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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2012 2:06:33 GMT
It's been quiet here understandably over Christmas so I thought I would open a debate as to which 1800 mark is the best to drive. Having owned Mk1 / several Mk11 (Austin and Wolseley) and two Mk111 models I have my own views that I will expresss later.
The MK1 cars had roller bearings in the suspension arms that were replaced by metalastik in the Mk11/111 versions. Which do you think give the better ride and / or handling? There were also changes to the castor angles both between marks and manual v power steering. Do you prefer the power steering - parking aside?
The brakes servos were changed between the Mk1 and Mk11 cars as were the anti lock /pressure reducing valve design. The suspension changes also affected the braking characteristics with Mk1 car dipping more at the rear. Mk111 cars moved to a simple presure reducing valve. Which system works best? Is it worth upgrading to Mk11S calipers and their bigger discs? I'm sure most will agree that the Mk111 conventional handbrake was an improvement but what about the change from cable to rod gearchange? I'm sure there are many other differences but this is a start.
Happy New Year to everyone!
David
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Post by indianajones on Dec 29, 2012 2:25:43 GMT
Well I don't know much between the different Mk's, but I must say I've grown to like my umbrella handle handbrake -Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2012 7:43:51 GMT
There's always one! Well I don't know much between the different Mk's, but I must say I've grown to like my umbrella handle handbrake -Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Dec 29, 2012 8:25:26 GMT
lol There has to be I guess.
How low to the floor is the 'normal' one? because I feel quite high up in my seats and if it were on the floor it'd be a bit of a reach?
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2012 9:33:34 GMT
The "normal one" is conventionally placed and good for handbrake turns if you are that way inclined. With the umbrella type you needed to use the technique developed by Timo Makinen I think ie left foot braking while using the throttle unless you had arms of a gorilla. lol There has to be I guess. How low to the floor is the 'normal' one? because I feel quite high up in my seats and if it were on the floor it'd be a bit of a reach? -Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Dec 29, 2012 10:58:16 GMT
Interesting thread, David! I've never tried a mk 3 so don't know much about the handbrake and rod change. However, I tried a Princess box in the 1800 for a period, which is identical to the mk 3 I guess. I must say I really like the cable gear arrangement. No vibration and feels very precise and smooth. I've never had any trouble with the cables stretching, breaking etc. The oil leak seems to be the only problem with cable gears imo.
I like the umbrella handbrake too! I think it's the thing I remember most about the Crab from when I was a child, as well as the opening rear quarterlights! Not to forget how much room there was in the back seat for me and my grandparents' collie:-)
The thing that irritates me most about the crab, and which I wonder why they never sorted is the wiper switch. In light rain it's a pain to stretch for the thing and switch it on and off for a single wipe. I've thought of fitting a small, period stalk to the steering column to give a single wipe. Or perhaps a floor switch, like the mk1 dip switch. (Another difference by the way).
I'm starting to believe that (well lubricated) roller bearings are far better than the slipflex bearings. Seems to me the mk1s have higher unladen ride height at the rear. Perhaps it has to do with the fact they have a shorter pushrod for the rear displacer combined with a larger distance piece between the displacer and "frame". I'm thinking of converting to this arrangement as well as roller bearings, to see if it improves things.. My white mk 2 does not have the problem, however...
Seems to me the mk 1 had a rather low 2nd gear, mk 2 is better.
By looks, there's no doubt in my opinion! MK 2 Morris is the best looking of the bunch.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Dec 29, 2012 11:14:02 GMT
Good call on the wiper switch Tommy, that feels like it's bloody miles away when you go to reach for it, and I have pretty long arms!
And another good point with the floor switch for the lights, this took a little getting used to at first, but like the umbrella handbrake, I now love it.
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 29, 2012 15:19:34 GMT
That's a good question, David. Not quite sure how to answer it really.
The old Morris I owned in the '80s was really a pretty tired old hack, but remained comfortable, reasonably quick and surprisingly economical. It had a "sloppy" feel to it when driving, no doubt due to lack of love during its multi-owner life. Mea culpe too..... It was a maroony red MkIII, so had the stylish little fins on the back (Wolseley with fins? Works for me!). I still remember the hand pump screen wash - surely an anacronism even then.
The 18/85 is nominally a MkI auto. It's actually been built out of two cars, as the last owner bought a scrap MkIII Austin and fitted a load of stuff from that to it; most obviously the entire interior. He added the MkIII engine which was replaced last winter by a Princess Gold Seal unit. This gave it the nice snicky snicky rod change. The back end has still got the roller arms; the front, I really couldn't say what is fitted. She has been enlivened slightly with the twin carbs, electronic ignition and the single box exhaust in stainless steel. Not exactly sure of the science, but it all hangs together pretty well!
Brakes have been fully refurbished, with re-faced discs. The biggest single improvement there was to fit GreenStuff brake pads - excellent, thoroughly recommended. Handbrake is on the floor (in the wrong place) and works reasonably well, although access is slightly restricted by the big plump Wolseley seats (The interior was replaced after an 8 year search). I like the idea of the umbrella handbrake and am still pondering what to do about it.
Due to the death of my work van, I had to use the car for work for a fortnight before Christmas and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. She's usually going somewhere, so pottering round Leeds was an interesting experience and reminded me just how practical these cars are. Big boot was definitely useful!
Therefore, I have to say that mine is far and away the best one. ;D
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 31, 2012 2:01:12 GMT
How about setting up a tiny infrared or wireless transmitter (as used in an alarm remote etc) on the steering column with the receiver hidden underneath or inside the dash to actuate the wiper. You could even extend the idea to putting lots of functions on the steering column without wires. The transmitter battery is only used when you press a switch so should last a couple of years or more. Just a crazy thought maybe? David The thing that irritates me most about the crab, and which I wonder why they never sorted is the wiper switch. In light rain it's a pain to stretch for the thing and switch it on and off for a single wipe. I've thought of fitting a small, period stalk to the steering column to give a single wipe. Or perhaps a floor switch, like the mk1 dip switch. (Another difference by the way). Regards, Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 31, 2012 12:07:39 GMT
Witchcraft..........!
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 1, 2013 1:06:15 GMT
Maybe but some would say that about fitting an alternator! Happy New Year everyone David Witchcraft..........! Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 1, 2013 2:34:52 GMT
Not fair..... I had to do it - MrsP gets very upset if I'm not working. Besides, you all got all those lovely pics of how easy it is to do. That said, "new" Scudo cooked its fan motor yesterday - much smoke and flame whilst dropping down the 1 in 5 hill into Otley. No lie-in this morning; I'll have to get the one off the old van and transfer it across. Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 1, 2013 9:52:37 GMT
I must admit there is wizadry in your excellent photos, how I wish the internet was around decades ago Sorry to hear about the woes with the new van. I know that road very well and not the sort of place you want to break down. Hope it's a straight forward swop. Good to know Mrs P keeps you working so everyone here can learn from you. Ever thought of becoming a teacher, Tommy can advise you on that. David Not fair..... I had to do it - MrsP gets very upset if I'm not working. Besides, you all got all those lovely pics of how easy it is to do. That said, "new" Scudo cooked its fan motor yesterday - much smoke and flame whilst dropping down the 1 in 5 hill into Otley. No lie-in this morning; I'll have to get the one off the old van and transfer it across. Chris.
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Post by kelsham on Jan 1, 2013 15:01:14 GMT
I hate to be negative. Negative earth that is.
Sorry couldn't resist, I was giving the matter some thought and recalling all the cars I have been involved with that have that suffered from alternator failure.
Sons TR7, two of my XJS jaguars, one rover 100 cabriolet,one rover 25, and last week my sons Rover 45 failed at night in Oswestry, guess who he called for help?
On the other side my Landcrab stopped charging one night a hundred miles from home, I dismantled it by the roadside while my wife held the torch. It was one brush worn down I packed it out with a piece of plastic and carried on.
I am surprised that the 22 amp dynamo is insufficient to provide good lighting?
My Morris always seems to have adequate lights.
Happy new year Kels.
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 2, 2013 5:07:32 GMT
Kels I agree. My experience with the alternators on the Mk111 1800s was not good. I seemed to replace the voltage regulator chip every couple of years but only once or twice over many years did I have to renew dynamo brushes. BUT if you do a lot of short journeys in the cold and dark with a dynamo I found you needed to give the battery a charge to keep it from failing. If you look at the specs you can see why. Dynamo output - in new condition 22 Amps Power used (approximate consumption) Coil 2 Amps Wiper 3.5 Amps Headlights 10 Amps Sidelights /panel instruments 2 Amps Heated Rear Window (HRW) 8 Amps Fan 3 Amps TOTAL 28.5 Amps (without HRW) 20.5 Amps (At idle the dynamo gave out less than 22 Amps). So you can see at night when it is wet even without the HRW there is very little left over to charge the battery even with a 100% sound dynamo and regulator. Driving in traffic with the engine at idle would result in a net discharge of the battery. Once the HRW is switched on you are into quite a significant net discharge if my figures are correct. Modern alternators should be much more reliable than the early ones. Regards David I hate to be negative. Negative earth that is. Sorry couldn't resist, I was giving the matter some thought and recalling all the cars I have been involved with that have that suffered from alternator failure. Sons TR7, two of my XJS jaguars, one rover 100 cabriolet,one rover 25, and last week my sons Rover 45 failed at night in Oswestry, guess who he called for help? On the other side my Landcrab stopped charging one night a hundred miles from home, I dismantled it by the roadside while my wife held the torch. It was one brush worn down I packed it out with a piece of plastic and carried on. I am surprised that the 22 amp dynamo is insufficient to provide good lighting? My Morris always seems to have adequate lights. Happy new year Kels.
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