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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 19, 2013 19:35:56 GMT
Uh-oh......  Not sure that I like the look of that. Chris. |
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 19, 2013 23:45:47 GMT
Nor me, what is it?
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 20, 2013 0:15:54 GMT
Mayonnaise in the rocker box cap. I am now somewhat re-assured by a discussion with Adrian (accompanied by beer) that it is most likely a condensate, as the rocker cover is a very thick, heavy alloy construct and the car hadn't turned a wheel in 21/2 weeks. It's not using oil or water and the dip stick is clean. I suspect that I may be fussing over nothing.
Beaumanor in Leicestershire on Sunday - fingers crossed.......
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 20, 2013 1:08:37 GMT
You sure it's not froth from the beer  Ask Tommy, he knows all about engine breathing! Good luck tomorrow, you need an aircon fitted? Regards David Mayonnaise in the rocker box cap. I am now somewhat re-assured by a discussion with Adrian (accompanied by beer) that it is most likely a condensate, as the rocker cover is a very thick, heavy alloy construct and the car hadn't turned a wheel in 2 1/ 2 weeks. It's not using oil or water and the dip stick is clean. I suspect that I may be fussing over nothing. Beaumanor in Leicestershire on Sunday - fingers crossed....... Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Jul 20, 2013 4:47:53 GMT
Well, not sure if I know all there is about engine breathing. A bit curious about that cap, though.. Has it got a hole for letting air in, like the original? Nothing to worry about I guess. There will usually be some condensation in the PCV too, if driven after standing for a while.
I'm now in the air, on my way to Spain. Looking forward to sunny weather:-)
Regards, Tommy
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 20, 2013 18:35:53 GMT
Driven about 20 miles today - no recurrence, so we might be fine.
Enjoy your break, Tommy.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 22, 2013 23:27:36 GMT
Ho hum - 100 mile run to Beaumanor Hall, lovely spot, 500 odd cars on show. Engine ran faultlessly, which was good; universal joint bearing cup managed to fall out of nearside driveshaft, which was not.
*Sigh* Home on the recovery truck........
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Jul 23, 2013 1:03:44 GMT
Bugger, sorry to hear that mate.
Nothing too hard to fix I hope?
-Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 23, 2013 2:48:16 GMT
Sorry to hear this. Look on the bright side you probably saved £25 on petrol Didn't you repair the other u/j recently? Regards David Ho hum - 100 mile run to Beaumanor Hall, lovely spot, 500 odd cars on show. Engine ran faultlessly, which was good; universal joint bearing cup managed to fall out of nearside driveshaft, which was not. *Sigh* Home on the recovery truck........ Chris. |
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Post by Nick RS on Jul 23, 2013 18:13:10 GMT
Sorry to hear about the bad luck, it must have been a long trek home. With my limited skills I always make sure that I carry my RAC cards and mobile phone as well as the usual selection of tools.
Had I not been coming back from a weeks holiday I would have gone to Beaumanor as it is quite local to me.
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 23, 2013 23:48:55 GMT
Well, she's running again, but I'm not very happy.
Replaced driveshaft for one with a rubber cross. It fouled the exhaust and sounded absolutely awful. Spaced the exhaust back on its bracket slightly which gave clearance, but has opened the manifold joint. Sliding joint also looks almost entirely compressed. Not quite sure what that is about.
Anyway, van back functional, so car can stay in the garage pending further investigation.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 24, 2013 1:26:49 GMT
I am confused about what transmission you are using in your Mk1 car. I'm sure you are aware that there were two types of driveshaft. The first had a fixed flange and the second type had the sliding joint. The second type shaft will fit into the first type diff case but requires a distance piece. My w/s manual strangely describes the universal joint but not the rubber spider. I had always understood that the u/j was only fitted to automatic gearboxes but now I am not sure this is correct. I think you need to take some measurements to see why the sliding joint is nearly fully compressed. Could it be that your driveshaft with the u/j is shorter and there are distance pieces in the diff? (See w/s manual Section F Fig F12/13) Glad to see your van going again and it's a bit cooler! Regards David Well, she's running again, but I'm not very happy. Replaced driveshaft for one with a rubber cross. It fouled the exhaust and sounded absolutely awful. Spaced the exhaust back on its bracket slightly which gave clearance, but has opened the manifold joint. Sliding joint also looks almost entirely compressed. Not quite sure what that is about. Anyway, van back functional, so car can stay in the garage pending further investigation. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 28, 2013 20:21:11 GMT
I am confused about what transmission you are using in your Mk1 car. I'm sure you are aware that there were two types of driveshaft. The first had a fixed flange and the second type had the sliding joint. The second type shaft will fit into the first type diff case but requires a distance piece. MkIII on my car. Blame Mr. Vernon Smith, the previous owner. My w/s manual strangely describes the universal joint but not the rubber spider. I had always understood that the u/j was only fitted to automatic gearboxes but now I am not sure this is correct. Three types of driveshaft all together. Fixed, sliding auto and sliding manual. Auto shaft has a ridge halfway down it's length. The car was originally an auto, they're a hang over really. I think you need to take some measurements to see why the sliding joint is nearly fully compressed. I intended to, but got distracted. You'll see why shortly. Could it be that your driveshaft with the u/j is shorter and there are distance pieces in the diff? (See w/s manual Section F Fig F12/13)  ! Will go swat...... Glad to see your van going again and it's a bit cooler! Regards David . Ta. Blower fan's gone again........  Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jul 28, 2013 21:24:15 GMT
So......... I scraped up enough bits to build a pair of drive shafts with the hairy rubber spider joint, as I have rather lost confidence in the UJ ones.  I also stripped the CV joints, cleaned and repacked them with grease before fitting new boots. If anyone is interested, I did take photos of this, as it's a bit of an exercise in logic, so can write it up for you. So, hubs off, old shafts out, new ones in. Not quite - an assembled rubber spider joint won't fit through the hole in the wing, so it has to be passed through from the inside to the outside. On the offside, the lower engine tie-bar has to go as well. New dust boots on the ball joints and put it all back together - except........... I poked this bit of metal at the bottom of the o/s wheel arch. Several large holes later, I decided that the car wasn't going to Ripon Racecourse today.   First patch in, lower part opened out to a sensible shape. The line of weld running up to the top right is the the edge of the closing panel. I was very surprised to find that this had never been welded to the bulkhead panel. It is now.  Nice big repair to the closing panel.  And a little frilly bit.  And round the back of it.  Lick of etch primer, then seam sealer. Finished it with primer, Very Tough Paint, stonechip and a good dollop of underseal. Hopefully I won't have to re-visit it for a while. Anyway, had a little run out and she seems nice and quiet up front. Just the blowing exhaust manifold joint to sort. Chris. |
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Post by indianajones on Jul 28, 2013 21:31:13 GMT
That looks all too familiar to me!
Interesting you say you've given up on the UJ joints, I've been thinking of going for the poly ones myself, will see how long my current rubbers last for.
-Andrew
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! Will go swat......
