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Post by tommydp on Nov 14, 2014 21:08:08 GMT
Hi all! I prepared the white one for winter today:-) Studded tyres, 88 degrees thermostat and fur seat covers fitted. So far, no sign of real Norwegian winter though. I've just fitted a nos carburettor to it, and it runs very well. It's on it fifth tank of 95 unleaded now. It still pulls very well, with no pinking. Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 15, 2014 1:54:19 GMT
Good news Tommy! Still waitng for winter here too. It should be 14C overnight by now but its still in the upper twenties. A shame as there are a number of jobs I need to do that I have left for the "cooler" days. I've sent you an email, if it doesn't arrive please PM me here. Regards David Hi all! I prepared the white one for winter today:-) Studded tyres, 88 degrees thermostat and fur seat covers fitted. So far, no sign of real Norwegian winter though. I've just fitted a nos carburettor to it, and it runs very well. It's on it fifth tank of 95 unleaded now. It still pulls very well, with no pinking. Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Nov 15, 2014 9:39:55 GMT
Thanks Dave!
I've replied to the mail this morning. Good work!
Tommy
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Post by tommydp on Dec 15, 2014 20:19:45 GMT
Hi all! It's been a while since the latest update. I finally got around to have a look at the clicking cv joints on the white one, and finished this evening. I had a new cv joint which I fitted to the left side, and a supposed good second hand one to the other side.
While at it, I checked all ball joints, bushes etc. I removed the hub from the shaft using a puller, It came off pretty easily. I cleaned the wheel bearings in diesel, and as they looked very fine I packed them with grease and reinstalled them. I fitted the hub to the drive shaft again, while on the bench. I first pressed the inner bearing on, using two old wheel bearing spacers, a large flat washer and an old hub nut. Tightening the nut slightly pressed the inner bearing all the way home. Then, the spacer came on (I marked which way it was originally installed)followed by the hub, outer bearing and finally the brake disc/ hub assembly.
I then tightened the hub nut to the specipied torque, using a flat washer behind the hub nut. Slacked it off again, fitted the cone washer and tightened it once againg. I could feel the assembly being pressed together nicely. Of course, I forgot to fit the brake disc shield, so had to take it off again, and do the procedure once again. At least, this way I found out it had been pressed together successfully. Had to use the puller to get the hub/ brake disc off again.
I've tested it now, in snow and ice:-) It really is transformed. No noises,vibration or anything and I'm sure the bearings have been crying for new grease. So, great success:-)
Sadly, I didn't take any photos. This messy work doesn't match well with a white Iphone:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by tommydp on Dec 28, 2014 20:56:09 GMT
The white one is out and about on various oocasions, including when buying the christmas tree and two pairs of cross country skis, as we don't have roof racks for the 600 and the new Countryman we've just got. We've had lots of snow recently, and it's been around - 15 degrees C. No problem for the crab, it starts right away, and yes, it's standing outside all the time. Today it was really put to test. The tractor, which I use to clear the snow from the road here, refused to start. The battery was not up for the job, as it had been very cold. I tried to jump start it with a battery only, but it didn't help. So, nothing else to do but try to jump start it with a car. Problem was, the tractor was in the middle of a field as I had been clearing the snow there yesterday, to make a reserve place to park when the weather gets warmer and the road up to the house gets all icy... So, tractor in the middle of the field and the field was again covered with at least 30 cm of snow... I fired up the crab and drove it straight onto the field. After reversing up, and going down the field a few times the 1800 had made some sort of path, which made it possible to drive it straight up to the tractor and hook up the jump leads. Amazing, it's almost unbelieveable it made it up the field.. I wish someone had filmed the event! At least I took some pics and a video. And yes, the tractor started and I was able to drive the tractor with the snow blower up the road. Regards, Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 29, 2014 0:39:43 GMT
The Wolseley is outside at the moment, with the last of our little snowfall on the roof. Nothing like what you've got!
I was talking to my friend Matt in Saskatchawan, Canada, last night and he said it was "a bit chilly" at -27c! Apparently the dogs don't care, running around like lunatics.
We do own amazing cars.
Chris.
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Post by tony on Dec 29, 2014 1:41:51 GMT
Thanks for sharing the amazing story. To me, it's really cold in your place.
Regards
Tony
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 29, 2014 4:43:45 GMT
It was 18C here early morning a few days ago and the locals were wearing scarves, fur lined anoraks and looking pretty miserable. I've forgotten what it's like to go outside when it's the same temperature as the freezer!
Well done Tommy and the crab.
David
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Post by tommydp on Feb 4, 2015 21:20:36 GMT
Hi all!
Not very active recently, I guess it's down to the fact I don't drive or work much on the cars during winter. It's been quite cold recently.
The blue one is just resting in the garage. When the weather gets warmer I'll install the reconditioned cylinder head. The white one is used now and then, but I try to avoid driving it when there's salt on the roads. It's still very reliable. Starts everytime and runs well.
Otherwise everything's fine up north!
Regards, Tommy.
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 5, 2015 1:35:14 GMT
I was just thinking yesterday that we hadn't heard from you for a while and wondered if you were hibernating . I heard from Ken in Perth that the suspension arm numbers you found and I thought may relate to left hand drive cars (to compensate for the road camber) are in fact found on some Australian cars, so wrong again! Regards David
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Post by tommydp on Aug 17, 2015 21:08:52 GMT
Hi all! The white one is still my everyday transport. We've also taken it for a journey more than 1000 kms a few weeks ago. It's been very reliable and runs great, well until today...
I've noticed a pinking kind of noise the last days. Not the typical ignition pinking. I noticed the timing was still fine, so started investigating further. For some reason the first thing I did was to check the compression. I was rather surprised to find number 1 and 2 at 190, 3 at 140 and 4 at 130... They used to be 190ish all of them, but I've not checked the compression for ages. I checked the valves, none were too tight. Wet test made no special change. I can only imagine this is down to a leaking head gasket between cylinders 3 and 4. I believe the noise came from that area, as far as I could tell.
I changed the head gasket once, when I did the valves. It's not a Payen. Very Olde stock Clough or something, aluminium coloured. The only one I had on the shelf then... Well, I'm taking the head off tomorrow, and hope to find a crack in the gasket. Have got a Payen set.
Any feedback welcome. I haven't noticed much loss of power or misfiring. The idle speed is a bit unstable, and there's slight black smoke when revving hard. Otherwise nothing strange.
Regards, Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 18, 2015 1:21:07 GMT
Hi Tommy
Checking the compression is really the starting point as the engine is really just 4 air pumps so you chose well!
As the gasket failure between cylinders 1-2 or 3-4 are the most common that seems to fit in with your readings and is often not associated with other head gasket failure syptoms such as oil in the water or the reverse.
Sometimes you can hear this as a high pitched sound under load. When the head is off it's worth checking for any distortion and using a Payen gasket. You will find some mention on B forums of using a piece of thin fuse wire between the cylinders to reinforce the gasket to overcome this weakness. I think I may have seen it on a Janspeed classic Mini video as well but may be wrong. I'll try and find some references but the internet is playing up here at present.
Good luck
David
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Post by indianajones on Aug 18, 2015 7:43:12 GMT
Let us know how you get on Tommy (pics if possible!)
Cheers,
Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Aug 18, 2015 21:55:01 GMT
Ok... had just written a looong, good update with lots of pics with comments and suddenly it disappeared! Damn! But, it was more or less like this. Short version, sorry: Head off, no visible crack in gasket. Gasket seems cheap/ bad though. Few reinforced areas.Rusty spots Rust build up in blind spot hole in gasket, between cylinders 3 and 4. Also tiny straight line between the cylinders in this area.Perhaps it leaked between the cylinders via this hole? Valves and seats fine. Cleaned up and fitted new oil seals while at it. No need to lap. Carbon build up due to oil. It already had uprated oil seals and oil is clearly seen in the inlet manifold inlet ports. I can only imagine this points to oil entering via breather, which is connected to the carb (like ater cars). Pool of oil in oil separator. Fitted later type of separator. Hope that improves things. It uses some oil, only blue smoke after loooong hils on the overrun. The old gasket was a true nightmare to clean off, It was stuck to the cylinder head. Everything cleane up and ready to fit tomorrow. With Payen gasket, I really hope it brings the compression on 3 and 4 back up. I really can't think of anything else causing it. Head off, gasket stuck to head. Not too bad a sight. Oil in number 3 after wet test. Some carbon build up. Head as removed. Gasket still stuck on. Cylinders 3 and 4. So, was there aleak across the gasket here? Hope so. Close up. Note the rust build up and corroded gasket. If your eyes are sharp, there's also a tiny straight line between the cylinders on gasket surface. Never anyhing else but Payen again!
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Post by tommydp on Aug 18, 2015 22:01:54 GMT
Pool of oil in oil separator Later type separator fitted.. Regards, Tommy
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