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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 30, 2019 8:04:41 GMT
Picked up the car and had a chat with the man. Kinda adamant that it may be a BW35 but its quite a different thing than in a local ford He compared it more to a BW35 in a Citroen SM (trying to butter me up before letting me down) and said as well as being costly it would be beyond him (didn't want the warranty risk...) I could try to find something with a bad body like this link1or this linkManual.
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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 29, 2019 11:12:22 GMT
Sometimes hope doesn't cut it. After putting it off till we got a not so hot day I took the car into the local expert. I'm happy to say he test drove it to before getting it up to diagnose the problem. But unhappy to hear the verdict, the clutch is slipping even into first and it needs a trans rebuild shucks
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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 10, 2019 2:12:50 GMT
We live in hope. Hope that someone will recognise the car as a valuable piece of heritage of mankind's ingenuity. Hope that the fix will solve the problem Hope that the bill wont be more than twice what I expected.
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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 8, 2019 1:38:42 GMT
Thanks Guys After the sump guard plate is off and the pan cover removed it looks very accessible. I spoke to a transmission shop here - he was very familiar with the BW35 and suggested that if its the main servo it will cause it not getting into second. He went a bit quiet when I mentioned it was an 1800... The same but different Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 6, 2019 9:47:01 GMT
Thanks Dave, Patience is the virtue in this matter. It's not like the car is not drive-able its just a bit of anxiousness and will power to get traction. I would imagine parts for the transmission are fairly common since it was used on lots of cars includes Ford Falcons here. I was sort of hoping that there'd be a know problem fix. I didn't try manually selecting the gears (L) till got a bit of speed - could try that out(?) A drop and swap unit might be a wait but probably the right approach is to wait. Cheers for the new year. Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jan 5, 2019 20:56:43 GMT
Took the car in for auto transmission service. They had no problem taking the sump guard off (an putting on again.) I had previously sucked out the oil through the filler port (since I couldn't get access past the sump guard) There was a bit of gunk in the sump filters but not as much as I expected - some metal filings. The bands were checked/ adjusted (he said the reverse band was at end of range.) There was a hairline crack in the solenoid valve - could be leaking under pressure. The suggestion was to take out the transmission (and engine) and continue exploratory surgery. But it going to be more expensive and maybe a lot more "money for nothing" Not sure how to proceed.
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 13, 2018 3:04:47 GMT
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 6, 2018 14:00:08 GMT
Hi Jim Where are you located? And which car club are you with? Paddy Adelaide
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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 6, 2018 8:01:53 GMT
The car is a MK2 Automatic; occasionally - especially when pulling away uphill the car seem to not get properly into gear. It kind of feels like its slipping or ½ in gear.
Upon start-up and while idling there is a noise emanating from the transmission. Sounded a bit like a wooded spoon rattling inside an empty tin can. The sound didn’t last too long, but that coupled with the drips of transmission oil on the garage floor make me think the trans oil is low.
I readjusted the gear selector cable: the selection is good.
I find the trans dipstick reallyhard to read. On the bottom 8mm of the dipstick there’s a full a generous bead of oil, but beyond that the oil is to one edge of the dip stick, and it hard to tell if it’s more of a smear or truly the oil level. (I’ve been letting the engine warm up and switching through the gears and checking while engine is running.) So I added about ½ litre oil (Castrol, Type F.) Probably overfilled. But no real improvement. The oil did look kind of bubbly (frothy) and came about an inch higher up the dipstick.
It’s not desperate to drive, in fact it might just need me to get used to the car.
I’m wondering should I spend the money and take a transmission specialist to get it properly checked? Or should I just live with it for now?
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Post by paddymk2 on May 28, 2018 14:47:27 GMT
Hi Tommy Yes I got in and tested that connection. I had power - so the issue looks like its e the plastic housing. It might have to wait till I need to get in closer for some other repair. Its never cold here but it could be nice to get warm air demisting. Best regards Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 27, 2018 11:52:04 GMT
Hi Tommy I could see the wires going into the plastic shroud, but I couldn't see how to get access to check the wires going into the units. I there anyway to to get access to the wires, to unscrew the connectors? I found some useful photos at the NSW site: www.amvcnsw.com.au/austin1800/Newsletters/Newsletter06.pdfbut I also found this lovely quote from Herb Simpfendorfer, It would actually be a lot quicker and much less stressful to take the vehicle to the wreckers, and buy another 1800 with a good heater on the way home!
Best regards Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 26, 2018 12:51:53 GMT
Thanks Tommy I'll have another look in the morning. Cheers Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 26, 2018 4:20:45 GMT
Hi there, Since I had the car the blower doesn't work. Fuses and wiring are good. The slide switch is working. There is power coming through (when ignition is on) and the earth seems good.
Is there an easy way to check and replace the motor? Or do I have to pull the whole heater out? No diagrams I my manual, and O haven't seen any thing online.
Best regards
Paddy
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Fuses
May 26, 2018 4:14:10 GMT
Post by paddymk2 on May 26, 2018 4:14:10 GMT
Thanks - I happy enough that it was just the fuse jiggling. I tightened things up and all seems good. Paddy
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Fuses
May 20, 2018 0:51:04 GMT
Post by paddymk2 on May 20, 2018 0:51:04 GMT
Thanks David, I swapped over the fuses for nice clean shiny ones. I'm not sure if all fuses are made equally but the glass tube with a little tab folded over and a loosely pushed on cap seems an awful electrical connection to carry any current. Anyway I took the car for a drive and it seemed to be running really well - till I noticed, petrol gauge on empty and the temp gauge back to low low and indicators not ticking - decide it must be a blown fuse. And then the gauges all came back on and the indicators worked again(?) When I checked it : the new shiny fuse had just slipped down in the holder. I tightened the holder and all is good. (There must be some general learning from this ...)
Paddy
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