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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 9, 2016 23:03:43 GMT
I love the sound effects! Weren't you going to do something on wheel bearings, now here's your excuse  David It does! It goes wikiwikiwiki when rolling slowly! Otherwise, fair comment, yes, I'll try and do a photo fingy at the weekend. It may just need the bearings stripping, cleaning and repacking with grease. That said, this n/s one wasn't touched during the rebuild, so who knows? The new Genuine Lucas old stock brake light switch turned up this morning and has been fitted. The difference is quite astonishing. The switching action is much heavier (bigger spring?) and the moulded threads are much more clearly defined, so it screws into the bracket properly and the lock nut actually grips. More as it gets done. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 10, 2016 15:28:14 GMT
I'm losing my touch. Three hours to change a hairy rubber spider.....
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 10, 2016 23:38:24 GMT
What problems did you encounter? Too many beer breaks? David I'm losing my touch. Three hours to change a hairy rubber spider..... Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 11, 2016 0:18:40 GMT
3 hours? that's breakneck speed compared to me lol
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 11, 2016 23:02:23 GMT
What kept me? Access. Dismantleability (If it's not a word, it ought to be). Fitness. "U" clamps. Fatigue.
I undid the clamps from underneath the car, which requires working overhead, which cardiac patients are not really meant to do for any length of time. Having finally forced the clamps off, I lacked sufficient strength to prise the shaft apart and drop the joint. Gordon and Snoopy have both used this method on their cars. As a consequence, I had to try and pop off one of the ball joints to allow the shaft to separate. They didn't want to for a little while...... the "U" clamps then didn't want to push back home, so I had to remove the inner end of the shaft to offer the clamps up to whilst I "adjusted" them to the correct spacing. Oddly enough, the only new joint I had left was a cheapy I picked up at an autojumble without new clamps. Then a load of fiddling about trying to put it all back together. It just went on and on. Anyway, it's nice and quiet now.
Indy - if you've got all day to do a job, take all day. Why not? I get a bit frustrated as there's a bit of a programme of work to be completed as part of improving the car and this one task just seemed to go on for ever.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 12, 2016 0:28:31 GMT
Why is it that the jobs that should be (relatively) easy end up being the most frustrating? Thanks for the detailed explanation, I'm sure we've all been there, it's sort of comforting when you learn this happens to other people too. That's why I enjoy some of the Youtube videos where people have posted honest videos. I have recently been trying surface mount component soldering and each one takes me around 5 minutes instead of 5 seconds for a through hole type. Youtube shows that I am not alone in taking so long. Glad it's sorted now. David What kept me? Access. Dismantleability (If it's not a word, it ought to be). Fitness. "U" clamps. Fatigue. Chris. |
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 12, 2016 15:53:48 GMT
What kept me? Access. Dismantleability (If it's not a word, it ought to be). Fitness. "U" clamps. Fatigue. working overhead, which cardiac patients are not really meant to do I lacked sufficient strength Telephone. That's a word and an item of technology you should have used. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 13, 2016 18:26:08 GMT
 Secret weapon acquired for the next time. Chris. |
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Post by peppib on Aug 14, 2016 7:58:37 GMT
That's not a secret weapon - that's an ESSENTIAL bit of kit!
There are 2 full sets of those, one like that and 1 thinner to get into awkward places, in the back of Mo probably looking for a home as the places I can reach now only need a standard spanner.
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 14, 2016 17:54:51 GMT
Garage blitzed.  Ready for visitors.  Chris. |
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Post by peppib on Aug 15, 2016 10:50:05 GMT
It will be a shame to cover it in rust metal again - and that is before you get underneath and start cutting! 
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 11, 2016 20:16:04 GMT
Telephone. That's a word and an item of technology you should have used. I used this magical device during the week, and two blokes turned up this morning, took over the garage, relegated me to tea boy and did a heap of stuff to the Red Dog. Amazing! I'll have to try that one again....... Snoopy and Gordon came over today to help me make the most of the short window before Wayne's car goes back in for more work and I'm very grateful for their efforts. Snoopy and I sorted out the electrics in Wayne's car in the morning, which was frustrating but ultimately worthwhile, before we rolled it out and got the Red Dog in.  Snoopy sweeping up the remains of Wayne's car. Not that much, really.  And the recycling pile. We were trying to deal with a few issues in the front off suspension and transmission. Most notably, the horrible groaning noises coming from the new transmission joint fitted further back up this page needed to be investigated, then there was the small matter of having to top off the suspension every two months. This was the first displacer I had repaired, so was the obvious suspect. There was only room for two big chaps under the car, so I went and finished off the sill repairs performed on the Matiz a few weeks back.  Meanwhile:   The endplate showing below the drive shaft had to be welded back on and the through bolt straightened. Gordon diagnosed this as due to the stabiliser bar not being aligned properly, thus pulling the engine back and putting a permanent load on the bolt and housing. He re-set it all to his satisfaction.  Sure enough, the joint into the displacer was weeping ever so slighly. It's now been re-faced and the hose refitted by two gorillas instead of one small penguin. I doubt that it will leak.  Gordon showing his appreciation of being photographed. Everything went back together eventually. Snoopy took the car up the road and came back to report that the groaning noise was still there. Ho hum, I suppose it must be in the hub instead. Gordon feels it might related to the cone washer. They could, of course, be winding me up. Anyway, good fun day, plenty achieved and plenty of tea drunk. Thanks, chaps. Chris. |
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Sept 11, 2016 22:33:29 GMT
Was thinking about the squeak on way t'house. Since cone washers are new could be the hub worn or as I suggested, may just need torquing up. No not F.T. but with a proper wrench (wrench not wench). I got the socket and wrench if needed.
For those that do not know, the correct torque on the hub is vital. The MOT tester should try to fail it on loose wheel bearing.
Trick is to over-torque then release and put correct on. this way you have a better chance of settling it all down. If split pin hole does not line up it is better to undo rather then tighten. Another point is not to grease the stubshaft threads as this can give a false reading. Degrease it and nut and fit dry.
Sorry to preach to the converted but some one may thank me as the split cones are rarer than hens teeth.
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 12, 2016 2:39:37 GMT
Maybe worth reminding people to first use a thick flat washer to tighten the hub then remove it and tighten against the cone. If there is no wear in the splines then it should be assembled in the same position (so mark it), however is there is wear a different position can be tried. If this does not cure the problem it may be that the preload on the wheel bearings is incorrect and this is critical. The quote figure is 0-4 thou but in practice this is difficult to measure. You should just be able to feel it. I believe that the shims for the ball joints are the correct diameter to help obtain the correct clearance if it is too tight. The advice in the w/s manual is to tighten to allow the split pin to be fitted to the next hole, not back off? That's what you indicated in an earlier post. Am I misunderstanding? Use of Loctite on the splines and hub nut worth considering. David Was thinking about the squeak on way t'house. Since cone washers are new could be the hub worn or as I suggested, may just need torquing up. No not F.T. but with a proper wrench (wrench not wench). I got the socket and wrench if needed. For those that do not know, the correct torque on the hub is vital. The MOT tester should try to fail it on loose wheel bearing. Trick is to over-torque then release and put correct on. this way you have a better chance of settling it all down. If split pin hole does not line up it is better to undo rather then tighten. Another point is not to grease the stubshaft threads as this can give a false reading. Degrease it and nut and fit dry. Sorry to preach to the converted but some one may thank me as the split cones are rarer than hens teeth. |
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 12, 2016 19:41:37 GMT
Gordon showing his appreciation of being photographed. I'm sure he was just asking for one sugar in his tea. |
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