DFD702K.

Incidentally - does anyone know how you get the dashboard center (the bit with radio and ashtray) out? I want to remake it a little to put a replacement clock in, and a few other mods.

Also if you pull the dashboard there is on my car two sets of upper stud holes - use the set further back or you *will* end up wanting to set the whole thing alight because the dash won't go back. There is an odd rectangular lump behind the speedo with thick green wires coming out. Anyone know what it is?

Is it worth putting water heating on the carb intake? Since with the original air box it has a wai anyway.

How easy would it be to get a lower 4th machined and fitted? Because oddly enough the ratios for 1-4 on the Wolseley are practically identical to 1-4 on my 2005 Hyundai and a 4th gear ratio equivalent to 5th on the Hyundai would make a fantastic difference to the Wolseley.

Finally some bright spark has sealed the door shuts at the bottom with what looks like bathroom sealant, I'm getting the impression this isn't from the factory?

All of it or none of it... Although snoopy11 may wish to expand on that. He had a harrowing experience trying to get the centre section out. The next time, the two us just pulled out the lot. We also had the clock converted to a quartz mechanism by JDO INSTRUMENTS. Not particularly cheap, but a fit and forget solution.


Bottom parcel shelf brackets have two mounts as well. Very frustrating. Box at back of speedo will be the voltage stabiliser for the instruments. Thought you'd had your combustible moment for 2018?


Not something I've heard of being done. The carburettor is warmed by the "hotspot" manifold, as the exhaust and inlet are one casting. The air intake tube can be rotated from the 8 o'clock position (Summer - pointing at end of exhaust maifold) to a 6 o'clock position (Winter - drawing air off the bulk of the mainifold). Others may know differently!

! How big is the budget? The only way I've heard of to up the gearing is to find the differential pinion and crown wheel from a 1.7 automatic Ambassador. Scrap yards must be littered with them. Not. Trouble is that changing the overall gearing changes your speedometer output as well, so that would need to be corrected back too.


Definitey not. Stout wire and rod them back through. Might even be worth pulling off the door cards and having a look from the inside. It would also give you an opportunity to shoot in plenty of cavity wax.

Hope that's some help,

Chris.

Hi all

I thought that speedo part might be the regulator for the instruments, that's why I left it well alone.

The sealant has been applied along the sill top on the interior side of the kick plates, not on the actual doors - or they'd have rotted out in seconds.

I can recommend the spitfire lead - it made a real difference - cold start is a little slower on choke but it doesn't gas everyone within 30ft and is much smoother and can cruise at 55-60mph.

Check your fuel lines. I got the car and could smell something odd that I didn't recognise. Few days later I smell it again - stop in carpark at home and look with engine hot and idling - something pouring down back of block on passenger side - I thought coolant leak - it was neat petrol spraying over the bottom of the bulkhead (the suspension tube). This less than a month after passing MOT! and ALWAYS butt the fuel line up tight to the float chamber intake (cue neat petrol dribbling everywhere and poor starting).

I was contemplating faired in round LED lights between headlights and grille (ala VdP prototype) but not necessary in end with LED sealed beams.

I thought it might be a power steering dynamo because it's got a bolt on the back end. It's charging fine, the voltage is OK and around the level you suggest (didn't stop the incompetent idiots who did the polarity change trying to tell me I needed a new one).

There's definitely something wrong with the bottom end of the engine - the little end bearings are rattly (thank the previous owner for that, lots of short journeys and replacing the oil every second week it appears) - I've no idea the actual idle speed when I got it, but it wasn't happy - by ear it's idling about the same now as the hyundai hot, about 800. But I can't for the life of me find anyone willing to work on it. They can get me the parts, no problem, doing the job? Not a chance. The top end appears perfect, 300 miles back from Blackpool - motorway and A roads 34mpg.
I'm not going to be working on it for a few days. My Tegu got upset this morning (I suspect toothache) and bit me on the inside of right knee - so barely able to walk.
Other problems are rust and damage on one of the front doors and very strange patterns in the original paint - eye shaped bumps under the green paint - that when you flat it back to repaint seem to disappear. I'm assuming it's blvc25?. Currently it's two tone - ivory (similar to blvc4 Bedouin) over the green. I'm debating a black bonnet (to help retain and increase engine bay warmth.
Part of the reason for the ivory roof & boot is the dire state of the green - the other reason is that it keeps the interior and roof & associated panels about 20% cooler so cooling the interior.
Engine doesn't get to the 'N' area unless idling in traffic - it's always just below.
Gear lever is floppy and it needs a new gaiter but I suspect adjusting the shift properly will solve the free play problem.
Brakes are very good but it gets tiresome when idiots walk out or pull out in front of me and expect me to stop in 3ft. I think they might be confusing the Wolseley with the kretinwagen Countryman - which looks very similar to the Wolseley to the average uneducated Hollyoaks watcher and is about the same size.
It's solid but tired is the best way to describe the car, but it's nice to drive and rides better than anything bar my mum's old C5 estate - which is high praise.

I hope your leg pain improves. We have many large lizards here and if unlucky enough to get bitten. they normally run away, we are advised to have antibiotic and tetanus injections without delay as their mouths carry a wide range of bacteria. Not sure if that applies to pets.

It does sound as though the oil pressure gauge may be correct. Worth sorting out the leak on the oil filter housing to see if that's having any effect. The only option sounds as though it will be necessary to pull the engine. Although these engines are tough without oil pressure they will eventually throw a rod and destroy the gearbox and head at the same time. Running with very low oil pressure will also starve the camshaft and valve gear. There is an oil pressure relief valve and this can weaken. Some advocate increasing idle oil pressure by adding a washer to tighten the spring but if there is bearing wear it is not a lasting solution.


Did you buy the car from Mike T advertised on the LOCI website last year?

David

Priscus has bitten me before - has caught hand a couple of times - this was just above inside knee. Went to GP and got some antibiotics - apparently I've never had a tetanus shot. I'm assuming you mean either Iguana or Monitors. Both can give a bite but you have to be *very* careful of a monitor bite - bosc, perentie, lace, water etc - because they have an anticoagulant venom held in lower jaw. Tegu have a habit of death rolling like crocs - and their favourite food is Croc eggs.
There really isn't any point ragging a landcrab - you won't get there any faster. I try and be gentle with cars, I've never taken it above 70, and mostly below 55, the chassis can take a *lot* more power - the supercharged MGB engine for example but even that's pointless because you can't use it.
If I could get the engine fixed I'd definitely go to a .869 4th - the engine can cope with it and it'd improve mpg & lower rpm by 500. Top speed then might hit 100mph.
I'd drop the 1800B diesel in there if I could find one - still good for 70mph but better mpg and torque but they're stupid money or in bits. An LP turbo on that at 7psi would give you 86hp or so. I guess if you fitted the MGB head with the supercharger kit you could make a supercharged diesel - which might be an interesting project.
On the air intake is the winter position straight down or slightly to the side? It's barely a cm off the downpipe now.
Can barely hobble at the moment, can't really straighten leg - so it'll just be sitting there - it's in carport kind of thing.

I have to say that David's predition on what will happen should you have a bearing go while driving at speed is 100% accurate. You will indeed need to rebuild the gearbox as well as all the other damage that will be a result! As Im sure you realise you will need to keep a keen ear out for changes in the sound of the engine while you drive. If you are running with no oil pressure at higher revs then this is likely so be something you will only be doing in the short term, before something bad happens! There is a fine line, but as I said it is possible to nurse them for some time sucessfully with common sense.