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Post by Nick RS on Feb 24, 2013 22:13:49 GMT
Thank goodness for the wonders of the Internet. I managed to find a set of instructions on the Davies Craig site for my electric water pump and controller. This could be a whole can of worms and I may make it the subject of a future thread - "wot, no 'stat in your motor?"
Anyway it says part of the kit is a red test lamp to be mounted on the dash. So this is the red light that has been alarming me on drives. My excuse is that it is by the ignition key, comes on with the ignition and goes off when the engine starts. It is however a warning light and accompanied by the flashing lights on the control unit itself (they're not supposed to flash) point to what the likely fault is. Some of them relate to over or under voltage and this seems likely after my tests this weekend. I'll just have to wait till next weekend to take it on a run and see exactly which ones come on and off and I'll need to pull over as it's buried in the passenger footwell.
The real charge light in its original position has not lit during this episode.
Another day wiser - N
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 23, 2013 11:15:33 GMT
Interesting.
I tried to be as methodical as possible with this.
Checked battery voltage - 11.9v (normal for this battery, I know I need to replace it). Checked current drain - 0.6AMP same as before. Disconnected alternator, tested again 0.05AMP once water pump woke up and went to sleep again. Reconnected alternator, tested again 0.05AMP - huh?
Then I ran the car at various speeds and the voltage was just over 14 regardless. The charging light came on, still 14. (the voltmeter in the car was very close to my multimeter reading so I used that). Then switched it all on viz: headlamps, spotlamps, fogs, heated rear screen, hazard flashers and got it down to about 13 to 13.5 volts, slow and fast speed running didn't make much difference with if anything slightly lower voltage at higher revs. Interestingly the indicators caused the voltmeter to flick back and forth in by one volt at each flash (normal???). I ran the engine until the fan cut in and with everything on got it down to 12 volts.
Let it all cool down a bit and switched off. Battery now reading 12.1 volts and the current drain 0.05AMP. Now I know that my IT department at work say "Have you tried unplugging it and switching on again?" but I didn't think this applied to alternators. I don't like ignoring warning lights so believe I may still have a problem but as you know I am no expert. May leave it a few days and test again.
I think my alternator came out of a Nissan Primera but if I were to replace it is a lucas 18ACR the or its modern equivalent the best to go for?
Still a bit confused but grateful thanks David and Chris for pointing me in this direction first and saving me a chunk of time.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 22, 2013 18:00:58 GMT
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 20, 2013 22:10:20 GMT
Andrew, You've obviously got some interesting choices for your modern car. Over here the K series does seem to have a bad rep that may not be fully deserved. When they were new they were well regarded and from my time at Rover in the 90s the only real nightmare version was the 2.5 KV6 fitted into the R800 which from memory was quite thoroughly reworked before going into the 75. I've a number of friends running MGFs as emerging classics and they are all taking the precaution of uprating the head gaskets as they are known to go particularly on 1.8s. As for the 75 I have family experience as my father owned a 2.5 V6 from new in 2001 and it was completely reliable in the ten years he had it. His one big bill was replacing the timing belts which was a big job with his car at the Garage for two days. You need to bear this in mind if you take on V6 R75 but the 2.5 engine and the autobox worked really well for my Dad with lots of easy power and effortless torque; funnily enough his R75 replaced a 623 Auto - another car on your list.
happy hunting - Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 20, 2013 21:55:06 GMT
Chris, that's definitely a good call which I will add to David's list for my weekend's activity. My charging light has sometimes been coming on at mid revs only to go out again when I slow down. At least I assume it is the charging light as it is yet another non standard fitment, this time in the middle of the wood panel shared with the ignition slot.
all part of my education.... Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 18, 2013 21:04:05 GMT
Thank you David, a good list to have a go at over the next few days. The water pump does run on for a minute or two after switching the engine off so I will check the control box too. There is a lot of additional wiring on this car, I may be some time.
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 18, 2013 19:28:33 GMT
618, 620 and 623 petrol engines were Honda apart from the 620ti which used Rover's T series, Tommy is right the ti was good on fuel despite its power but again manual only. The other one is the L series diesel but from memory that was manual only too.
Years ago I lent my Flame Red ti to Rover's Marketing team for photography for an advert likening it to Jekyll & Hide. I'll try and dig out a copy. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 18, 2013 12:44:37 GMT
I had three of these when they were new as I worked for Rover Cars at the time. The 1.6 auto was the most closely related to Honda due to the powertrain, the earlier ones even had a Honda steering wheel with a Rover badge as opposed to the standard (and nicer) Rover item. My main memory of the auto was its thirst for fuel with about 25MPG about normal (you'll have to translate that). There were one or two with water leaks but they should have been well sorted by now. The saloon version had an enormous boot / trunk and could carry much more than the hatch as long as it wasn't bulky. I've a friend who still used a 1.4K manual and is very happy with it, very little gone wrong. The Rover 600 was a better built car and always had good scores in the internal faults per car measures that we used at the time. If you find one the 2.0 litre auto is a better drive than the 1.8 auto and more economical - I had both.
happy daze - Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 17, 2013 21:30:58 GMT
I need to replace the ailing battery in my 18/85 but before doing so I thought it worthwhile seeing if there was anything that might have caused the decline of the old one. No point in buying a new one only to have it go the same way in a few weeks time. Feeling my way through car maintenance I find the articles in Practical Classics and similar a great help. The one on the use of a multimeter lead me to discover a current drain. Following the guide I set about removing the fuses one by one. The collection in the driver's footwell made no change so I then went for the ones in the AMP box on the bulkhead. The circuit protected by the middle fuse is the culprit, and Mr Haynes says it covers items independent of the ignition being on. The draw is 0.6amps and my first thought is to the radio installation. - any tips or suggestions for other things I should be testing? I am sure there there could well be a long list.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 17, 2013 21:17:05 GMT
I rented a Matiz on holiday in Malta 2000. A fun little car which was ideal for the roads on the island. I only really caught it out once, by putting airconditioning on going up a hill; just about stopped the car in its tracks. There's a lot to be said for a teenager having a low powered car, I started out with a 55BHP Triumph Toledo which kept me out of trouble for a long time.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Feb 2, 2013 19:19:17 GMT
Took advantage of nice weather today to take the car out on a short run to get it warmed up so that I could change the oil. Since putting a little more pressure in the tyres the steering definitely feels a bit more responsive and at low speeds it seems just about OK. An original spec steering wheel and the correct tyres will probably get it to normal. Got a modern spin on filter on the car which didn't come out without a real fight. All the brackets and pipes for the oil cooler meant that there was no leverage room. Still it's done now for another year. I was also planning to check the steering column clamp bolt but none of my spanners or sockets would let me get a grip on it, so that will have to wait until I can find something suitable. Since I had the front wheel off I thought you may be interested in having a look at the telescopic damper installation on my car so here's a pic. Attachments:
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Post by Nick RS on Jan 31, 2013 20:49:12 GMT
Indy, you'll find your ideal car here then on the great aronline www.aronline.co.uk/blogs/cars/bmc-cars/18002200/the-cars-bmc-18002200-development-history/ about half way down there is an image of the 1800 estate. 1800 front / Maxi rear; sort of. There is also some footage of the Maxi under development on youtube which is well worth a look. The editor always cuts the footage just before you get a good look at the blue car which is a great pity as it is the Maxi Saloon which was never produced (just about see the windowless c-pillar) In my fantasy garage I would have an early rod change 1750 on hydrolastic.... Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jan 22, 2013 20:55:10 GMT
David, thanks for your thoughts on the car which are very much appreciated. I'll take a closer look over the weekend and see if I can work out which upper arms it has, the Haynes manual has told me what to look for. My thoughts on the steering are replace the adjustable column and steering wheel with original items, change to the correct size tyres and get the geometry checked as one big job in the Spring. The other thing I want to check is the column clamp bolt which the handbook says should be looked at every three months. Am I right in thinking that this is accessed though the wheel arch?
As to the history of the car, it is a bit vague. I am the 11th owner, the previous two carried out the modifications. The person I bought the car from wanted a mechanically good car that he could drive as often as he wished without worrying too much about originality. It served him well over six years. The owner prior to that also made modifications but didn't keep any records or bills. I have no idea if it was ever rallied but the modifications certainly look like that was in mind - maybe they didn't have the heart to rip out the interior.
Over Christmas I did meet a man who has an 18/85 rally car and when I told him about mine he was interested but couldn't understand the need for an oil cooler either. He had taken his car across Europe many times and said the standard set up was perfectly satisfactory.
To change the subject slightly. I know I shouldn't really be excited by this now that we all live in a global village but I think it's great to make contact and share an interest with others across the world. Tommy, knowing you are in Norway will stop me complaining about the British winter weather; Alexander, I'll ask my friends at Jaguar to give you a wave if they see a BMC car on the Nurburgring
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jan 21, 2013 17:13:59 GMT
last one for now Attachments:
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Post by Nick RS on Jan 21, 2013 17:12:40 GMT
another Attachments:
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