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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 20, 2022 23:10:42 GMT
Hi All, In taking off the wheel and disconnecting the drives (to remove the engine) I had to open up the ball joints and took out the steering rack to overhaul. Putting things back together,
i found that the ball joints kept turning. Mr Youtube said just to us a crowbar to wedge the joint before tightening the nut - seems easier said than done (only 2 hands...) So I planned to put the wheels on, and lower the car to force the joints into position before (lift the car and remove the wheels) tightening the nuts. - Does that seem reasonable/safe?
With the tie rod ends: I bought a new set (Protex TE125). These have a nylex nut instead of the castled nut. The tapered end needs to be force into the knuckle before enough thread can come through for the nut to grab and pull it tight. Well I thought I had it through but when I tightened it I stripped the thread off the nut. Now is there a better way (I did try tapping with a mallet) Or is there a better brand (Aus location) with a longer threaded section?
kind regards
Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 9, 2022 7:58:51 GMT
Thanks Chris, They're really clear pics! Good point - I don't see a fuel filter and filters work. (I wonder if a Green LED would do the job? Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 8, 2022 14:20:49 GMT
The closer you look at anything the more sceptical you become. From killing 99.9% of Covid to Diesel-gate. I'm not sure how the thing is supposed to work, but it looks complicated enough to do something. Its not as bad as the "water purifiers" which can be used to improve economy of diesel lorry engines. Still I think I can hear Queen coming through on the radio, "its a kinda magic..."
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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 8, 2022 3:18:24 GMT
Thanks Chris, That explains why there nothing about it in the Leyland manual. I'll put it back in for now (sans the magnet). At least it didn't say all the guff, "by the power of science and molecules..."
One thing you may be able to help with is - When I was fiddling about at fitting the carby back on I took off the big throttle return spring and promptly forgot how/where it goes (and the pics I took didn't show it.) Would you have a pic or diagram? Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jun 7, 2022 13:33:41 GMT
ImageHi Guys Im finally getting things back together again I was cleaning up parts and I noticed that the magnet in the pressure regulator had come loose. I took the magnet out as I didnt want it moving around and thought I could put a stronger magnet on the outside of the glass bowl. I'm not sure if these are OEM parts or an aftermarket goodie but if it aid with preventing vapour lock that cant be bad. Thoughts?
Best regards Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Aug 3, 2021 3:01:48 GMT
Thank you Chris
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Post by paddymk2 on Aug 2, 2021 13:13:06 GMT
So had to pull the carpet back at the footwell (when changing the steering rack). But now I cant push the carpet back into place at the sides at the front. Is there an easy way to remove the little trim panels (like miniature door cards), without breaking? PaddyCarpetcheers Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 27, 2021 3:13:09 GMT
Thanks for all that info The pictures opened up (maybe the other PC)
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 23, 2021 3:23:35 GMT
Check strap should fit in the corner of the door: Landcrab doors by Penguin 45, on Flickr There's a slot in there for it to run through. As for the sagging; the hinges give you in-and-out and up-and-down adjustment. If they're not square to the door aperture bending is your only option, as Tony says. Thanks Chris, (pics wouldn't open for me.) I don't think the doors are that bad - just a wee bit annoying - shouting at the passenger "be careful" also works! Are the straps real BMC parts or just a home-made solution (which is okay too)? I mean should the limit arms work? They don't seem to be positive enough to hold the door in position. Paddy Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 23, 2021 3:17:08 GMT
I don’t know about yours, but mine has limit arms that prevent too much swing. if the doors have dropped the production line method was a hefty length of wood and lever the bottom edge of the door upwards with door partially open, inner end of wood on cill. yep seen it done on Maxis when I worked near the 14 floor at Pressed Steel ! Tony S Hi Tony, Thanks for the suggestion. Did you mean to loosen the hinges, lever the doors up with wooden post, and then re-tighten the hinges? I'm not sure why the limit arms don't function properly, it may need tightening. Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Jul 16, 2021 8:07:14 GMT
Hi All, Both front doors suffer from wanting to fall forward and dent the edge of the wing. Also the drivers side requires a bit of a slam to close it. I've previously adjusted the locks - but is there anything I should do with the hinge assembly to fix properly? (I did notice a few people's cars with little leather safety straps to stop the door from over opening.)
All the best! Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 5, 2021 22:39:42 GMT
Thanks guys that is great. Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 5, 2021 3:44:59 GMT
Thanks so much for all the advice! Now that link didn't want to open - came up with Bad Link warnings (they're going to steal all your data!) Did you have the name of that company - so I can google separately? (I'm hopeful the local man here will have the bush.) On the tab that you were bending back was that the one in pics TAB 1 or TAB 2 or both? Best regards Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on May 3, 2021 2:40:15 GMT
Hi Guys,
(So while the engine and I’ve got the time), I’m tackling the bumpy steering.
I’ve been following the manual as closely as I can. And I'm assuming I'll find a worn felt or polymer bushing when I get that far.
I’ve got the rack off the car, removed the tie-rod ends and the boots and removed the pinion etc.
I’m a bit stuck at the inner tie rods.
The (Orange) BMC manual states as below.
“Use the Service Tools 18G 1030 to unlock and dismantle
the steering rack ball joints
Punch the indentations in the locknut clear of the slots
in the ball housing. Slacken back the locknut and unscrew
the housing to release the tie-rod, ball seat and seat tension…”
Is this the right sequence – should I be prizing up the indents before I try to unscrew the lock nuts?
And in the event that I have nothing like the Service Tools mentioned - is there something better than grips to use?
I also had a look at John Twist’s Youtube video on MGB inner tie-rods, (he refers to the special tools, but then attacks it with FIRST a punch to prize open the tabs on the lock-nuts and THEN twists it off with a pair of grips.)
Your advice is always appreciated! Paddy
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Post by paddymk2 on Apr 30, 2021 7:40:20 GMT
The site is so valuable and you support is first class. Thanks guys! Paddy
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