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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 13, 2015 13:20:49 GMT
Now you've redesigned the crb perhaps you can use your ingenuity to design something to replace it? David Maybe; see what you think.  Old bracket, cardboard template and a metal blank. The template makes the bracket ¾" wider, so pushing the exhaust over to the left.  Blank drilled. Note slots in what will be the turned edge. This will allow for about ½" lateral adjustment on the "U" clamp.  All bent up and a lick of etch primer. It's now painted black and I'm waiting for the paint to dry. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 13, 2015 18:30:57 GMT
Well, that all dropped back together nicely. Car now out of garage. Not driven far due to time required setting up of engine (Timing.....) and there being a deficit in the head light department to the tune of one. So, just a few forward and backs along the roadside. Clutch appears to be light (probably a function of the new diaphragm) and silent, which suggests that the release bearing ius working.
I shall take her out for a run tomorrow and see how it goes.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Dec 13, 2015 19:21:56 GMT
That's excellent news mate!
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 14, 2015 0:25:04 GMT
It looks good; I like the idea of the slots to allow for adjustment. I had wondered also about modifying the manifold and exhaust pipe to incorporate flanges to bolt together. However, looking at the websites for the classic mini that uses a similar pain to fit arrangement, I can't find anything like that so guess it's impractical. Did you mention you need to adjust the "timing" - aaaagh  David |
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 15, 2015 18:11:06 GMT
I've driven about 80 miles over the last couple of days and everything appears to be fine. The clutch is quite light (no doubt that's a function of the new diaphragm), but mores to the point the shift is precise and no strange noises, so the bearing is presumably doing its job. We'll have to see how it lasts. It doesn't appear to be leaking oil and there is plenty of power with the new head gasket in place. Timing seems good. Stomped up East Chevin this afternoon (About 1:8 for a mile) without any pinking, so I'll leave it alone.
All good.
Chris.
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Post by tommydp on Dec 15, 2015 18:50:29 GMT
Great news!
Tommy
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Post by indianajones on Dec 15, 2015 19:14:33 GMT
Smashing stuff, mate
-Andrew
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Post by Nick RS on Dec 15, 2015 19:21:03 GMT
East Chevin is a good test, know it well. You must be pleased with the way it's running after all that work.
As an aside, the last time I went up there I was taken to the Caring for Life barn at Crag House Farm for a coffee. It's worth a look if you've never been, and go road testing there again.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 16, 2015 0:04:32 GMT
Good news Chris, well done! As far as the clutch adjustment is concerned did you manage to set it so that the bearing isn't in permanent contact with the cover plate and still get the clutch to engage a reasonable height from the floor?
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 16, 2015 0:09:10 GMT
Yes, it was all set up with the dummy cylinder in place to give a bit of clearance before I put the engine back in. As far as I can tell, it hasn't affected the pedal travel at all. There's quite good "feel" on the pedal and no noises, so I'm quite hopeful.
C.
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 16, 2015 8:34:50 GMT
As your pedal engagement is normal, I think it may be a useful mod for those with carbon crbs to consider. If all goes well as I'm sure we all hope then maybe you would like to publish the dimensions of the adjuster mechanism? Can you think of any drawbacks?
David
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Post by indianajones on Dec 16, 2015 9:01:10 GMT
If you do wish to produce a drawing, please don't hesitate to flick me a message and I can knock something up.
-Andrew
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 16, 2015 18:58:23 GMT
OK, I'll sketch up the bracket over the holiday.
One further thing I've noticed is that the revs now barely drop when the clutch is depressed.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 29, 2015 21:04:11 GMT
Car driving nicely. Managed to drop the idle to a more sensible level. Revs still don't drop when you put your foot on the clutch.  Anyway, we haven't had any revolting rust removal recently, so for your entertainment I give you: The Drivers-side Front Floor.  Love it. I love it, really.  There's enough cut away in the second pic to have an idea of what needs to be done. The crowsfoot underneath is gone at the outboard end. That'll need cutting back to make a sensible shape and there's rather more inner floor to be cut away before that can be welded up. Inside of sill looks good, thankfully. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 30, 2015 0:30:32 GMT
Oh no! Here we go again This seems to be a favourite area for rust. Do you think there may be a water leak from around the screen or wiper drive soaking that revolting underlay / sound deadening material under the carpet or just the latter holding a moist layer next to the floor from shoes on wet days? Or is the rust coming from the underneath? Any thoughts as to how to prevent this? regards David |
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