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Post by indianajones on Mar 4, 2012 23:53:35 GMT
My point is to be sure do the rebuild yourself, or check the engine you buy thoroughly before you install it. ^^^ this makes so much sense. Hence why I'd rather do it myself/over see the work. Peace of mind. -Andrew |
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 5, 2012 11:23:21 GMT
Hi Chris You probably won't want to read this but..... There have been a number of cases where low mileage 1800 engines have failed prematurely after being laid up because of electrolytic corrosion between the crank and the bearing shells; it can result in throwing a rod. I think this very unlikely as your Gold Seal engine clearly has all the protection fitted at the factory, but it is a long time ago. It shouldn't take long to just undo a couple of bearings to check out. As far as the difference between the cylinders on the old engine, it may be exaggerated by using the twin carbs and the "1800" soft cam. There is an article at www.starchak.ca/efi/siamese.htmwhich describes the problems of fuel injecting a siamesed port engine and from my reading I think that the combination of the standard 1800 cam and twin carbs may not be ideal. I stand to be corrected I have interpolated the assumption! Regards David |
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Post by threelitre on Mar 5, 2012 12:10:39 GMT
Alexander Do you notice more of less variation between cylinders with twin carb set ups. In theory the variation is greater at high rpm and high loads, but I think that valve timing where the inlet valve closes quite early as on 1800 (but less so on 1800S/MGB) also contributes. I have actually driven my s/c 1800 such few miles I can't call this experience. But in the proper 1800 S there is always this pattern - overlaid with the additional pattern of cylinder 1 looking to run a little cooler than cylinder 4... The Maxi shows a quite even pattern even as a S/C engine. On the 3litre the outmost cylinders have longer runners and seem to get a slightly weaker mixture in practice than the remaining 4. I've got an American spec MGC inlet manifold to take care of that at some point... Regards, Alexander |
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 6, 2012 1:38:33 GMT
Thank you for all the comments.
I will say that, yes, it was a bargain. I will add that I have never seen another one advertised anywhere, ever. This was a complete fluke and I'm rather grateful.
Do we accept that the carbon deposits are an inevitable consequence of owning a "B" series engined car? Posts above seem to suggest that this is the case. I don't thrash the car and rarely rev it hard, although I do cruise at 65mph on the bi-annual trip down to Cornwall and I will speed up to pass other vehicles.
David, I can see where the article is coming from, but a lot of that was just way over my head.
In some ways, I suppose we are blessed. This is a '50's engine, so it was built to fairly sloppy tolerances in the first place, although no doubt this one will be better as it's basically been re-built by hand as opposed to being shot down a production line. Reading the manual and the tolerances involved for wear and the fitment of new components suggests that you could just about get away with new bearings and a re-ring on the original engine as it is one of the most forgiving engines ever built and it'd be good for plenty of time to come. If I do 3-4k miles a year mileage, I'd be rather surprised. That would give it 5 or 6 years before the problems would arise again. With this new unit, that will hopefully be much further ahead. Perhaps the kids will be re-building this engine in 20 years time when they inherit it?
With regards to the engine being painted gold, I have been re-considering my position on this. It would be Bronze Green if new. They're all Bronze Green and I don't particularly like it as a colour, and there are hundreds of them out there. A genuine Gold Seal must be a pretty rare beast these days..... I suspect that I'll stick with it, perhaps even repaint it gold.
I have never set out to build a concours car; rather a used, tidy, family vehicle as a period piece. I think the result will fit in with idea of a 5 year old vehicle getting some mainenance.
Chris.
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Post by indianajones on Mar 6, 2012 3:01:14 GMT
Nice post Chris.
I'm sure this new engine shall give you 20+ years of happy motoring _b
As for the colour, you know where I stand, i.e. do what you want!
On that note thanks for the idea of painting it red, I shall keep that in mind when I do my engine one day.
-Andrew
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Post by threelitre on Mar 6, 2012 13:07:05 GMT
My father's 1800 S engine is black - it was bought as a brand new replacement engine as these were cheaper than rebuilding it here in Germany at the time (early 80s). Well, we repainted the rocker cover some sort of green as it was rather scruffy at some point.
Regards,
Alexander
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Post by sherpa on Mar 7, 2012 19:42:37 GMT
[quoteWith regards to the engine being painted gold, I have been re-considering my position on this. It would be Bronze Green if new. They're all Bronze Green and I don't particularly like it as a colour, and there are hundreds of them out there. A genuine Gold Seal must be a pretty rare beast these days..... I suspect that I'll stick with it, perhaps even repaint it gold.
[/quote]
Fair point. I ended up painting my engine with the wrong colour green and thats worse than either.
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 8, 2012 1:31:35 GMT
Hi Dan. Did you? I thought it looked superb! Apparently there was a colour change in 1964.... Being red/green, green/blue, blue/white colour blind doesn't exactly make me the best person to pass comment! I have been busy.......     Engine has been cleaned and repainted. As you can see, it's now back on the gearbox and the adaptor plate has been re-fitted. All mating surfaces have been coated with Loctite 5922 and all gaskets have been replaced. I have spent hours getting clean metal surfaces.... The engine now has a new crank seal fitted, new spigot bearing and the flywheel is back on with a new tab washer. Manifolds are refitted as well. Might have a power unit by the weekend. Looking good. Chris. |
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Post by Keef on Mar 8, 2012 1:42:46 GMT
Looking good!  |
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Post by sherpa on Mar 8, 2012 23:29:00 GMT
Good stuff this as always. Im also fully backing the gold engine now-original feature but different. The missus watches Eastenders and I have your Sunday night Landcrab updates.
Whos sadder, me or her?
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 9, 2012 1:09:15 GMT
Heh - sounds rather like my Mrs. She likes the idea that I have a hobby, but I'm sure she doesn't quite "get it". Cars don't interest her at all and driving is just a function to be performed comfortably, preferably with heat and music.....
Trying to explain the joys of a quiet B road being driven just a little faster than you should, cutting the white line and using the camber are lost.......
Anyway. New clutch and pressure plate are now fitted, flywheel housing is back on, idler gears are back in place and the big nut on the first motion shaft has been torqued to 120 ft/lbs. This is a lot - I was quite pleased that I managed it!
As usual, most of the time went in getting clean metal - old gaskets are a pain.
Chris.
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 10, 2012 1:15:50 GMT
Power unit is now complete. Just the ancillaries to go. Still got one or two brackets to clean and repaint. Exhaust bracket needed bashing with a big hammer and welding. It's now ground back, scrubbed clean and painted. I still have to fix the radiator top bracket and that should be it.
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 10, 2012 6:05:18 GMT
A great job, well done! You may wish to consider priming the oilways before putting the unit back in the car. I recall having to undo the banjo on the oil pipe and fill it to get the oil pressure to build up. It would have been easier out of the car. regards David Power unit is now complete. Just the ancillaries to go. Still got one or two brackets to clean and repaint. Exhaust bracket needed bashing with a big hammer and welding. It's now ground back, scrubbed clean and painted. I still have to fix the radiator top bracket and that should be it. Chris. |
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 11, 2012 0:49:59 GMT
Thanks David, noted. Everything is back on bar the radiator and the distributor. Radiator needs the cowls tidying up and a couple of screws sorting. The broken top bracket is now repaired and painted. Dizzy is being a bit of a headache. It was a complete s@d to get off due to the clamp bracket being somewhat abused - the bolt was bent for a start  . Anyway, I have cleaned everything ruthlessly and the dizzy itself is fine. Reading BL's Book of Worms tells me to set cylinders 1 + 4 to TDC before inserting the dizzy; ensure that the rotor arm aligns at the no. 1 firing position. It doesn't - the rotor arm is pointing at no. 3, so it appears to be 90 degrees out. The Manual further explains the alignment of the drive shaft when fitted to the engine - I suspect that someone has got it wrong....... Oh, great. Chris. |
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Post by tommydp on Mar 11, 2012 2:26:41 GMT
Hi Chris! I'm a bit into the gin bottle, as well as the Norwegian Aquavit bottle.. However, I hope to reach you before you carry on.. Spelling might suffer..
Now, I know a thing or two about this! Turn the engine to TDC for cylinders one and four, when number one is firing, ie both valves on number one closed, when you have valve clearance on number one cylinder, valves on number four are just changing, one closing, one opening. No clearance on number four then.
At this setting, insert the distributor drive gear, horizontally. Larger segment up. Try inserting the dizzy. Rotor arm should point roughly at 1- 2 o' clock, ie cap segment for cylinder one.
NOTE: manuals are wrong when it comes to this. If you install the timing gears so the dots are close to each other makes it fire at number four cylinder. When dots are aligned, but furthest away from eachother it's firing on number one cylinder!
Oh, I love that golden engine! I wanted to tell you to keep the engine gold, but didn't dare:-) Glad to see you chose the golden colour:-)
I'm also about to get another complete 1800 engine over here, I got a fascinating phone call from a 80 yrs old, nice gentleman, but that's another story to come back to.
Cheers:-) Tommy:-)
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. Anyway, I have cleaned everything ruthlessly and the dizzy itself is fine. Reading BL's Book of Worms tells me to set cylinders 1 + 4 to TDC before inserting the dizzy; ensure that the rotor arm aligns at the no. 1 firing position. It doesn't - the rotor arm is pointing at no. 3, so it appears to be 90 degrees out. The Manual further explains the alignment of the drive shaft when fitted to the engine - I suspect that someone has got it wrong.......