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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 31, 2021 11:23:58 GMT
Dust Boots.Ball joint - 37mm across the groove. Track rod end - 31mm across the groove. Divider.Displacer hose divider. by Penguin 45, on Flickr Displacer hose divider. by Penguin 45, on Flickr 2mm hard plastic. Interesting how the displacer hoses have dug into the material. Still, it's lasted 50 years, but illustrates the forces involved. I've made a template for Cookie, so will send it down. Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Oct 31, 2021 14:21:39 GMT
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Post by cookie on Nov 2, 2021 13:34:46 GMT
Hi all, pleased to say all the parts came off ok, newly refurbished displacer obtained, parts delivered from penguin, ball joints all newly greased with new dust covers and a nice bit of stone chip to make it look nice and neat…
Kids and work mean it can’t go on until tomorrow but I have one more question!….
Obviously it takes a lot to separate the ball joints, so when reconnecting them, is it a case of just really tightening them until they fit firmly back in place (the taper) or is there some other method I should be aware of?
Kind regards
Cookie
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 2, 2021 18:29:14 GMT
Glad the stuff got there safely.
The ball joints can be awkward if you haven't got a windy gun or impact driver, as the pin may not pull home when doing it by hand. The bottom ball joint and track rod end can be pushed home with a jack, but bear in mind Nick's safety comments above. The top ball joint can only be done by hand, so chocking the top arm in the suspension housing then lifting the entire hub assembly is the way to do it.
35ft/lb for the TRE nut, 30 - 35ft/lb for the upper ball joint nut and 45ft/lb for the lower one.
Chris.
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Post by cookie on Nov 2, 2021 20:40:36 GMT
Thank you again everyone and Chris for the parts and prompt delivery.
Fingers crossed this time tomorrow I would have actually driven it!
I’ll keep you posted thank you
Cookie
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Post by cookie on Nov 4, 2021 21:20:08 GMT
Well good news (ish)!
Had an almighty struggle getting the suspensions housing back on but after a lot of bashing and wrangling managed to do so. Then after top and bottom ball joints pressing in lovely I had a game getting the tie rod ball joint in. Used wood blocks a Jack and a hammer and it eventually gave in, just after the Jack had slipped and the wooden block in the suspension housing popped one of my new rubber mounts off😩.
Topped the suspension up and and it stayed up! No leaks and no swearing by me.
Finally took her on a test drive only to find there was a problem with the clutch. After a few embarrassing stalls realised I had to keep on pumping it in order to change gear. One of the embarrassing stalls was in front of a neighbour who is a classic mini owner/enthusiast. He came over pleased as punch I’d sorted the suspension and had a look at the clutch for me, said it probably needed bleeding so helped with that. Despite it feeling firmer at first the same problem happened again. He suggested the inner seals may have gone on either the master or slave so I’m going to order a set for both and fingers crossed!
I’m happy though🤷♂️
Cookie
P.s once the engine was up to temp and before I drove it around this noise was happening….
Any ideas?! It seemed to stop once it had been driven.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 5, 2021 4:39:52 GMT
As far as the clutch is concerned it is a good idea to fit new seals to both the master and slave cylinders and also check the brake master cylinder by applying strong pressure with the engine off (no servo action) to ensure the pedal stays hard. Personally I think it is worth replacing all the rubber brake hoses and cylinder seals as it doesn't cost too much and should give you peace of mind for a few years.
Very difficult to identify the source of the noise from the short video. I assume you have changed the oil and filter? If it returns try and locate it using a long screwdriver or similar as a stethoscope - it does sound more like something external to the engine.
Maybe someone with better ears can point you in the right direction!
David
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Post by andrewa on Nov 5, 2021 5:03:53 GMT
Fan blades catching on the surround?
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 5, 2021 9:30:20 GMT
Fan blades catching on the surround? x2. Check all screws are present front and back holding the two halves of the surround together and in line. Great progress so far though - well done. Chris.
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Post by cookie on Nov 6, 2021 22:20:14 GMT
Hi all, I’m not going to be able to get to the car for a few days but I’ll check the fan housing when I do. It definitely sounded like it was coming from that area that’s why I focused the camera over there so fingers crossed.
I’m just about to order my cylinder repair kits but I’ve hit a little snag… they seem to come in 3 bore sizes.
I’ve checked my manual and it says nothing about the bore size on either the master or slave.
Does anyone know what they are for both?.
Hope you’re all well
Cookie
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 6, 2021 23:41:44 GMT
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Post by andrewa on Nov 17, 2021 16:55:07 GMT
All gone quiet! What's occurring ?!
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Post by cookie on Nov 18, 2021 0:01:49 GMT
Ha! It has a little. Good news is I’ve managed to get the new seals on the master and slave and the clutch is now all good touch wood. Took it out for a lovely drive with lots of admiring glances and waves(felt like royalty!)
Decided to have a drive out to a farish away petrol station that does E5 fuel and began filling her up, got to about 16/17 pounds worth when I began to hear a dreaded splashing sound… looked down and petrol was leaking all over the forecourt. It was actually dripping (gushing) through the rear left bumper panel/sill through an area of rot that looks like it has been caked with filler! I cleaned up, sheepishly paid and drove it back.
On returning there was absolutely no leak, most of the fuel had dried up around the rot hole and tank was showing over a quarter full. It’s been parked up for 3 days now and still no leak. I’ve been at work so haven’t had chance to properly investigate but I have a funny feeling it’s to do with the filler neck. I looked at it from inside the boot and couldn’t see any damage but there was a machined hole in the side of it, i have a feeling it’s meant to be there to let the tank breathe but whether I have pushed the fuel nozzle onto it filling up I don’t know.
I’m on leave as of now for a few days so I’ll have a proper look.
Managed to get the radio working.
Confirmed there is power going to my rear heated screen but it is not de-misting as it should. If you look closely at the wires/filament going across the screen they are patchy and coloured differently which makes me think they’ve given up the ghost.
I also asked Penguin a basic question privately about my dash lights….. I had none! Driving at night was pitch black inside and he told me about the ‘secret’ switch under the dash. I happily found this switch, flicked it and expected the whole thing to light up like a Christmas tree but nothing…. No Speedo lights no nothing. So that’s going to be on my to do list these next few days too. I’m hoping it’s something simple.
I went to the classic cars show last Friday and it was great, even managed to bump into Paddy, apparently a well known Irishman who has a plethora of 1800’s. Turned out he used to own mine! He told me a lot about her history that I would never have known. Fascinating.
Anyway! Hope you’re all well, I’ll keep you all updated.
Cheers Cookie
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Post by andrewa on Nov 18, 2021 11:51:18 GMT
On the interior lights they are dismal even when they're working ! I went with LED's on mine which improved things quite a bit. On the fuel front - it's not terribly professional but perhaps enlist a mate to get in the boot whilst you pour some more petrol in the filler and see where it's coming out? Or perhaps quick call to previous owner if on good terms? Cheers for now Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 18, 2021 18:30:20 GMT
Something very wrong with the tank, Cookie. There should only be two holes; one for the level sender on the top and one down the filler neck, which also contains the breather tube. There's a pin hole in the rubber sealing gasket on the fuel cap to let air in and out.
Dash lights are going to be a live feed issue, as they are a "daisy chain" wiring set up. The earth side is shared with the instruments, so if they're working, that will be fine. Or you've got no lamps!
Well done with the hydraulics. The clutch slave can be a bit of s@d to get working properly.
C.
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