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Post by indianajones on Dec 19, 2011 20:29:07 GMT
Just off the phone from the mechanic.
Need two new C.V's, two upper ball joints.
He's found a 18/85 auto that's been parked up, good for spares. 250 pounds/500 NZD rego on hold. Would be game, but sadly lack the space.
Will give the Wolseley club a call and the LOCI an e-mail.
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Dec 19, 2011 23:07:41 GMT
Great:-) Always tempting with another crab too:-)
It could be the balljoints only need adjustment, if they are not to badly worn. There are shims between the joint and suspension arm, and by removing some of these you can overcome play/ wear. There are instructions in the manuals about assembly of these.
Good luck:-)
Regards, Tommy:-)
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Post by indianajones on Dec 20, 2011 3:19:37 GMT
Cheers Tommy,
He sounds fairly sure it's the CVs and I wouldn't be surprised if that's the case. I dare say they havn't had much TLC in a few years and I have heard some ticking noises I'm sure in the past.
Shouldn't be too hard to get some locally, will give a WC member a buzz tonight, he might be able to help.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Dec 20, 2011 9:24:54 GMT
Well the WC lead was a no go, he's in the same position as me actually lol, rebuilding a '69 manual crab and will be looking for CVs himself down the line. Nice chap, had a nice wee chat about our crabs. His is a change over to Mk. II like mine it seems. Mk II engine, and certain Mk. II interior fittings, but Mk. I body, 14" wheels etc.
He gave me a few other local leads to chase, will try and follow them up in the next couple of days.
Also my new K&N filter arrived, cheers Chris for the tip on the right size/model.
-Andrew
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Post by indianajones on Jan 25, 2012 4:29:53 GMT
I thought I had updated this? seems not! Well I have got my new nice CV's and ball joints since my last post, Tony of the LOCI was a great help. Also got new rear shoes, might as well make the most of the shipping. If you're not a member of the club, do join up, well worth it _b Mechanic says he will be back to his shop (where my car is currently living) this Tuesday coming, so hopefully he'll slap on my new parts and rebuild the steering rack by Friday. Also I have just placed my order for a carb rebuild kit, with a new needle, spring and float. Maybe over kill but I figured if I'm gonna spend the money a few extra pounds isn't gonna hurt and it's a piece of mind thing. As per the other thread a service will be given. So hopefully come the end of next month I'll have a much better running and handling crab! Will update and no doubt harrass you lads more for info and advice  -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 30, 2012 23:29:03 GMT
Have given the CV's to the mechanic.....but we may have a problem, he reckons they look like Mk. I CV's....and I have a Mk. II (sort of) car.....bugger.......looks like I'm in for another costly shipping exercise!
-Andrew
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Post by tommydp on Jan 30, 2012 23:45:07 GMT
Have given the CV's to the mechanic.....but we may have a problem, he reckons they look like Mk. I CV's....and I have a Mk. II (sort of) car.....bugger.......looks like I'm in for another costly shipping exercise! -Andrew That's strange, I thought they were all identical.. Can anyone confirm this? I'll have a look in the parts catalogue tomorrow if not. regards, Tommy:-) |
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Post by indianajones on Jan 30, 2012 23:47:17 GMT
I have read somewhere they were different but one could be used on the other? I never gave it any thought to be honest when I asked Tony, I just said CV joint and thought if they were different he would of asked me to be sure? My mechanic seems to think they're different lengths. He's yet to remove my old ones, hopefully he will today or tomorrow sometime so we can find out. Edit: Looking back at my e-mails with Tony, he mentions they're 'Hardy Spicer' CVs, would this make any difference? www.hardyspicer.com.au/PDF_Files/Driveline/FWD-CV_Cat_Dec2008.pdfOn page 41 of that pdf it says 65 onwards, so hopefully it should be fine. -Andrew |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 31, 2012 1:13:34 GMT
Sorry, this is a straight lift from the post I put up in the other place. It's late and I'm very tired.....
"Indy,
There are only two drive shafts. The automatic ones, which have the universal joints inboard and a CV joint outboard is one type. The other type will accept either the rubber spiders or the nylon cross pieces at the inboard end, with a CV joint at the outboard end. The CV joints are interchangable between the different types. The only thing to be aware of is that there were two different sizes of ball bearing used at different points in production and service. This appears to be completely random and no serial numbers are involved.
As mentioned before, any decent transmission stockist will be able to supply appropriately sized ball bearings to fit the CVs, just make sure that you pick up a suitable amouint of suitable grease for the re-packing exercise.
If your mechanic is an "old-school" bod, he should know this stuff.
P45."
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Jan 31, 2012 1:42:44 GMT
Just read it on the other place mate, all good and thanks again
You get some kip, while I keep working here! (Currently 2:42pm)
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 31, 2012 4:41:03 GMT
As far as I recall Hardy-Spicer were the OEM suppliers of CV joints. For manual transmission cars there were 2 drive shafts, the later one (Mk11 on?) had a sliding joint protected by rubber bellows. These are not interchangeable!
regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Jan 31, 2012 5:38:37 GMT
David, I have the sliding drive shaft, but that shouldn't affect the CVs themselves? Also you're right about the Hardly Spicer being the OEM supplier, I just found that out reading my manual when I got home  -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Feb 3, 2012 4:16:45 GMT
YES! got my crab back! the world is a happier place. Still need to get a wheel alignment and to break in the new ball joints, but otherwise she's feeling a lot better, no shaking/shuddering in the steering wheel when going around corners. Having a pint of Old Speckled Hen to celebrate now..........back to business, do I do the carb work myself or entrust my mechanic? Could I cock it up that badly? Also I have confirm I have aussie mounts on my crab. -Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 3, 2012 9:55:06 GMT
Hi Andrew Rebuilding a SU carb was one of the first jobs I ever did on a car. A Morris Minor, 803cc. I would be tempted to do it if you feel confident. It is straight forward, but you must first thoroughly clean the outside of the carb and then dismantle it to avoid grit getting inside. It is crucial to ensure that the piston and chamber are only cleaned with a soft cloth and carb cleaner or white spirit and nothing abrasive at all. You must take care fitting the needle correctly and make sure it doesn't get bent. Read carefully the section on centering the needle in the jet so that the piston rides up and down smoothly. You can afford to spend more time than your mechanic on cleaning and it will be rewarding seeing exactly how it works. Good luck David YES! now..........back to business, do I do the carb work myself or entrust my mechanic? Could I cock it up that badly? -Andrew |
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Post by indianajones on Feb 15, 2012 9:33:45 GMT
Well the on-going saga (well not that bad really) of the carb rebuild goes.
Pretty much I only have myself to blame for not checking the current set-up. I had no idea there was different types of jets. But no use in stressing it, I got the parts I need to make it stock again so I'm happy.
What I'm not so happy about is some of the lack luster help here in NZ.
One place I popped into didn't seem at all interested even though he called himself an SU specialist and didn't have any bloody parts...
The other I rang up to discuss the matter, they said yep can get a needle guide for sure, as for the jet connection bring in the carb and they'll sort it out. Sweet as, hope on the bike and ride 20km away, get there and the guy goes "oh.....", he said they did jets that have linkages, but not for sale on their own, I would have to buy the entire kit for $160 NZD.....So of course that wasn't an option, I asked for the cost of the needle guide he said that would be $8 NZD (it's around $4 NZD from SU), told him not the bother as I could get it cheaper from SU and seeing as I'm paying for the shipping regardless......
So a bit irate I rode 40km on my lunch break for an absolute waste of time......
On the flip side SU/Burlen have been great to deal with so far and have placed my order for the parts I need. They've been helpful in telling me what I need to convert it etc. I won't hesitate in recommending them to anyone.
-Andrew
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