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Post by dave1800 on Jul 30, 2015 8:02:15 GMT
I wonder what an MOT inspector would make of that: extract of tresters' manual s2.4 "Examine the vehicle structure around any sub-frame, spring or suspension component mounting for:
. excessive corrosion (i.e. within the ‘prescribed area’, see Appendix C)
. distortion
. fractures."
David  Suspension housing with small chunk knocked out. |
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 15, 2015 21:14:22 GMT
I've had rather a sticky day today. I thought it was about time the boot had some panels and carpet. I have made the panels from 5mm external quality ply because I don't want damp to delaminate the glues. The carpet is a very thin carpet with no backing that I picked up at a show simply stuck to the ply with a spray on glue. Im struggling to get pictures on. They will have to follow.    |
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 15, 2015 23:43:50 GMT
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Post by indianajones on Aug 18, 2015 7:49:58 GMT
Looking smart mate, do you have the dimensions handy for the backing ply? I don't believe my car has anything like that and would be keen to make some up like it.
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by tony on Aug 21, 2015 7:19:09 GMT
Hi, Chris. I haven't never seen something like this about the front suspension off before. Does it happen when the vehicle is driven often at high speed as of a result? Regards Tony Well, it got done, but it turned into a titanic battle. We were both drowned rats by the time we finished. Suspension off, no real problems. Disconnected the hydro hose, which seemed a bit on the short side. Would the displacer come out? Would it 'eck. Removed carb to give some room to get pry bars in. Nope. In the end, we took the near side suspension off, pulled the displacer out of that side, giving us an open tube. A 5' length of scaffolding pole used as a battering ram through the tube got it out. What a palaver.  Displacer as revealed. Rubber pretty much blown out all round the edge.  Push rod looking very battered on the left. Suspension housing with small chunk knocked out. The housing hasn't cracked, so we've put it back. What I suspect has happened is that the outer push rod has more or less separated from the inner one and done something like this: /\ . The top of the "V" has been rubbing against the suspension housing. You may recall a comment earlier about the suspension "jumping" when we inflated it. I suspect that this is why.  Inboard end of displacer. This one is a pretty epic fail. When we'd finally got the thing out, we managed to re-assemble both sides in little over an hour. Got some pressure in the system and started her up to go for a quick spin before levelling things off properly. There was a most peculiar noise..... Looking into the bonnet showed the o/s drive shaft turning, but no drive to the wheel. Closer investigaation showed that the drive shaft is disconnected inside the CV joint. I wouldn't have thought it possible! Anyway, we were too tired and wet to start pulling the suspension apart again, so that's it for today. I have found a suitable CV joint in the garage, so I'll try and get over again tomorrow. Mark has bought a new toy - a mains electric hammer action wrench. A most impressive bit of kit. Chris. |
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Post by snoopy11 on Aug 27, 2015 19:16:40 GMT
 I have a hole in my dashboard where the silver disk is. Two questions 1. What should be there ? 2. I'm thinking of expanding the hole to take a cigarette lighter type 12v outlet. Can anyone think of any issues doing this ? |
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Post by Nick RS on Aug 27, 2015 22:02:20 GMT
Ignition key slot?
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 19, 2015 15:37:18 GMT
I seem to be having an issue with the car. It's been running very nicely. A couple of weeks ago it ran all the way to ripon and back without missing a beat other than a little pinking and lack of power on hills. I put this down to a timing issue.
I had the timing properly checked and adjusted this morning as it was advanced. On the way home the car lost power and stopped. I thought this was a fuelling issue as the filter looked empty.
I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel is getting to the filter.
The problem I now seem to have is that on tick over it's running nicely. As soon as I apply the throttle it has no power
Anyone any thoughts ??
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 20, 2015 10:14:57 GMT
What a good question! It has a thousand answers.  I find it helpful to analyse the issue on paper if there is no immediately obvious cause as there could be dozens of reasons and the best way forward is to check as many of the easy relevant things as quickly as possible before moving to the more time consuming checks. a) First look at what you have done recently. b) Write down the possible causes of loss of power - are we talking major loss c) Carry out the easy checks Then: Report back for more advice! Looking at what you have done recently
Adjusted the timing. Do you know how much it was retarded? Do you know what the earlier setting was? If so, set it back to where it was and see if the power returns. If it does then examine other causes for the pinking - it may have been weak mixture from the apparently faulty fuel pump. Fuelling - check the level in the float chamber - has the needle valve stuck partially closed? Is there a blockage from the tank allowing sufficient fuel for idling but not enough for running (check the float level after revving the engine and not allowing it to idle to see if it has fallen). Does the lack of power show immediately after idling or a short while later when the fuel level in the float falls (indicating partial blockage). Is the loss of power accompanied by misfiring and spluttering. If not that probably points to an ignition / timing issue rather than fuel starvation. Possible causes of suddden loss of power include Head gasket failure - any oil in water or water in oil Check the compression - if this is OK then there is nothing basically wrong with the engine Ignition coil failure - coils can fail suddenly such that they work at idle but not under load. If you have a spare lying around substitute it - it can be a very frustrating thing to diagnose (personal experience after taking virtually the whole car apart many years ago!) Check the distributor cap, rotor arm, condensor (substitute), ignition leads and plugs. Exhaust blockage, does the car rev OK in neutral, if so it can probably be discounted Insufficient fuel - see above Fuel - did you fill up the tank shortly before the loss of power? Overheating, any signs? Causes of sudden overheating include jammed thermostat, head gasket failure,retarded ignition, weak mixture. It would be helpful if you could give more details about the loss of power. Good luck! David On the way home the car lost power and stopped. I thought this was a fuelling issue as the filter looked empty. I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel is getting to the filter. The problem I now seem to have is that on tick over it's running nicely. As soon as I apply the throttle it has no power Anyone any thoughts ?? |
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Post by tommydp on Sept 20, 2015 10:24:29 GMT
Remove the sender unit from the petrol tank, from the boot floor. Have a look into the tank through the hole. You could be surprised by the quantity of rust flakes, debris there.
I was, as said in a recent thread. No doubt it can block fuel lines, even go through filters and into the float chamber. I would clean the float bowl and remove the suction chamber to blow compressed air down the jet.
Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 20, 2015 11:58:43 GMT
Recent work on the fuelling side included fitting an electric pump back by the tank, an in-line filter near the carburettor and replacing the float valve.
Ignition was replaced with a new electronic distributor, leads, cap and plugs from Accuspark.
Chris.
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 20, 2015 17:38:34 GMT
A bit of tinkering today revealed muck in the bottom of the float chamber. Carb removed, jets etc stripped off and all doused in copious amounts of halfrauds best carb cleaner and re assembled. I haven't road tested it yet but it seems to rev well on the drive.
However. While it was ticking over on the drive I noticed white smoke emitting from the exhaust. That will be the head gasket then...
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Post by tommydp on Sept 20, 2015 18:01:40 GMT
"Good news" about the muck in the float chamber. Most likely the cause of the issues. The tube from the float chamber to jet can get partially blocked by debris so it won't have enough fuel for revving or driving under load. Same symptoms as driving without choke before it's warmed up.
I wouldn't have rushed into taking the head off. The carb cleaner could be the reason for the smoke. Also, in damp weather at least, some whitish smoke when idling from cold doesn't have to be abnormal. Rather normal for the 1800 imo. Mine does it, but it should clear after driving a bit.
Now that you've got the carb clean, I would make sure the ignition timing is spot on and take it for a good drive. Then check the exhaust for abnormal smoke and see that there's no obvious head gasket failure like bad compression, oil in water or water in oil.
Tommy
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Post by snoopy11 on Sept 20, 2015 19:48:40 GMT
I'm certain the smoke is not residue from the carb cleaner. I have let it run for quite a while.
Also when hot the radiator does not have a lot of pressure.
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Post by Penguin45 on Sept 20, 2015 20:24:53 GMT
When am I coming over?  Chris. |
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