67 Wolseley MkI 18/85

Nice modification! Perhaps a good idea with the original thrust bearing too? I'm pretty sure the hydraulics could prevent it all going fully back after depressing the clutch, possibly leading to extra wear on the bearing surface. At least my white one seems to have less stroke on the pedal sometimes, so it actuates very close to the floor. If I pump the pedal and let it return fast, engine not running, it will become firmer againg and actuates a lot further from the floor. Seems to me the clutch fluid always gets black these days, even with new rubbers. Perhaps I'm uing the wrong brake fluid? Any ideas?

Good tip about checking the spigot bush. I once found one which was absolutely loose.

Should there be grease or oil on the clutch shaft end before it is assembled into the bush?

Tommy

When I fitted the spigot bearing in the first place (There wasn't one), I thought "dynamo!" and let the new one soak in a light machine oil for 24 hours before fitting it. Seems OK still, although I did smear some light oil in there before it was reassembled again. You don't want oil and grease flying about inside the clutch housing with nice new friction components.

Chris.

Managed to get a bit more done today.

First order of business - solve the problem of the broken lug on the manifold.



I thought the knackered rocker shaft might be useful for something. It let me make this:



Which, after a bit of tweaking fits like this:



Clamps over the edge quite neatly and was torqued down easily.



Heatshield trimmed back to allow improved access to the ever troublesome exhaust clamp. Hopefully I won't have to pull the carbs off for access now.



And the carbs back on. Just need to get the radiator back from the repairers and I think the engine can be refitted.

Chris.

The two previous posters have massive knowledge of taking engines in and out of 'crabs. I on the other hand have none. I do however have an old file of top tips collected from one of the defunct chat groups in Australia. There seems to be experience there of fetching it out from the underneath the car. This is what one of them said, I don't have a record of it but I hope they won't mind; but please note our technical advice disclaimer - the yellow bit at the top of the page.

Nick

ENGINE REMOVAL Simplified engine/transmission removal can be attained WITHOUT using a lifting block and tackle using the minimum of tools and equipment:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove engine sump guard.
3. Drain engine oil and water.
4. Remove R/H front wheel and support - place an axle stand under frame beneath front suspension unit.
5. Fit a 1" block between upper arm and rubber. This allows easy removal of the swivel hub.
6. Remove brake caliper and hang it up on an S-hook under mudguard.
7. Remove 2 bolts to the steering arm and fold back out of the way (MKII). Disconnect tie rod on Mk l.
8. Remove nut to lower ball joint and use two hammers, simultaneously striking side on to release taper. A hydraulic jack placed under tension between upper and lower arms will help to release.
9. Remove stabiliser bar and gusset plate to front of vehicle.
10. Disconnect universal joint.
11. Remove upper ball joint nut, strike with two hammers simultaneously. Assembly will fall under it's own weight.
12. Withdraw hub/shaft assembly.
13. Repeat steps 4 to 12 on the L/H side.
14. remove exhaust clamps and fittings throughout and remove complete exhaust system in situ.
15. Remove gear lever inside car and stuff some clean rag into the hole to prevent dirt entering.
16. Loosen the three nuts to the gear-change assembly. Remove the front nut but leave the rear two nuts on at least a couple of threads.
17. Disconnect cables, hoses, etc. to carburettor, speedometer, heater, radiator, manifold and fuel pump.
18. Remove clutch slave cylinder leaving hydraulic pipe attached, carburettor, exhaust manifold completely, solenoid, and all electrical leads to starter motor, coil, distributor, alternator, and temperature unit, (identifying each with masking tape or similar).
19. Remove distributor cap.
20. Place two 3"x 2" timber battens underneath engine.
21. Use two or three jacks in conjunction with the Austin jack, lower car to floor in easy stages. NEVER use two Austin jacks together, as the car will fall sideways.
22. Release the two nuts to gear-change inside car and lower assembly to floor.
23. Remove bolts to engine mounting channel and remove the two rear engine mounts.
24. Remove L/H side exhaust engine mount.
25. Remove R/H side alternator engine mount.
26. Raise the car in easy stages, sufficiently to clear motor and then pull/slide complete motor/transmission assembly forward.

Using this method, the assembly can be removed from the car in two to three hours. An added advantage is the motor can be easily test run before fitting to the car, with the oil and cooling systems filled.

Probably not a good recommendation but I always preferred to use a good quality tow rope wound around the engine and transmission to attach to the engine hoist. This allowed me to adjust the angles in both planes for easy removal and replacement. I never had any problems but kept a careful watch on the rope for any damage and replaced it if in any doubt.

Regards

David