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Post by Nick RS on Jun 17, 2013 17:32:15 GMT
Chris, Great pictures. I recognise two of the Wolseleys as cars I looked at last year when they were for sale. I like the 2200 with the Rostyles and the one behind looks like Tundra Green. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 15, 2013 20:13:45 GMT
Chris Wish I were going tomorrow, have good trip and take a few pics for us. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 14, 2013 21:02:57 GMT
David, There will be a lot of people more expert on this than me but one piece of info I have gleaned from another manual is that engine 27523 marks the change from 4.187 final drive to 3.882 as standard fit and as far as I am aware this change dates to January 1965.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 14, 2013 20:53:02 GMT
I think the gear change is now sorted. In the end two of the three cables needed adjusting as the jaws were just beginning to foul the interlock arm. A 20 mile drive last night involved plenty of gear changing and everything was fine. 2nd had a much more positive feel. I've also changed the radio. I never liked the retro looking modern device that was so complicated that I had to dig out the manual to work out how to turn it off. I have a lovely looking Motorola set in keeping with the age of the car but it doesn't seem to get a signal so I've installed this instead. It cost me the same as a pint of beer and I can get FM. It may not be correct for the period, but then check out my switchgear. I've also found a throttle cable in my box of goodies Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 13, 2013 18:31:25 GMT
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 11, 2013 19:55:54 GMT
Chris, I don't think I'll be making the LOCI National this weekend so it's great news for me if you make B in W in August. I am planning to stay in Yorkshire with the family for a few days after the show.
Just gone out to look at the car. The red snap in part is broken. I am sure this hasn't helped as it is easy for it to get lodged without locating properly. Need to find a replacement
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 10, 2013 20:22:48 GMT
Thanks David, I wouldn't have thought of that. If it happens I'll update with a post Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 9, 2013 18:09:45 GMT
Idling now correct, thanks for all the advice. The throttle cable was too tight and things are a lot better now. Last tank of fuel has given me 28.4MPG which included a lot of time revving and idling while I checked the timing and the carburettor. There is one thing has been cropping up a bit more frequently and that is a tendency for the car to refuse to engage 2nd gear. It will either jump out straight away or will protest with the sound of teeth and not go in at all. It doesn't happen all the time which is making me hope that it isn't something that's suddenly broken, more an adjustment. I've started at the cables and had a go at adjusting them. On a very short test run things seem OK but as I say it doesn't happen all the time. In case it's not the cables is there anything else I should look at should this start again? All the others gears work fine all the time. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 2, 2013 16:34:54 GMT
Here is the close-up of the carb The arrowed lever is the one with the black button showing. Pushing it down just above where the button is allows the revs to drop to normal and they stay there until the throttle is activated again after which the revs only drop to around 800-900 again. There seem to be a lot of interconnected levers. For reference the throttle butterfly closes properly. I tested it gently yesterday and it was fully home. The fast idle screw is also now clear of the cam. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 2, 2013 15:41:23 GMT
Chris, I managed to ease the plate apart but still no joy. I noticed the two other bolts but I'll need some shorter spanners to get access to them. Since Coventry Machine Mart now know me by name I am going to leave that one for a bit. Will keep going with WD40 though. Re-tuned the carb according to David's advice and went on the side of caution and left it a touch rich. The lifting pin test showed a small steady increase in revs before heading for a stall and I checked with a mirror so see that the piston was lifting by the required amount. If anyone else is a complete beginner like me then I can recommend the Pitman book of the 1800 by Staton Abbey which gives a lot explanation around the routine maintenance tasks as opposed to just saying how to take something to bits and put it back together. Usually yours for an opening bid on eBay as there seem to be far more copies around than there are cars extant. It's a nice day here in Leics so I went for a drive to make sure that the performance was still good and no pinking - all OK up to 70 on an incline - good (I think). Couldn't resist a pic. Next post will hopefully show the carb. I'v e done the pic just need to try an edit an arrow on. watch this space. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Jun 1, 2013 21:55:08 GMT
Really tried to adjust the distributor today but just couldn't get it to budge. I may well be missing something but I thought undoing the clamp bolt would be enough to allow it to move. Plan was to back off timing by 5deg to see what effect that had on the idle. Incidentally it is not the programmable version of the 123 so my guess is that it is the generic 4 cylinder British cars model or the MGB specific.
My attention then turned to the carb. It was running a bit rich so I backed it off a couple of flats and got the rpm down to 800. Pushing one of the throttle levers reduced it further so I am pretty much at normal revs though it doesn't return to that point later. I need to take a photo of the part I was pushing on to reduce the revs further as I don't want to go charging in and messing it up. It is difficult to pinpoint on the exploded diagrams in the manuals but with a bit of photo editing and arrows I should be able to point it out. Will post back as soon as able.
Some progress I think, the timing is a bit frustrating though. If i ever do loosen it i'll probably take the whole thing out and find out what curve is set. i don't understand why you have to remove the 123 to do this. I don't normally go above 3500 revs so am not losing sleep over engine damage. I did hear high rpm pinking when I ran on 95 octane for a few days so I know what to listen out for.
Thanks for all the advice so far - Nick
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Post by Nick RS on May 31, 2013 17:02:19 GMT
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Post by Nick RS on May 31, 2013 16:57:04 GMT
Hello Peter, Welcome to the forum and what a great collection of cars you have. There can't be many left hand drive Princesses left.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on May 31, 2013 16:52:40 GMT
Great advice to get a timing light with a dial, it made the job much easier. My father in law is visiting at the moment and he kindly did the footwork inside the car while I grubbed about underneath.
Vacuum connected 1,000 20deg 1,500 22deg 2,000 28deg 2,500 36deg 3,000 40deg 3,500 50deg 4,000 52deg
Vacuum disconnected 1,000 20deg 1,500 24deg 2,000 30deg 2,500 30deg 3,000 34deg 3,500 38deg 4,000 40deg
Still idling at around 1,000
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on May 21, 2013 17:02:07 GMT
Forgot to mention that I did take a look inside the carb at the weekend using a mirror. The throttle butterfly looked like a plain disc with a band or join across the middle. It did appear to be opening and closing properly.
I also got the digital tachometer (ACE Parts, service OK) and compared it to the tacho in the car. When the tacho was 1000rpm the digital device read 950. On the road I recorded about 28 mph at 1500 revs in top and just below 60mph at 3000. Given a bit of speedometer error I think the tacho in the car is about right.
Nick
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