time later. Lovely.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Armature going back together. If it moves, it's slathered in oil. Commutater cleaned and polished, carbon brushes re-faced.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Field coil body painted. Re-assemble it all tomorrow and see what it does. Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 1, 2020 19:28:49 GMT
Nice job. When I took mine apart , as you say, the amount of goo was amazing. First time it was dismantled from new. Guess I should get new brush set. Winter job.
Tony S
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 2, 2020 15:42:34 GMT
Pretty straightforward, really. Once you get the through bolts moving.... Your one might be more involved as I imagine you've got a pre-engaged starter rather than the Bendix? Still a simple machine.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr All back together. Ran like stink when I hooked a battery to it.  VOF707J by Penguin 45, on Flickr Previous resident removed. That's an M35G. Note that the 2M100 is considerably slimmer, so slides into place much more easily. Space is restricted by the front cross member and the oil filter cannister. Indulged in a serious bout of terminal cleaning - battery, lives and earths - as good practice. I'd like to say that the torque was sufficient to flip the car over its nose onto the roof, but that would be untrue. It did spin the engine over very quickly, resulting in an instant start, so I'll take that as a result. Then I drove the car 20' in order to turn her round.  Chris. |
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 2, 2020 18:20:06 GMT
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 2, 2020 23:12:24 GMT
British Leyland Purchasing Office. January 1971.
Lucas - "We sell you new 2M100 motors."
BL - "How long will they last?"
Lucas - "10 year."
BL - "M35G lasted 20 years."
Lucas - Bendix better mechanism."
BL - "Right. 2M100 with Bendix. What's that lump on the side?"
Lucas - "Integral solenoid. Improve profitablity on servicing."
BL - "Are you mad? This is British Leyland. We don't do profitable."
Lucas - "OK. 2M100 with Bendix and no solenoid. Only 'til 1973. Cash up front please."
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 4, 2020 0:45:30 GMT
Chris the shiny bits are starting to out number the others! Won't be long and you will only be taking it out on sunny days!😁
Its a massive difference looking back at your early posts! They say you have mastered something after around 10000 hours. At a rough estimate how many hours do you think you have in the car?
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 4, 2020 3:43:02 GMT
Funny, I was thinking something similar quite recently. Not sure there are (m)any sunny days on the Pennines  David Chris the shiny bits are starting to out number the others! Won't be long and you will only be taking it out on sunny days!😁 Its a massive difference looking back at your early posts! They say you have mastered something after around 10000 hours. At a rough estimate how many hours do you think you have in the car? Nick |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 4, 2020 12:00:43 GMT
Chris the shiny bits are starting to out number the others! Won't be long and you will only be taking it out on sunny days!😁 Its a massive difference looking back at your early posts! They say you have mastered something after around 10000 hours. At a rough estimate how many hours do you think you have in the car? Nick No idea really. Must have added a 150 or so with this round of work. In a way it doesn't matter now that I've retired. It was when I was trying to fit this sort of stuff around working full time that it was interesting. Funny, I was thinking something similar quite recently. Not sure there are (m)any sunny days on the Pennines David It's quite ironic really. It's been a gorgeous summer here and the car hasn't gone anywhere. The weather is changing markedly now and she's ready to go! Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 12, 2020 16:58:10 GMT
Handbrake starting to get a bit long. N/S adjuster spun up nicely, O/S wouldn't move. At All. Dismantle rear drum. Large copper faced mallet might have been involved. Remove shoes. Clean everything.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Look at that. Disgusting. So - mission objective - remove cone. Penetrating oil. Nope. Duck oil. Nope. Heat. Nope. Sewing machine oil. Yes! Yay! See, Granny did know best.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Oh dear. Out with the taps and dies. 3/ 8" UNF for those interested. Get that and the body recut.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Cleaned it up with the brass wheel and it's all moving freely again. Bent my mind as to why it shoud have got so manky and jammed solid. There's only one source of muck and that's from inside the brake drum itself.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Big box of grommets on the shelf came in handy to plug that big hole in the end. Might help keep it all clean and lubricated. Then it got a bit silly. Cleaned up the brake drum.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Painted it silver. Well, got to be worth at least 10 IBHP. Per side.  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr Looks daft like that, doesn't it?  Brake Adjuster by Penguin 45, on Flickr But, with the wheel back on, it emphasises the slots in the ROStyles rather well. Friend Ron will look at this and might go "Eee, I'll make an engineer out of that lad yet." Well, maybe. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 14, 2020 15:59:52 GMT
Ignition condensers. Hateful things. Modern ones are about as useful as a chocolate tea pot. Further to a comment made by David recently concerning polymer film capacitors, I thought I'd give it a go.  Ignition Condenser by Penguin 45, on Flickr The pins are flimsy, so they're individually shrink wrapped after soldering, then both leads were passed through a further piece of shrink wrap. Final bit of strain relief is provided by the tyrap around the bracket.  Ignition Condenser by Penguin 45, on Flickr Bolted to the distributor clamp plate; piggy back terminal goes to the distributor tag. Both cars run points assisted electronic ignition, so a condenser is not strictly required, unless it fails, when switching back to points will get the car running again. Hence the piggy-back terminal, allowing connection in seconds. If I make another one, I'll make the bracket longer which will make it much easier to fit to the distributor clamp plate. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 15, 2020 11:29:34 GMT
Automotive grade branded 630 volt 0.22uf Kemet or Epcos (TDK) capacitors are available from Farnell and RS components in the UK and many other territories for around £1 each or less. Not worth going for EBAY bargains, they need to be able to handle high temperatures and vibration.
David
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Post by tonymark3 on Oct 15, 2020 15:47:45 GMT
For the dummies amongst us (me ):-
1. Which terminal goes to ground?
2. How do you make connection to distributor?
Thanks
Tony Surman
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 15, 2020 20:25:33 GMT
Its a poly cap, so no orientation. I put a ring terminal on one lead for earth and a piggy back spade terminal to go to the terminal on the distributor on the other. However, there does appear to be an element of doubt as to whether my 630v 0.22uf cap is up to the job. This is definitely up to the job.  Brake Adjustment Tool by Penguin 45, on Flickr Brake adjuster tool. Long arm 7mm Alan key and a 7mm ¼" drive socket. Two minutes with the welder and lo! a brake adjuster. Unashamedly pinched from Herb over on the Wolseley Forum. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 16, 2020 6:04:50 GMT
Ideally you should solder the wires to the capacitor and then pot the leads in epoxy to provide a robust connection in a similar fashion to the description at 3 mins 40 seconds in the video If you are interested in tuning their website has a number of technical videos here David |
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Everything felt stiff and sticky, so a thorough round of wire brushing and cleaning ensued.
