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Post by cookie on Oct 22, 2021 15:38:17 GMT
flic.kr/p/2mDmvx4 Sorry if this hasn’t worked again I can’t see anything about bb code on flickr These are the items I was referring to. Do I need a special tool to separate them or is it just bash away (within reason obviously!) Cheers Cookie
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 22, 2021 17:19:27 GMT
 Untitled by Graham Cook, on Flickr OK, suspension ball joints and the track rod end. They're a taper fit, so you need a splitter tool. You can get screw operated ones like THIS, which are quite gentle and may not destroy the dust boot. It may not split the joint, either. Or you can use the FORK TYPE, which is hammer operated. It will split the joint, but will also destroy the dust cover. Most motor factors now keep generic ones in stock, as they are now an MoT fail, so don't worry too much about wrecking them. Don't try and bash them out. Damaging the thread would be unfortunate. C. |
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Post by cookie on Oct 22, 2021 18:14:08 GMT
Thank you Chris. I know they’re basic questions. They’re the ones I tried so ineptly to explain earlier! I had a feeling there was a special tool required because no matter what I tried I just couldn’t budge them.
There’s a machine mart near me and there’s not many cheaper on the internet so I’ll head there tomorrow.
Thanks again
Cookie
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 22, 2021 21:10:58 GMT
Hi Cookie and welcome You may have already worked this out but the mobile device flickr app does not give you BBC code options, so the only way to post photos that I have found is with a PC not a phone. You must also be signed in to flickr on the PC to see the BBC tab. The other thing that has caught me a little while ago after an update on my android phone. If the HEIF mode is set to ON in the camera setting any photos taken in this mode will not be able to be downloaded from your gallery to flickr. I suspect you may be about to find out how hard it can be to break the taper on a landcrab top/bottom ball joint! Those that haven't been apart for a while can be a BEEP BEEP BEEP ! Tips that have helped me include 1 Swearing at it! 2 Threatening to scrap the car! 3 Walking away for a day! 3 Leaving the taper breaker attached and as tight as you can get it for a couple of hours then hitting the top of the hub with a sledge hammer. 4 Careful heat with a blowlamp then a nice tight taper breaker, then hit the hub with a big hammer! Obviousy care must be taken with all of the above especially being annoyed and swearing at it loudly! Jokes aside they can be a pig to get apart and the first three options do not work but can make you feel better!
As Chris said beware once you get the hammer out you will probably do damage and be replacing parts!
Nick |
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 22, 2021 23:51:55 GMT
Hi Cookie I appreciate you are having to learn a lot about the crab suspension in a short time but there is one component that I need to being to your attention - the tie bars and their bushes. They are a potential source of a catastrophic failure with an unthinkable outcome. Have a read in the technical section - you must be logged in the see it. Tie Rod warningDavid |
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Post by cookie on Oct 28, 2021 15:33:01 GMT
Hi all and thanks for the replies this far.
I’m pleased to say I’ve managed to undo all the ball joints relatively hassle free! Even the 4 side bolts came out easily from the suspension housing.
However…. As expected, the bottom large bolt will not budge😱
I’ve sprayed penetrating fluid, I’ve hit it, I’ve wiggled it and I’ve cried over it. I’ve even had a neighbour who owns a mobile tyre repair van come and use his power tools on it but to no avail! This has now resulted in the obligatory rounding off so I’ve purchased the kit for rounded off bolts.
What are my options? Heat and keep trying?
Spent a good 4-5 hours on it no exaggeration!
Cheers Cookie
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 28, 2021 17:26:17 GMT
I suspect that we've all fought that bottom bolt. I've only ever got it free by getting the nut from the other side and then sliding the whole housing off. Have a look HERE for a very similar experience. Looks like I took a slitting disc to the actual bolt and lopped the end off before extreme brute force and heat when the access was better. I take that the ball joints surrendered?  Chris. |
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Post by cookie on Oct 28, 2021 18:36:11 GMT
They did, With the most satisfying ‘pop’. Amazing what having the right tool does for your sanity.
The bottom bolt will be even more satisfying hopefully!
Cookie
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Post by cookie on Oct 29, 2021 20:43:21 GMT
Well I’m thoroughly peed off. Still no joy with that bottom bolt. It’s very close to coming but I have a feeling I’ve mushroomed the end tapping it through from behind. I’ll take an angle grinder to it when I get chance. Are they easily replaceable?!
I do have another question though. You’ll have to excuse my terminology and descriptions here but when I was under the car bashing away I noticed the drive shaft (think it’s that) had come away. Below the engine. I slid it back on and it appears fine but is that normal? When I say drive shaft I mean what the hub is connected to, there is play in it back and forth but it surprised me how easy it came away.
Cheers
Cookie
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Post by 1800heap on Oct 29, 2021 23:21:36 GMT
Hi Cookie Don't loose hope you are attacking I would say the most difficult problem with the front suspension. I am sorry that I have not got to you in time to give you a couple of tips that may have helped you keep you sanity! Below is a picture of my car and I have to do the same as you and remove the front suspension. I have removed the nut on the bottom bolt and attempted to get the bolt to move. Absolutely no joy it has been there too long! At this point I have given up trying to move it as from bitter experience I know it is a wast of time to try to get it out. It has welded itself to the aluminium via corrosion. Two options for the bolt at this point. The first is leave it as is attached to the housing as the aluminium section can still be removed from the car like this. So remove the housing fix the displacer and put it back, leaving the bolt corroded to the housing. Not an option for you if you have damaged the bolt. Also there is a danger that the bolt is rusted and weak! No problem though still fixable with the second option. As I said in the last post be prepared to replace stuff that you take a hammer to. Once the housing is removed you can carefully drill out the bolt and fit a new one. OK you are now wondering how to get the thing off. Don't worry I have been there!  At this point I am wanting to get the aluminium housing to move. I have not yet removed the housing bolts as the photo is to show you where to put the wedge but you will need to. You could also remove the top bump stop so the wooden wedge is more effective. The bump stop bolts can be agro and snap off so perhaps leave that unless you have to. If you have mushroomed the bottom bolt the grinder will have to come out to get rid of the mushroomed section.  I am assuming the car is on axle stands at this point for safety. You will need to backtrack a little and reconnect the ball joints but this will depend on how stuck the housing is and how much leverage you need to get it to move.
Put a jack under the wheel flange (where the wheel bolts to) and put some upward pressure on it so that the wooden wedge is trapped stopping the radius arm lifting. This will put some leverage on the aluminium housing and the bottom bolt. Take care with this do not lift the car off the axle stands! If it lets go you will wear it! Danger Danger Whoop Whoop risk of serious injury if you are not very careful !!!!You can also put upward pressure on just the radius arm only with a lump of wood and a jack and see if it will move. Try this first as you have already popped the ball joints. You don't have as much leverage like this though and again take care to not lift the car off the stands. The idea is to rock the aluminium housing up and down and gradually pull / lever it off. I also assume that you have disconnected the tie bar. Another thing that can give you agro! If you need to get the tie bar to lower radius arm bolt out! Further leverage can be obtained by putting the road wheel back on with the upper radius arm wedged and lowing the car onto the wheel. This should only be done with the 2 big housing studs and nuts still in place on the housing. So loose but still in place! This will stop the housing completely coming off and the car dropping to the ground unexpectedly when the bottom bolt lets go!! Again more Danger !! You are at risk of breaking something or YOU like this so be sensible. Remember you are trying to rock the housing up and down so put pressure on then take it off with the road wheel until it moves. My car does not have a damaged displacer so I may resort to putting some pressure in the system and using the displacer to help push the housing off. It will depend on how obstinate the bolt wants to be! Good luck and be careful mate! Nick |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 30, 2021 16:03:12 GMT
Just to add, the hub retains the drive shaft in the gearbox, so don't worry if it's floated out - it'll slide back in easily. The evil spawn of satan bolt is 5" x ½" UNF, at least 8.8 Grade. WESTFIELD FASTENERS stock them. I'd get some new Nylock nuts at the same time. Chris. |
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Post by cookie on Oct 30, 2021 16:12:37 GMT
SUCCESS! I said SUCCESSSSS! Oh my life what a struggle. But it’s out, managed to get the displacer out and it does look like the hose has worn near to where it joins the displacer. I removed the torpedo housing and as I did the attached piece of metal came out of the void…What is it?! I’m going to need to replace all the dust boots of the ball joints and also grab a couple of stops off you Chris (seen them on eBay) Can anyone recommend the necessary size please? But massive thank you to you all for your replies so far…. I can assure you there’ll be more questions but I may start a new thread as I don’t like the title of this one😂 Cheers Cookie www.flickr.com/photos/194209716@N04/shares/a3t7TbSorry Chris I only use my mobile to upload photos and it doesn’t give me the option of the bb code |
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 30, 2021 17:51:24 GMT
 Untitled by Graham Cook, on Flickr Yup, that can be re-hosed or p/ex-ed. Was there a plastic divider fitted between the displacers?  Untitled by Graham Cook, on Flickr Never seen it before in my life! No idea what it is. If you would like to make this the restoration/maintenance thread, let me know what title you'd like and I'll move it for you. PM me with rubber requirements. Should save you a few bob.  Chris. |
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Post by cookie on Oct 30, 2021 18:14:10 GMT
PM sent!
Yes if you don’t mind, the reg of the car is XCA 878K so as others have done I’ll have that as the title please!
Cheers
Cookie
Edit: There didn’t appear to be anything between the displacers. Except a broken rubber hose that someone had clearly used in the past to stop the chaffing of the braided hoses
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Post by andrewa on Oct 31, 2021 6:39:22 GMT
Well done matey - congratulations!
And at the risk of sounding like a broken record, whilst you're waiting for the bits it's well worth - as suggested by Dave - to have a good examination of the tie rods.
Cheers
Andrew
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