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Post by dave1800 on Aug 19, 2015 1:00:14 GMT
It certainly looks as though the problem is the gasket failure hence the rust build up which requires air. It may have also been presurising the crankcase through the push rod hole accounting for the oil in the breather which could then be sucked into the engine on long downhill runs.
Worth checking the head and block are flat and if you have any new head studs around possibly using them to maintain better torque in case the old ones have lost some of their elasticity.
On the odd occasion I have lost a post I have sometimes managed to recover it by opening a new tab (with the first still open) and duplicating the URL. It has (not always) come up with a message that I was working on a message and asks if I want to use it or discard it, or words to that effect. As I'm not the worlds' fastest typist - 1 finger - I am now in the habit of saving the text as I go (ie highlight cntl-c) if there are more than ten lines.
regards
David
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Post by tony on Aug 19, 2015 5:15:38 GMT
Very good pictures to show the details. I saw the picture 4 and picture 5. There are two signs to tell: one is some black colour between cylinder 3 and 4; the other is the intake valve of cylinder 4 seems not to close fully as of carbon built up. I agree with David saying, Worth checking the head and block are flat... I also would check all valves are fully closed or not with all valves installed by using some oil between each valve face round edge and cylinder head, and then use air pressured gun with a rag covering the intake port and exhaust port each time to blow some air in. It doesn't need more high pressured air to use. If you see bobbles coming out, the valve is NOT fully closed. If doubt, do the whole cylinder head repair. Regards Tony Ok... had just written a looong, good update with lots of pics with comments and suddenly it disappeared! Damn! But, it was more or less like this. Short version, sorry: Head off, no visible crack in gasket. Gasket seems cheap/ bad though. Few reinforced areas.Rusty spots Rust build up in blind spot hole in gasket, between cylinders 3 and 4. Also tiny straight line between the cylinders in this area.Perhaps it leaked between the cylinders via this hole? Valves and seats fine. Cleaned up and fitted new oil seals while at it. No need to lap. Carbon build up due to oil. It already had uprated oil seals and oil is clearly seen in the inlet manifold inlet ports. I can only imagine this points to oil entering via breather, which is connected to the carb (like ater cars). Pool of oil in oil separator. Fitted later type of separator. Hope that improves things. It uses some oil, only blue smoke after loooong hils on the overrun. The old gasket was a true nightmare to clean off, It was stuck to the cylinder head. Everything cleane up and ready to fit tomorrow. With Payen gasket, I really hope it brings the compression on 3 and 4 back up. I really can't think of anything else causing it.  Head off, gasket stuck to head. Not too bad a sight. Oil in number 3 after wet test. Some carbon build up.  Head as removed. Gasket still stuck on.  Cylinders 3 and 4. So, was there aleak across the gasket here? Hope so.  Close up. Note the rust build up and corroded gasket. If your eyes are sharp, there's also a tiny straight line between the cylinders on gasket surface.   Never anyhing else but Payen again!  |
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Post by tommydp on Aug 19, 2015 21:48:46 GMT
Ok, everything went back on smoothly. Compression after a test drive was 175-180 on all four cylinders. Happy with that! No pinking and no sign of smoke on the overrun, at least so far. Fingers crossed! Driving it 600 kms after work tomorrow, to look at this: www.finn.no/finn/car/used/object?finnkode=62823978Looking forward to that! It sounds promising. If I decide to buy it, I'll have to sell the white one I think. Price is 20 000 NOK (GBP 2000ish) and not negotiable. We'll see about that when I turn up in a crab after crossing the mountains... Typically, this also turned up for sale yesterday... 15 minutes drive from me. I'm quite tempted. 15000 NOK is quite cheap I guess. Needs some brake work and some welding to an outer sill. Been owned by enthusiast it seems. Original 3500 V8. Oh dear:-))) www.finn.no/finn/car/used/object?finnkode=63140166So, which one should it be... ? I want both, and to keep the white:-) And get the blue one back on the road once I get the engine back... A hard life:-) Tommy |
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Post by indianajones on Aug 19, 2015 22:20:50 GMT
Glad to hear that you've had some luck, fingers crossed for you1
P6, do it! lol
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 19, 2015 22:35:20 GMT
Ahaha! I wondered if you'd go for the green 'Crab. Looks very good for £1500. That P6 looks an absolute bargain, unless it's only shiny on top. The panels (including the sills) are all non-structural, so it's the shell ("base unit") which has all the strength - check carefully, because they can rot very, very badly. 3.5L V8 rear wheel drive in the snow could be an absolute hoot come winter......
Really pleased that the engine has worked out OK.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Aug 20, 2015 23:40:40 GMT
Hi all!
Just back from 600 kms in the white 1800, to have a look at the green Austin which is for sale. Well, I didn't buy it. Things always look better in pics:-) Main drawback was the paintwork. Dull and tiny stripes, cracks all over. Also far more scratches than seen in pics. Rust in boot floor, at the front of sills, where they meet the inner wing, below headlamps, on both front wing "gutters".
Mechanically better. Nice and firm steering and suspension. It had a major air leak at the brake servo valve, so needless to say idle wasn't to my satisfaction:-) Ran well at speed, but the big engine mounting was of course all split, so the engine bounced around and so did the car on the road, due to this.. Both CV joints made a hell of a noise on full lock. It was overfilled with oil, by far. Bearing rattle and oil lamp a few secs on start up, but had stood for two weeks. Also, no hoses etc had been changed. It all looked original.
Only one wheel cylinder had been changed, as it leaked.
Anyway, I would have managed the mechanics. No problem. However, the paint and rust made it un appealing to me. Not a bad project at all, but not what I had in mind.
Anyway, glad I went to find out how it was. Sat down with a coffee after leaving the green crab. Grabbed phone to find the ad for the Rover V8 in order to call the seller. Only to find in the ad it had just been sold. Well, well... In such cases I always try to comfort myself with the fact that it was meant to be this way. It's for the best. Something else, better will turn up in stead. We'll see.
All in all, I'm OK with it, and did I have a great trip across the mountains in the 1800!! Head gasket change seems a success. No pinking upphill and no oil smoke on the overrun as I could see. And holy cow, have I done some up and down hill driving on this trip. We're talking up to Dovre mountains, more or less the "roof of Norway", via Dombås and down to Åndalsnes which is at sea level. (In case you want to study a map and check altitudes). A lovely nature. Even I, being Norwegian, can't resist looking up the spectacular mountains. Another forum outing perhaps?
Driving home, crossing the deserted, wide open mountains in the dark, I was quite comfortable with the lack of a deal on the green car. The white one is really a good car, so I couldn't have parted with it for another, unknown car. It flies up the mountains in 90 kmh and feels safe and reliable all the time. I also think of all I've done to it mechanically. It's a great runner, if not a beautiful sight. Think about it. Drive a 45 yrs old car 600 kms straight after work, and back again at night without it missing a beat. It's satisfying:-)
Pics tomorrow. Need to sleep now, the kids need their teacher in the morning:-)
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 21, 2015 0:26:16 GMT
Sorry to hear that the car wasn't as good as it appeared in the photos and quite a bargain compared to current UK asking prices. I had even thought about flying to Norway as it looke so good and was the same year and colour as my third crab - fond memories.
The drive across the mountains must have been spectacular to make up for the disappointment though and it was a good test of your Payen gasket!
Regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Aug 26, 2015 17:49:43 GMT
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Post by tommydp on Aug 26, 2015 17:56:34 GMT
And some pics and from the trip we had earlier this summer.   I used to own this Maxi!  Another 1800 was there, too. Well used.. An early car, at least being Norwegian. Actually a 1965. |
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Post by tommydp on Aug 26, 2015 18:02:22 GMT
Registered in Norway on April 30th 1965!
GENERELT
Registreringsnummer
21-08-78
Merke og modell
AUSTIN A 1800
Kjøretøygruppe
Personbil
Registreringsår
1965
Antall seter
5
Farge
Ikke oppgitt
Drivstoff
Bensin
Understellsnummer
AHS10L6269
Registrert første gang i Norge
30.04.1965
Registrert første gang på eier
13.09.2005
Registrert i distrikt
Gol
Sist EU-godkjent
13.05.2015
Neste frist for godkjent EU-kontroll
31.08.2017
MÅL OG VEKT
Lengde
418 cm
Bredde
170 cm
Egenvekt
1190 kg
Egenvekt med fører
1265 kg
Tillatt totalvekt
1605 kg
Maks nyttelast
340 kg
Maksvekt tilhenger m/brems
0 kg
Maksvekt tilhenger u/brems
0 kg
Maksvekt på tilhengerkobling
0 kg
Maks vogntogvekt
0 kg
Maks taklast
0 kg
Maks aksellast foran
0 kg
Maks aksellast bak
0 kg
MOTOR/KRAFTOVERFØRING
Slagvolum
1798 cm3
Motorytelse/effekt
0 KW (0 HK)
Antall aksler
2
Antall aksler med drift
1
DEKK/FELG
Dekk foran (standard)
175 X 13
Dekk bak (standard)
175 X 13
Hastighetsindeks
Ikke oppgitt
Lastindeks foran
Lastindeks bak
Innpress foran
0 mm
Innpress bak
0 mm
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 26, 2015 20:10:01 GMT
Spectacular scenery to drive through, Tommy. Glad to hear the engine is behaving again.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 27, 2015 3:05:43 GMT
Are you supposed to re-torque with a Payen gasket? There appears to be ambiguous advice on the net. Were there any instruction with the gasket? Excellent photos by the way, thanks. Regards David Re torqued the head, but was still fine. Some inlet valves was a bit tight, so adjusted all valves again. |
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Post by tommydp on Oct 14, 2015 20:55:09 GMT
I have just changed the petrol tank on the white one. The old tank had some serious internal rust, so I've had to change fuel filters quite frequently. I had a tank which looked rather nice inside, and so far the fuel filter is still clean. The tank doesn't leak either:-) While at it, as the tow bar/ bumper had to be removed, I repainted the rear end and the tow bar. Quite pleased with the result, at least from a distance. The boot floor above the tank was surprisingly nice. Previous owner has treated it with used oil every year, it seems to have worked well. It's surprisingly rust free. I removed the rust there was and painted it. The tow bar is now back on and it's still used daily. I've now installed electronic ignition, cheap Accuspark. It works very well so far and the timing mark is spot on steady. I keep a spare distributor with points in the boot, marked for fitting should I need to.. I installed it to improved the slight pinking I noticed when pulling a trailer up hill. I noticed the timing marks were not stable and cylinder 4 was firing around 15 degrees btc while number 1 was around 10.. This is the DD overhauled distributor. I still don't think it's fine. I can move the shaft sideways like on well worn distributors, and the points gap is different on the lobes. Loose on two, tight on two. I'm not sending it back again, as it's a fortune in postage.. Anyway, the advance seems right now, and when I fitted the electronic set, the timing marks are rock steady. There's still a few degrees difference between cylinder 1 and 4, but I'm not too concerned. I've set number one to 10 degrees, which makes number four fire at 12. It doesn't pink at all. I've really pushed it, flooring in fourth up a steep hill etc, so seems fine. Just out of curiousity I fitted a 45 d distributor which I plan to use on the blue one when I get the new engine in. It has points and fired at the exact same timing on both cylinder 1 and 4. Mark was steady too. So a wise idea to put that on the rebuilt engine I think.. Tommy      |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 14, 2015 23:22:01 GMT
Good stuff, Tommy. Did you clean up the left hand bit by the side of the tank as well?
Impressed that it's not completely plastered with underseal (Like my two). Must be nice not worrying about salt!
45D dizzy will be 10 years younger, so less likely to be as worn as an original 25D.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 15, 2015 0:58:40 GMT
Tommy: Am I correct in may interpretation that you are still using the DD distributor but with the Accuspark? If so and there is side movement in the shaft as though the bearing is worn then it could (in theory) vibrate /resonate at certain rpm. This would potentially alter the gap between the magnet and hall sensor and hence the accuracy of the timing. I understand your reluctance to return the unit because of the postage costs but it may be worth contacting DD with your findings. A combination of shaft movement and possibly a badly ground cam on the distributor indicates that something has gone seriously wrong. DD's reputation appears to be excellent so I imagine he would wish to know about this.
Regards
David
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